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Yeah, project burn out. Got a touch of it now on more than one. I've stepped back on most of them for a 'breather". Inclement weather is my "excuse".
That bearing issue: I think you mean the inner new race on your new axle stubs, huh?
You might be a victim of "machine dimensional tolerance stack up". Axle to the largest tolerable dimension and the race interior to the smallest tolerable dimension.
1. Fine instrument measure. Internal and external micrometer?
2. What are the spec's of each. More measuring.
3. I am sure you lubed the inside of the race.
4. How did the race fit the axle? Snug, tight as h... etc.
5. Sometimes, it just is.... If it went together, can be adjusted to spin freely, what else can you expect???
Some months ago, I was messing with the VW based dune buggy derelict's fron wheels. Very snug to get it back together... Another project on hold....
Yes, Carl, I greased the spindle and the inner race.
Technically, I did mean the race but as the rollers and cage are a single unit with I've always called it a bearing and race.
Here are the Fine Measurements you asked for done in triplicate:
Instruments include Lufkin, Starrett (vernier micrometers), Mitutoyo (vernier caliper) and Craftsman (telescoping gauges).
All the above mentioned instruments agree with these findings:
Spindle inner bearing surface OD (New ); 1.250 inches.
Spindle inner bearing surface (old, unworn area) OD; 1.250 inches.
Inner wheel bearing ID; 1.2475 inches, making an interference of .0025 inch. No wonder why they wouldn't go on the spindle!
As today is a national holiday and nothing is open, and when husband finally contacts Welch for the correct bearings, the delivery interval will be our break. If we take too much time off we lose focus and inertia and it's Really hard to get back on track.
I suppose we shouldn't have been surprised. After all, Nothing else on this car has been easy, simple or straight forward, Why in the World did we think such a complex thing as wheel bearings would be simple?!
(';')
Changing Front Wheel Bearings: Part 1; Changing Races.
This might be a stressful procedure for some, but it's Really simple, like everything, if you know how to start.
After you get the hub/rotor off the car, you first need to clean all that 4 pounds of old grease out of the center of the hub. This is a Really Messy job but must be done to see what you're doing when beating out the old races.
Whether you remove the inner or outer race first doesn't matter. I happened to have the inner side up as it's easier to clean because the hole is bigger, and for taking pictures.
There are 2 slots, one on each side, in the hub for knocking out the race.
This is why you need to clean out all that grease, so you can find these slots.
Then you need a long punch and a medium hammer. The punch pictured is actually a broken flex handle with the end squared off.
It's probably easier to knock out the outer race first because you have a bigger hole to work through.
After the smaller outer race is removed there is more working room to knock out the inner race. There are also 2 notches there.
The mating surfaces must be clean; free of all excess grease before the new races are installed. A small blade screwdriver with rag or towel will clean the sharp corner around the perimeter. I personally don't like to use any solvent for this because the tiny bit of grease that's left on the mating surface seems to ease beating the race into place. I merely wipe it well with a clean rag.
I like to clean both bores while I'm at it.
You don't really need dedicated drivers for wheel bearing races. However, you do need a flat machined surface. The easiest and cheapest thing is an old race that's had the perimeter ground to fit loosely in the bore. You need to check if it will in fact fit *Loosely* FIRST! (don't ask how I know)
Husband has a selection of driver races (that was news to me) so I merely chose one he's already modified.
When checking, it's easier to put the potential driver in upside down (Thick side up) for easier removal (don't ask me about that either). I like to do the outer race first because it's smaller with less chance of cocking.
My wheel bearings came in an all-inclusive kit. Notice the small grease packet. I took Only the outer races from the envelopes and left the rest of the assembly in their packages, and the lot in the box so they wouldn't get lost. I try to label parts as they arrive so that many months later I know what they're for.
After you're Sure the driver won't get stuck in the bore (how embarrassing if it does!) set the New outer race in its position *THICK SIDE DOWN*. It should sit there fine.
Then carefully set the driver race (the one you already *Know* is loose in the bore) on the new race. Some like to have the thin edges together, I'm not that coordinated. I like a larger driving surface on the new race so I put the thick side of the driver to the thin side of the race.
To ensure even driving of the race, I got one of husband's small press blocks; a brick of steel, 1 inch square and 4 inches long. I carefully set this bar across the driver, which is balanced on the new race. This is Worlds better than trying to tap the race into place round and round (I will tell you how I know that)!
Rotate the hub after every few blows to lessen the chance of cocking the race in the bore. Some cocking is inevitable unless you have a press and the correct driver but a small amount of cocking is easily corrected by beating on the high side.
