Both Rear windows on my 1986 Jaguar suddenly stopped working. I reached across to the rear seat (passenger side) and pressed the (rear) window switch (passenger side ) and the window began to lower. When I attempted to raise it back up, neither the switch in the (front) or rear switch would raise it back up. Both the front windows Drivers side and Passenger side work fine. The (rear) window drivers side does not operate with either the front or rear switch.
I have voltage to all of my switches, and made sure all my connections were good.
So now I have a rear passenger side window 1/2 way down and I live in Florida. I taped off the 1/2 opened window to prevent water from getting in.
Any thoughts. I think my rear window motors are good, as they were working last time I checked, and for both to not work at the same time leads me to believe it is something else.
If someone could direct me on how to get the rear window back up would be a great help
Thanks in Advance

 

Dirty contacts inside the switches are such a problem that, personally, I wouldn't bother with any other checking until you disassemble and clean the switches.

That said, typically the rear windows don't see much use so the mechanisms can get stiff....to the point of sopping entirely....especially if the switches are not carrying the amperage they should. Clean and lubricate....and treat the felt run channels to some aerosol silicone lube with you're at it

Cheers
DD

 

most likely oxidated switches. Happens overnight in Florida, not just to Jags.

to close the open window, remove one of the switches that work and use it to operate that open window. The 7 windows and sunroof switches are all the same.

then remove the bad ones one by one, and clean the brass parts inside.

The rocker part of the switch must be pried off using two miniature screwdrivers, or small knifes.

there are two moving brass legs at the inside bottom. They pivot at the center like a see-saw.

the rocker part has two springs and two pins at the center that move the brass legs one way or the other, so the switch reacts UP or DOWN.

clean the round contacts at the bottom floor of the case, then clean the legs. You can add a little Dielectric grease sold at Autozone in "ketchup" style packets. Just a little using a small paint brush or a Q-tip.

 

Correct advice from both Doug and Jose...but to clarify, make sure that you clean all the switches, not just the rear window switches. 99.9% of window issues in the Series III cars are caused by corrosion in the switches, even if they are rarely used. The switches should be gently dismantled by spreading the sides to allow the rocker to come out. Take note of the placement of the copper strip. Very easy once you have done one!

Access to the switches requires removal of the centre armrest (2 screws), removal of the plastic cubby insert (a number of small black screws), and removal of the female latch part. To do this, gently lever the front and rear, NOT the sides, of the latch. Once this is out there is only the single screw holding the switch panel tightly to the console. Pull the switch connectors straight back to release them from the switches and do/clean one switch at a time so that you do not confuse the connectors. On replacement, make sure the connector is fully and correctly placed on the switch. Once you have done this process the windows will operate properly for the NEXT 25 years.

 

I think Gregory means the center console armrest's chromed Hinge and Stay bracket must be removed along with the 6 black screws holding the plastic Tray. Then the front center Catch of the armrest must be pulled out to be able to pry out the plastic tray. Careful, those plastic trays are brittle and break easily.
Who knows what you will find under the tray. A stack of $100. dollar bills? a diamond ring a gun? In my car I found a neat flashlight the first time I removed the tray.

now you have access to the back of the switches where you pull the wiring plugs off each switch.

Each switch has Tabs on top and bottom sides of switch case. Push them in towards the switch case to release each switch from its hole.

The Rear section of the Center console is held by two chromed screws and washers. There are two welded Pins at the front top, lift the section UP after removing the chromed screws to release the pins and to have access under it. Same plugs same switches.
*if the car is a Vanden Plas it will have another cigar lighter, another chromed ashtray, and more wiring.

 

When the back windows suddenly stop working in my car it's because I have inadvertently hit that extra switch above the sunroof switch...

 

the "valet" switch. Also known as the "child proof" switch and "Master" switch.

but that switch also defeats the front windows and the sunroof, all switches are OFF, not just the two rears.

