Rear Main Seal
#1
#2
Not only must the engine come out, so must the crankshaft.
I have done one, and it is quite straightforward with the engine out and on an engine stand. It would be truly awful to do in situ, almost impossible IMHO. Once installed into the two housings, the seal should really be sized using the sizing tool, but another way is to put a turn of masking tape on the crankshaft where the seal runs, lubricate with plenty of grease, reassemble and turn the crank a few times, then dismantle again to take the tape off. OK, its time consuming, but if you can't get hold of the tool, a reasonable workround. There is an alternative split lip-type seal, but machining of the crank is needed to remove the scrolling where the seal runs. However you do it, when finished with the crank back in, but no conrods connected, the crank must rotate reasonably easily. If it doesnt turn without much effort, the seal will overheat the crankshaft, melt the rear main bearing and.....end of engine !
I have done one, and it is quite straightforward with the engine out and on an engine stand. It would be truly awful to do in situ, almost impossible IMHO. Once installed into the two housings, the seal should really be sized using the sizing tool, but another way is to put a turn of masking tape on the crankshaft where the seal runs, lubricate with plenty of grease, reassemble and turn the crank a few times, then dismantle again to take the tape off. OK, its time consuming, but if you can't get hold of the tool, a reasonable workround. There is an alternative split lip-type seal, but machining of the crank is needed to remove the scrolling where the seal runs. However you do it, when finished with the crank back in, but no conrods connected, the crank must rotate reasonably easily. If it doesnt turn without much effort, the seal will overheat the crankshaft, melt the rear main bearing and.....end of engine !
The following users liked this post:
brianbill (10-22-2012)
#4
I have heard of people using this old trick tool (sneaky pete).
I have never done this but I know it can work.
Find a really old Chevy mechanic that has done this and ask for help/advise.
Lisle LIS27000 Sneak Pete - Rear Main Seal Remover/Installer Kit | Heavy Duty Truck
bob gauff
I have never done this but I know it can work.
Find a really old Chevy mechanic that has done this and ask for help/advise.
Lisle LIS27000 Sneak Pete - Rear Main Seal Remover/Installer Kit | Heavy Duty Truck
bob gauff
The following users liked this post:
brianbill (10-22-2012)
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,822
Received 10,871 Likes
on
7,150 Posts
The following users liked this post:
brianbill (10-22-2012)
#6
This must be barrels of fun, especially for anyone working flatrate:
...Refit the crank, seal housing, front and rear main cap to the block, then rotate the crank 300-400 times.(ed. by hand)
Last edited by plums; 10-22-2012 at 10:38 PM.
#7
Might as well rebuild the engine while it is out of the car! I cleaned crankcase breather on the 1987 XJ, it helped but not much. The engine has 230 km on it and came out of an 85 runs ok . I will try sneeaky pete probably next spring when i have time and post results. This car will eventually end up being my parts store to keep my 1983 xj purring. Thanks for the advice!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
34by151
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
4
09-06-2015 05:14 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)