When the race is properly seated your beating will change tone and sound Very solid. The race must be virtually flat with the hub. If it protrudes any noticeable amount it isn't seated. If in doubt, smack it another good one and check from the other side. You'll be able to see if there are any gaps between the race and the seat.
The inner race is a little more complicated. The bore and seat must be clean, but it's a little harder to get the race in position correctly because it's bigger and more easily cocked.
Then check the driver to be Sure it's loose in the bore.
The new inner race is positioned the same as the outer was, and the driver set, thick side to race thin side. Then the press bar was balanced over them both.
You'll need a second driver because the race seats deeper in the bore to make room the the seal. I simply got another driver from the drawer and stacked them. There's no chance of cocking by this time because the race is completely in the bore, only it's not seated. Two stacked drivers and the press bar made short work of it from here on.
Now you can understand why it's Critical that your driver be Undersized! Imagine having to fix that! How embarassing!
You can easily check for race seating by shining a light in through the outer race. It will be easy to tell if either of them isn't seated properly.
I stuffed shop towel into both sides of the hub to keep dirt out.
Changing Front Wheel Bearings: Part 2; Packing Bearings
It was hard to get a picture of the process of actually packing grease in the bearing because it takes both hands, is best done without gloves so both hands were gunky, and I didn't want to gunk up my camera. So I'll use a couple thousand words instead.
Before you do anything it's a good idea to have the rotor lying on a clean surface like a shop towel. If you drop one of these greased bearings there's less chance of disaster.
A couple weeks ago husband was over at the neighbor's while they were working on a relatively new Trooper. He said the bearing grease from the factory was much thinner and stickier than what he's used for years, plain old ordinary high temp disc brake grease; Sta-Lube.
Husband says he hasn't kept up with advances in grease technology for several years so it might be a good idea to use the included grease, because the bearing company probably wants their product to last a while (at least for the warrantee), and so probably would include the best for their bearings.
You'll want to do the inner bearing first because the grease seal will hold it in place while you work on the outer one. Husband has a set of cheapy Harbor Freight seal drivers that are fine for the hobbyist like most of us.
Be sure the seal is fully set in the bottom of its bore. It should be flush with the hub or maybe a little lower, but certainly not protruding.
I only have pictures of packing the outer bearing but the principles are the same.
Notice the small amount of grease included with the bearing kit. There is enough for the job but it is was not to be wasted!
First I cut a corner and squeezed out about a nickel sized blob (to start with) into my left palm. The bearings are a bit loose in the cages so I force the grease into the edge of the cage with a scooping action, going round and round until grease comes out around the rollers, squeezing more from the packet as needed.
Then I turn the bearing to the other side and do the same. Ideally, grease should be forced in from each side and meet in the middle. This isn't a 35 second job! It can take several minutes to get it right depending on the size of the bearing.
When grease is oozing from around all the rollers take a bit more on the end of your finger and fill in between the rollers. Here are 3 pictures of the fully packed outer bearing. I already did the inner one, inserted it in the hub and husband drove in the seal.
To get all the grease out of the packet I wrapped it around a bolt and did the toothpaste thing with it. It might not look like it, but there IS enough grease for both bearings and a tiny bit extra IF you don't waste it.
Before the inner grease seal is installed, it's a good idea to fill the rollers from the outer edge, using a small screwdriver or toothpick. This makes sure all metal surfaces are covered with grease. This is the outer bearing but the principle is the same; cover all the metal.
There was a discussion in here a while back about why there was always a pound of grease in the hub because it doesn't work its way into the bearings. Consensus was Tradition (it's Always been done this way) and inertia (no one sees any benefit but no one wants to be the first to stop).
I don't feel bound by either of these so, in a complete break with tradition I put NO grease in the hub as seen in the picture below.
Besides, there wasn't enough left after I got the bearings packed; and since they didn't supply that much, it must not be needed.
Changing Front Wheel Bearings: Part 3; Mounting The Rotors
Normally, (whatever that is) it's a simple process to mount the rotors onto the spindles. Nothing has gone Normally on this car for a Very long time. Therefore, any reader shouldn't think their car will behave like this one has.
Husband took the Left rotor, bearings packed and everything, and stuck it on the spindle. Some might remember my posting about this event earlier, and how the hub simply refused to to on. Then it wouldn't come off! He had me try a new clean bearing on the other spindle, same result.
I took careful measurements. Nothing seemed amiss.
Husband called Welch and a Very helpful man took a brand new set of bearings (different manufacture) off the shelf and measured; got the same specs as we did. So the spindle is a bit oversize? Then why does it measure the same as the old one??