 

Doug,
I followed the advice of yours and others, and took out all 6 window switches, took them apart and thoroughly cleaned the contacts and afterwards applied a little dielectric grease as Jose suggested. As before my 2 front windows and sunroof works, nothing on the 2 back windows.
My next step was going to remove my rear driver side door panel, and try to get power to the motor and treat the felt run channels as you suggested.
Problem is, I am not sure how to get the rear door trim off. Is their a screw hidden somewhere. My front door trim came off easy enough, I pulled back on the plastic tabs around the edges but cant seem to figure if I am missing someting
Thanks
Jim

 

Jose,
Thanks for your input I cleaned all the switches, your instructions were easy and exact. As I replied to Doug, No Luck I asked him to instruct me how to remove the rear door so I could try to see if the motor was bad, which I find strange that both would go at the same time. The Switches (after being cleaned are like brand new (Almost)
Thanks for your response and help
Jim

 

Did you find the one behind the ashtray?

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Jim,
The arm rests/pulls on the rear doors have to be removed separately before the door panel can be removed. Aside from the screws along the bottom of the panel, there are one or two under the arm rest shelf. The part that I didn't find intuitive was actually removing the arm rest. Both ends of it are in opposing slotted holes in the steel door panel and if I remember correctly, the front of the arm rest has to be lifted straight up about 1/2"-3/4" and then the whole arm rest has to be pulled straight back the same amount. When that's done the arm rest just pulls straight out of the door. A shop manual is really handy in situations like this.

The motor wires in the doors are routed in very close proximity to the window lift arms and the window. The wires might have gotten snagged and a bullet connector pulled apart, wouldn't explain both windows going south at the same time though.

I had a similar issue when I was going through all of my doors. The power for the rear windows is passed along through the front window switches, a daisy-chain setup. What I found when my rear windows wouldn't operate was that the female terminals (just loops of brass embedded in the plastic wire connector) had opened up due to, who knows, and the switch pins were not making good contact. I used a very small, thin screw driver to slide in between the loop and its plastic hole to nudge the end of the loop a little tighter. Problem solved!

Good luck

Dave

 

Jim,
have you physically checked the wiring plugs at the two rear switches?

are they correctly connected to the switches? It is easy to push the plugs onto the switches missing one or two contacts.

Since you said "suddenly stopped working", were you working on something else before this happened?

 

Doug
I successfully removed the driver side rear door panel. Another Senior member responded (LT1 jaguar), and after my seeing the two screws underneath the arm rest, he spoke about, and prying down a little on the rear ash tray, I saw the retaining screw you referred to. I followed LT1,s lifting technique and it cam off fine.
I am going to try and figure out what is up with the connectors / Lift motor
Thanks Again
Jim

 

LT1 jaguar.
Thank you, Doug also told me about the retaining screw behind the ashtray, and you pointing out the two screws and the lifting technique to get the door off, were exact
Thanks Jim
Now I am going to try and figure out (If I can) whats up with the motor

 

Sorry about the double post

 

Thanks Greg, I did as you suggested, at least the cleaning of all my switches will ensure this is not the issue.
My problem lies elsewhere and I continue to look at some other suggestions
Thanks
Jim

 

Jose,
I was able to go thru and clean all 6 switches on the front driver console, I am trying to figure out how to get to the two rear window switches.
Is there an easy way for me to get to those switches and their connectors
Thanks
Jim

 

Look at post #5 in this thread where Jose outlines in the last paragraph how to remove the end-cap of the console that houses the R/R window switches. The rear seat HVAC tubes running through the console will make it difficult to get a hand on the back of the switches through the cubby hole.

Dave

 

yes Jim, it is a lot easier to deal with the rear seat switches.

the rear end section of the console is removable, remove the two screws, one on each side, and then lift the console section to free two pins located at the top front.

then you can pull the wiring plugs and remove the switches.

 

Sweet Jesus or should I say Sweet Jose.

Jose
Once again your instructions were spot on. Earlier I had removed the (2) screws but I did not realize you had to lift hard on the rear console cover which rotated on the pins you described. I removed the (2) rear window switches, cleaned them up similar to the others. I got the right window to operate and the left window switch still not work, I removed the rear driver side switch one more time, gave it a better scrub, and now all windows are working.
Bottom line, as you and others remarked clean all the switches to include the two in the rear. It appears those contacts in the rear were the main culprit.

Bring on the rain, and thanks to all you Senior and other members for the helpful ideas on solving this problem.
with much gratitude to you, Doug, LT1 and others my windows will no longer be an issue due to dirty contacts
Jim