I've purchased all the components to rebuild the front end on my series 3 with the intent that I was going to have a mechanic do the work. Unfortunately I have continued to be strung along and not able to get the work done. I'm considering attempting to tackle the project myself. I did purchase an engine support bar to hold the engine so i could remove the front sub frame. I do own jacks tands but where the jacking points are on the car there is a bolt like piece. Is there a certain adapter I have to get for my stands to be able to raise my car at those points? Thanks

 

I will offer you my opinion and practice, but this is a very personal and judgemental issue.

I don't believe there should be steel-on-steel for any support when the shape of the support (jack stand) and the piece being supported do not come together as a fitted joint. Example: U-shape or bracket shape of all good jack stands should cradle/support the load so that the two cannot slip out of position. I use a piece of wood, usually plywood, in between the stand and load. It will deform/shape slightly to both and is not nearly as "slippery" as steel-on-steel. In the case of the Jaguar jacking points, I drilled a hole into a piece of 3/4" plywood to accept the jacking point stud and sized it to fit in the cradle of the jack stand. A "shake test" showed it to be very stable and the car stayed on those 4 stands for well over a year through the removal/install of the IRS, paint, interior work, front suspension rebuild, glass removal/install, sunroof work, fuel tank(s) work, renew under coating, etc.

Again, this is my opinion and practice, your mileage may differ. Just be safe.

Dave

 

Thank you for the information Dave! I know everyone has an opinion and I do my best to sort fact from fiction.... The proof is in the pudding though! You cant argue with the picture! Thanks again.

 

the front jacking points are almost exactly under the front doors where it meets with the front fender.

the rear ones are almost exactly under the rear doors where the door meets with the rear fender.

the jacking points have a quarter size Pin that enters a hole in the top of the jack's swiveling or pivoting bracket so the jack bracket doesn't move or slip from the jacking point.

If you are going to raise the front of the car, and keep it raised for days, support it safely:

1) get a second jack and position both jacks under the front jacking point pins and then raise both jacks until car is leveled.

2) use a hydraulic jack at the center under the front suspension member to relax the weight on the tire jacks, unless you are completely removing the front suspension from under the car.

3) add two or more jackstands ahead of the tire jacks where the car will be fully supported in case the tire jacks fail. These cars weigh 3,800 lbs.

Dave's advice is excellent if not using two tire jacks. The Pin needs to engage with the bracket hole for security.

By tire jacks i mean the jack used for changing a flat tire.

 

I too use wood blocks with a 1" hole between the front jacking point posts and the jack stands. Just put your floor jack under the front cross beam (a piece of 2x4 between the jack and beam), Jack up the front of the car and place the jack stands with wood blocks on the posts. Then let the floor jack down so the car is resting on the stands. Then give it a good shake test and finnaly put another pair of jack stands behind the first ones just as a safety back-up.

Jeff

 

Just to add, Be Sure you have your engine Fully supported BEFORE you start removing crossmember attachments. Otherwise, you could have a near disaster. Especially, as I have seen once, if you happen to be under the engine at the time.

No one was injured, but it scared the H*** out of everyone in the shop when that last nut let go. Didn't do the fan shroud a bit of good either.
(';')