Careful inspection showed a sharp square shoulder on the new spindle that wasn't sharp on the old one nor was it square, but had a bit of a ramp feature. I didn't measure that part at the time.
Husband decided to take a page from my Farmer Fix It book and do a shoe-shine routine on the spindle, ONLY the sharp shoulder area, and careful to treat the whole circumference with a HF abrasive strip, ONLY enough to round that shoulder.
WARNING!! After one does this it is Imperative to clean *Thoroughly* and get ALL the abrasive off the object! Abrasives are Way harder than steel and will eat it away Very quickly.
That procedure worked with a dry fit using the other bearing. Well Alright then! Now maybe we can go on!
As I mentioned in the post above there is a tiny bit of wheel bearing grease left over which I spread on the spindle/seal/bearing surfaces. Husband did that before while trying to fit the rotor the first time, but this time Everything slipped on as it should!
>WHEW<
There is a D-washer between the outer bearing and the nut.
The D hole is supposed to keep the washer from turning with the bearing and eventually cutting the threads off. This is the reason for almost half the threads cut away from the spindle.
I'd never seen such a rinky dink arrangement! Every wheel bearing washer I've ever known has a tang that fits a slot in the threads of the spindle.
One of Nix's washers was completely missing! The other was Very worn as you can see in the pictures below.
No Worries, we thought, the 'local' wrecking yard had just acquired another of Nix's younger siblings! That poor car, it had been hit so hard on the right front the rotor was broken! And the shock absorber rod was Seriously bent. Also the bearing cup was missing on that side, but we were only after the washers and nuts anyway so that didn't matter..
Got the washers and nuts home and cleaned up, they were too big!! Series 3 spindle washers and nuts will NOT fit Series 2 spindles.
Husband called Everyday XK and ordered a pair of nuts and washers, being sure to specify Series 2. They came a couple days later.
Finally we can put rotors on!
Wipe off any shop kooties etc from the bearing surfaces and clean the threads. Then put a small amount (remember that tiny bit of included grease I had left over? This is where it goes.) on all those surfaces to ease assembly. Pay special attention to the shoulder area as mentioned above.
Setting the rotor in place should be done with care so as not to damage the inner grease seal. You'll have to hold the outer bearing in place while you do this so it's a good idea to have at least one clean hand to hold that bearing.
The weight of the rotor and angle of the bearings will make the rotor want to slip off the spindle, throwing that nice, clean, greased up outer bearing on the floor. (I hold one knee against the rotor.) As soon as you can it's a good idea to get the washer in place and the nut started.
Castle nuts ALL, old or new, complain when bolt threads get to the notches. Don't let this worry you. Just be sure all the threads are clean to start with. A brass tooth brush thingy is a good addition to the tool drawer.
SETTING BEARINGPRE-LOAD:
It's hard to explain this exactly, because it's done by feel; it depends on how heavy the grease is, how much you used, the ambient temperature, the phase of the moon, the position of Jupiter - well not really, but it does take a bit of experience.
There are two holes in the end of the spindle for cotter pins. They are 90 degrees apart. This, along with the castle nut's 6 notches, gives Very fine adjustments.
Notice above, the Long leg of the cotter is OUT. This allows bending it correctly as seen below.
Check the fit of your cotter pins well before you need them! Those included in my kit were TOO BIG by a country mile; probably 3mm, while the holes are 1/8 inch.
The Blue Book (ROM) says: "While spinning the rotor, tighten the nut until you just begin to feel resistance, and back off one or two flats, for end play of .003-.005 inches." You can see the problem if you have heavy grease. You'll feel resistance well before you would if you used light sticky grease like I did. I think 2 flats is Way too loose, but that was written 40 years ago before thin, sticky greases of today! If you can get clunking of the rotor in and out it's too loose. There should be no clunking!
Imagine! If you can exert enough force to make the bearings clunk, what's gonna happen with your several thousand pound car taking a corner with great enthusiasm?! Imagine the hammering on S-curves!
Here's how I learned to set bearing pre-load:
Spin the rotor, giving it a good whing. Tighten the nut until the rotor slows significantly but it shouldn't come to a sudden stop. If it does, back the nut off and start again.
When I'm satisfied I have it right I back the nut off to the next notch, whichever one that is, whichever hole it is. Bend the cotter pin over as shown so it won't fall out, and cut off the excess.
I put on bearing cap, use a Large Blunt screwdriver or similar, going round and round, tapping moderately with a small hammer until it's seated all around. You can see how this cup was abused in the past by some grease monkey and a rubber (or not) hammer.
One should NEVER run a car without the bearing cup! EVER!
(';')
Never did lie that "hammer fit" of grease caps in most cars domestic and furrin.
