removing discs, brake pads s2
#1
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Hi navigating the interesting jag disc/caliper set up for the first time, looks like ill have to disconnect brake lines to swap discs and pads, with associated bleeding of brakes. Is this what other forum members have encountered? And why do they have the double bolt set up with the hub and disc? Never seen that.
#2
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Front or rear?
For the front I don't think you have to disconnect the flexible hose. It should be possible to remove the caliper with it still attached and then suspend it in a way that doesn't stress the hose. But if the car is new to you, bleeding the brakes is probably a good idea anyway. The front brake disks are mounted inboard of the hub. You'll need to remove the hub and bearings to get the disk off. Should be ok to reassemble the bearings, just make sure they don't get dirt in them while they're out. This is a good time to repack them with new grease.
For the rear, it is possible to remove the disks with the rear suspension in the car, but its not easy. Far easier to remove the whole rear cage as a unit and work on it separately.
For the front I don't think you have to disconnect the flexible hose. It should be possible to remove the caliper with it still attached and then suspend it in a way that doesn't stress the hose. But if the car is new to you, bleeding the brakes is probably a good idea anyway. The front brake disks are mounted inboard of the hub. You'll need to remove the hub and bearings to get the disk off. Should be ok to reassemble the bearings, just make sure they don't get dirt in them while they're out. This is a good time to repack them with new grease.
For the rear, it is possible to remove the disks with the rear suspension in the car, but its not easy. Far easier to remove the whole rear cage as a unit and work on it separately.
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Greg in France (12-30-2023)
#3
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#5
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Agreed, both flex are waaaaay past their use by date, and bleeding the brakes at pad change is just a given.
NEVER EVER push the piistons back without cracking that bleed nipple. Any trash, and there will be trash, in the caliper fluid that gets to the Master will ruin your day.
Fluid has a 2 year life.
Hang that caliper from the upper wishbone, opened coat hanger is good.
Why with the bolts, Its a Jag, we dont ask, it is what it is, and works better than any other car. Have a beer instead.
Pay attention to any steering arm shims that MAY be on that lower bolt.
Read the attached to get your head accustomed to the system. Its a simple system really.
NEVER EVER push the piistons back without cracking that bleed nipple. Any trash, and there will be trash, in the caliper fluid that gets to the Master will ruin your day.
Fluid has a 2 year life.
Hang that caliper from the upper wishbone, opened coat hanger is good.
Why with the bolts, Its a Jag, we dont ask, it is what it is, and works better than any other car. Have a beer instead.
Pay attention to any steering arm shims that MAY be on that lower bolt.
Read the attached to get your head accustomed to the system. Its a simple system really.
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Excalibur2012 (01-03-2024),
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Excalibur2012 (01-03-2024)
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#10
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Cheers. Looks like new wheel bearings required had to destroy the inner bearing to get it off. Lucky it wasnt fused done that before.So new wheel bearings new pads new discs, new sachs shocks, new flex brake lines she wont know herself, and I havent started on the back end yet hopefully just a handbrake adjust and the brake bleed....oh by the way I undid the steel pipe to the caliper and it fell on my foot ouch!! Heavy buggers.
Im leaving the blue lowered springs in front and rear at this point they will go at a later date...researching rear shocks not much to choose from unless you own an e-type. Woodhead or adjustable gaz sound good. Springs from sng barrett.....
Im leaving the blue lowered springs in front and rear at this point they will go at a later date...researching rear shocks not much to choose from unless you own an e-type. Woodhead or adjustable gaz sound good. Springs from sng barrett.....
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