Replacing brake pads and rotors
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Within this past year I found and saved an article written by Dick Maury at Coventry West Inc., (I have no idea when) entitled,
<Quote>
REMOVING CALIPERS WITHOUT DROPPING CAGE
"There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on replacing rear calipers. As a line mechanic of 30 years, we only charged 1 hour per caliper. It usually did not take an hour.
Just remove the handbrake cable, unscrew the two handbrake bolts ( you will have to pry back the lockplates) and push the handbrakes up on top of the rotor. Unscrew the brake line, bend it slightly out of the way and plug it with a rubber plug. Using a long 5/8 wrench open end from the bottom, loosen the lower bolt.
Using the box end, loosen the top. From here a set of short wrenches come in handy to loosen the bolts. If you are lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with your fingers. Once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper but the whole caliper is lifted out.
Replacement is reverse except a long screwdriver to hold the bolts in place until started helps. Make sure the handbrake screws are through the handbrake. Removing them and putting a small taper on them helps.
If the rotors need changing, do this while the calipers are out. Remove one shock to gain access to the 4 axle bolts.
Remove the lower trunion grease fitting and the trailing arm front mount. Lower the arm down, axle,trailing arm and hub as a unit. Then the disc can be taken out. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were unless you need to adjust camber.
The holes mentioned on the rotors are for access to the caliper bolts on the ''Dana'' diffs which were put in the XJS for part of the 1985 model year. They redundant on the Salisbury diffs.
Note that the bottom plate does not have to be removed. It will be dented slightly when the lower arm is swung down but can be easily be tapped back into place. I have found on working on cars that if you remove a bolt, you will need to put it back so I try to keep it to a minimum."
--
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept., Coventry West, Inc.
Lithonia, GA, United States
</Quote>
I plan to try this when I get to my rear brakes, just to see if I can, because I haven't had enough challenge with all my other projects.
(';')
<Quote>
REMOVING CALIPERS WITHOUT DROPPING CAGE
"There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on replacing rear calipers. As a line mechanic of 30 years, we only charged 1 hour per caliper. It usually did not take an hour.
Just remove the handbrake cable, unscrew the two handbrake bolts ( you will have to pry back the lockplates) and push the handbrakes up on top of the rotor. Unscrew the brake line, bend it slightly out of the way and plug it with a rubber plug. Using a long 5/8 wrench open end from the bottom, loosen the lower bolt.
Using the box end, loosen the top. From here a set of short wrenches come in handy to loosen the bolts. If you are lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with your fingers. Once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper but the whole caliper is lifted out.
Replacement is reverse except a long screwdriver to hold the bolts in place until started helps. Make sure the handbrake screws are through the handbrake. Removing them and putting a small taper on them helps.
If the rotors need changing, do this while the calipers are out. Remove one shock to gain access to the 4 axle bolts.
Remove the lower trunion grease fitting and the trailing arm front mount. Lower the arm down, axle,trailing arm and hub as a unit. Then the disc can be taken out. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were unless you need to adjust camber.
The holes mentioned on the rotors are for access to the caliper bolts on the ''Dana'' diffs which were put in the XJS for part of the 1985 model year. They redundant on the Salisbury diffs.
Note that the bottom plate does not have to be removed. It will be dented slightly when the lower arm is swung down but can be easily be tapped back into place. I have found on working on cars that if you remove a bolt, you will need to put it back so I try to keep it to a minimum."
--
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept., Coventry West, Inc.
Lithonia, GA, United States
</Quote>
I plan to try this when I get to my rear brakes, just to see if I can, because I haven't had enough challenge with all my other projects.
(';')
The following 5 users liked this post by LnrB:
Bryan at Coventry West (04-03-2015),
Daf11e (04-02-2015),
geneo (04-03-2015),
Jag7651 (04-03-2015),
o1xjr (04-02-2015)
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