Rebuilding a Series 1 rear end
#41
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Phil, please do keep up this thread. I love the quality of your work.
As per someone above, those triple carbs look amazing. I hope as you dial in the engine you'll start a new thread with your insights. Maybe you'll give us an audio file of how the engine sounds with those three carbs when the time comes?
As per someone above, those triple carbs look amazing. I hope as you dial in the engine you'll start a new thread with your insights. Maybe you'll give us an audio file of how the engine sounds with those three carbs when the time comes?
#42
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since everyone here is focussed on the rear subframe anyways ...
I need to transport one of these in the trunk of a X308 this week.
Please check out this plan:
a) undo the halfshafts at the differential
b) remove front mounting plate
c) remove bottom mounting plate
d) loosen inner pivots of lower wishbones
e) swing lower wishbones up like the wings on a aircraft carrier plane
letting the halfshafts and hubs go inwards whichever way works
f) lay on surface of the differential back cover in trunk
The idea behind swinging the wishbones + halfshafts in is to make the assembly
narrow enough to fit the trunk. I would break it down further, but the seller is
not really interested in having me squat there.
Is this going to work?
What is the distance between the companion flange and the back of the differential.
This represents the max height in the trunk when it is rolled over on the cover.
I need to transport one of these in the trunk of a X308 this week.
Please check out this plan:
a) undo the halfshafts at the differential
b) remove front mounting plate
c) remove bottom mounting plate
d) loosen inner pivots of lower wishbones
e) swing lower wishbones up like the wings on a aircraft carrier plane
letting the halfshafts and hubs go inwards whichever way works
f) lay on surface of the differential back cover in trunk
The idea behind swinging the wishbones + halfshafts in is to make the assembly
narrow enough to fit the trunk. I would break it down further, but the seller is
not really interested in having me squat there.
Is this going to work?
What is the distance between the companion flange and the back of the differential.
This represents the max height in the trunk when it is rolled over on the cover.
#43
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Hope the thread continues to be useful. I am hoping that I can finish this rebuild by New Year's , given my track record it will be late January :-(
#44
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You have a shed and a hoist! Two things I don't have the luxury of at home, just a double garage attached to the house.
Forgot you southerners have to have your car checked every year(6 months in NSW). I bought a car in 1997 with a RWC, the next one it got was when I sold it 8 weeks ago. Just drive it till it stops in Qld.
Love the triple SU's on your donor motor. And the little "Triple J" on your rear screen.
Attachment 101402
Keep us informed of the progress.
Forgot you southerners have to have your car checked every year(6 months in NSW). I bought a car in 1997 with a RWC, the next one it got was when I sold it 8 weeks ago. Just drive it till it stops in Qld.
Love the triple SU's on your donor motor. And the little "Triple J" on your rear screen.
Attachment 101402
Keep us informed of the progress.
1. They don't get enough use as I have to go to work to feed my habit.
2. Other vehicles apart from the Oil Beast have to be given a turn
3. Never big enough (either of them)
That's about it for the downside :-)
Rego check is a hassle I agree, lived in Qld for 15 years and didn't miss them a bit. Having 5 cars to be done a year is a pain.(2 x daughters, 1 x wife, 1 x ute, 1 x Oil Beast.)
Yep those SUs look the goods. I am impatient to get my hands on them. I guess one thing at a time though :-(
#45
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Phil, please do keep up this thread. I love the quality of your work.
As per someone above, those triple carbs look amazing. I hope as you dial in the engine you'll start a new thread with your insights. Maybe you'll give us an audio file of how the engine sounds with those three carbs when the time comes?
As per someone above, those triple carbs look amazing. I hope as you dial in the engine you'll start a new thread with your insights. Maybe you'll give us an audio file of how the engine sounds with those three carbs when the time comes?
Then yes...a new thread for the engine rebuild with a carbie rebuild if required.
As for the quality of my work...I guess having the luxury of time means that my slow, methodical approach allows quality (to a degree) to be built in. Thanks for the thoughts :-)
Last edited by philg64; 12-02-2014 at 03:56 PM. Reason: poor spelling
#46
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There are a couple of issues with having a shed and a hoist;
1. They don't get enough use as I have to go to work to feed my habit.
2. Other vehicles apart from the Oil Beast have to be given a turn
3. Never big enough (either of them)
That's about it for the downside :-)
:-(
1. They don't get enough use as I have to go to work to feed my habit.
2. Other vehicles apart from the Oil Beast have to be given a turn
3. Never big enough (either of them)
That's about it for the downside :-)
:-(
2.Tell me about it, her Mazda 3. Fireball and my Jeep, daughters Jazz and a stray Vectra.(and bikes..)
3.I could have a multi level car park and not have enough room if finances allowed.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...17/#post928571
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Last edited by o1xjr; 12-03-2014 at 04:50 AM.
#47
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here's a sample page of irs assembly instructions
Final IRS assembly -- setting hub and fulcrum shaft pre-load!! - Restorations and Projects by any description - The Garage Gazette
here's the index page to find the related articles
It's Got a Jaguar Thread. Or two. (The Index!) - Restorations and Projects by any description - The Garage Gazette
Final IRS assembly -- setting hub and fulcrum shaft pre-load!! - Restorations and Projects by any description - The Garage Gazette
here's the index page to find the related articles
It's Got a Jaguar Thread. Or two. (The Index!) - Restorations and Projects by any description - The Garage Gazette
#48
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A few months back I purchased new GAZ shocks for my rebuild, prior to that I purchased a set of polyurethane bushes to replace the existing rubbers bushes on the original shocks.
As you can see the GAZ springs came complete with metallastic rubber bushes.
So..my dilemma is - do I replace the rubber with the polyurethane bushes or will it be a waste of time and effort?
Would be appreciated if anyone has had the same dilemma and what did you do and why?
Phil
As you can see the GAZ springs came complete with metallastic rubber bushes.
So..my dilemma is - do I replace the rubber with the polyurethane bushes or will it be a waste of time and effort?
Would be appreciated if anyone has had the same dilemma and what did you do and why?
Phil
You watch - now someone will come out and tell me it was the worst thing to do
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#49
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You know what? building a Jag ear-end goes on the backburner when other things become more presssing. Currently owner-building a Granny Flat in the backyard for my mother (well the plans are now in with council but I have been preparing the site and building a retaining wall - see the pics).
BUT..with the warmer weather and a bit more daylight I plan to get back on the car tools and finish the rear-end ASAP.
BUT..with the warmer weather and a bit more daylight I plan to get back on the car tools and finish the rear-end ASAP.
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o1xjr (09-14-2015)
#51
#52
#53
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I am now searching for someone to strip the rear suspension carrier and maybe powder coat or some other system of protection so I can start putting things back together again.
I plan on updating the front suspension springs and shocks as the rest was rebuilt a while ago with polyurethane bushes, new wheel bearings, rebuilt steering rack, new tie rods etc etc.
The new springs are lowered 30mm as per the rears i.e. both front and rear are King springs. I also have Gaz front shocks that match the rears.
The plan is, once the rear has been replaced to simply replace the springs and shocks at the front Hopefully I can document that as well..
Last edited by philg64; 09-23-2015 at 06:34 AM. Reason: Spelling
#54
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#56
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#57
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Yes, definitely a reasonable hit. Doing about 70ks an hour following a car that swerved into another lane to avoid. But she had a car next to her and a wall on the other side so didn't have anytime to stop or avoid. Luckily she didn't panic in traffic as it could have been worse.
She had to drive about a kilometre before a safety area, so who knows what lies inside? Have lodged a claim with insurance company.
At present getting a quote from the mechanics, with the car not being worth much, I expect written off. The mechanic can't guarantee replacing the sump and then filling up with oil is all that is needed. The cost of a pulldown and inspect would cost more than a replacement engine. So the quote for repair will be for an replacement engine.
She had to drive about a kilometre before a safety area, so who knows what lies inside? Have lodged a claim with insurance company.
At present getting a quote from the mechanics, with the car not being worth much, I expect written off. The mechanic can't guarantee replacing the sump and then filling up with oil is all that is needed. The cost of a pulldown and inspect would cost more than a replacement engine. So the quote for repair will be for an replacement engine.
#58
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Yes, definitely a reasonable hit. Doing about 70ks an hour following a car that swerved into another lane to avoid. But she had a car next to her and a wall on the other side so didn't have anytime to stop or avoid. Luckily she didn't panic in traffic as it could have been worse. ...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...hazard-150636/
Good for her keeping her head!
I hope it all works out for you, and soon.
(';')
#59
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Having some days off at Christmas has seen me in the shed tidying up a few bits and pieces.
1. Stripped the paint and the loose surface rust off the rear crossmember (crossbeam or cage - depending on what you like to call it)
2. Used Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel (in black) to prime the surface using a brush making sure I got into all the nooks and crannies (this stage I forgot to take photos). Basically used the Killrust as my base protective coat.
3. I then used a rattle can of grey primer - 2 reasons really, the first to ensure there that there is coverage on all the metal and secondly I plan on using a gloss black rattle can to finish it all off.
the pics you see are before stripping, after stripping and after the grey primer (remembering there is a Killrust black epoxy enamel under it.
Maybe tomorrow I will get to finish with the gloss black rattle can.
1. Stripped the paint and the loose surface rust off the rear crossmember (crossbeam or cage - depending on what you like to call it)
2. Used Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel (in black) to prime the surface using a brush making sure I got into all the nooks and crannies (this stage I forgot to take photos). Basically used the Killrust as my base protective coat.
3. I then used a rattle can of grey primer - 2 reasons really, the first to ensure there that there is coverage on all the metal and secondly I plan on using a gloss black rattle can to finish it all off.
the pics you see are before stripping, after stripping and after the grey primer (remembering there is a Killrust black epoxy enamel under it.
Maybe tomorrow I will get to finish with the gloss black rattle can.
Last edited by philg64; 01-03-2016 at 04:35 AM. Reason: stupid grammar