I've done it more than a few times. But, it takes taps, not blows, as some past
character did on Nix's cap. Besmirches a good "grease monkey". In my college years, I was one. My boss/tutor would've "..........", had I or my workmates smashed a cap like that.
For Nix's sake, get a good one from David....
War story: One very Saturday afternoon, my boss packed the front wheels for a family that was going to East Texas to visit family. Some hours after they left, he had a horrible premonition that the had not replaced the Kotter keys. He called the Texas Highway patrol. Stop them and take them to the nearest repair facility for a check up.
Wahoo, found. A local station pulled the hub caps and grease caps. All was well. No charge. "Glad to be of service" by the shop that verified.
Everyone was pleased. We got a lesson in care.
Carl
NIX is getting expert detailed attention. I'm sure she will reward you.
Lots of ways of setting the front bearings. They...the bearings....are amazingly forgiving. They'd have to be quite obviously too loose or too tight to present an actual problem, IMHO. In the last few years I've been taking them right down to 'zero' ....not an iota more....and leaving them there. They seem to naturally loosen just the right amount after a bit of driving.
Good remarks on the cotter pins. I've seen some that were way too small. Though a little hard to find I like to use 'hammerlock' cotter pins as the straight side fits well against the adjusting nut. I don't use the 'hammerlock' feature....I bend them and clip them as mentioned above.
Thank you, Carl,
Sorry about the grease monkey remark, but where I grew up that was a term of disdain referring to a mechanic who didn't really know what they were doing and worthy of limited trust and small, simple tasks. I'll edit my vocabulary for the future.
This cup is actually the better one of the two. The other one was smashed almost beyond all usefulness so we got one off the most recent junker. Spindles, nuts and washers are different from Series 2 to 3 but the bearing cups are the same.
I was curious so I look at when I started this thread, almost a year ago!! She's been on jack stands since November 2 or 3, 2014!!! It would be quite discouraging except that everywhere I look on the car some massive amount of repair work has been done to it! The only thing not fooled with at all is the trunk!
Progress has been hampered by cold weather, arrival of wrong parts, the discovery of more parts needed and the time for those to arrive (that's happened more than once), nasty and expensive surprises, figuring out how to do this or that, husband's medical adventures (hopefully mostly resolved), the While I'm At It syndrome (that's nearly doubled the job), mistakes (some of them Very expensive), all of which is compounded by our work and other responsibilities and our ignorance of British engineering. Almost everything we encounter has been met with, "why in the **** did they do it that way??"
If we were doing this on a 1976 Pontiac or 1959 Bel Aire it would have been on the road 2 months ago. It wouldn't be nearly as much fun but it would be on the road.
The correct calipers finally arrived (one of those Nasty surprises) and that's been the project for a couple days. Now the weather is HOT and the shop doesn't cool off until around 9pm. That's a little late to accomplish anything so quite a lot has to be done on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, early in the day.
I'm still hoping to drive the car this season, but the hours turn into days, turn into weeks, turn into months. I simply Refuse to let them turn into Years!
(';')
Lots of ways of setting the front bearings. They...the bearings....are amazingly forgiving. They'd have to be quite obviously too loose or too tight to present an actual problem, IMHO. In the last few years I've been taking them right down to 'zero' ....not an iota more....and leaving them there. They seem to naturally loosen just the right amount after a bit of driving.
Good remarks on the cotter pins. I've seen some that were way too small. Though a little hard to find I like to use 'hammerlock' cotter pins as the straight side fits well against the adjusting nut. I don't use the 'hammerlock' feature....I bend them and clip them as mentioned above.
Cheers
DD
Thank you, Doug,
I didn't see your comment until just now. I think I was answering Carl when yours posted.
I was afraid someone might say I set bearings too tight. I know they loosen up, especially new ones like these, but Zero? I'll keep that in mind!
When I was at home, after a couple weeks on the road, they were tightened up again and then left alone.
Thank you for the cotter pin remark. I'm not familiar with hammerlock. Searching now... I've seen those! I didn't think they were anything special. I just used them like plain old ordinary cotter pins!
(';')
1. Nit pick. The rounded end of the Cotter pin should fit in the slot of the castellated nut.
Other than that, the bend back and snip is just right. But, no harm, no foul. Purposae met, the nut will stay in place.
2. I watch a weird "reality" show on TV from time to time. "Fast and Loud". Richard Rawlins and Aaron Kaufman operate the "Gas Monkey Garage" in Dallas, Texas. I suspect PC involved in the name.
Joke, a cast character, Sue, a lady of Korean origin, operates an upholstery shop.
She disdainfully refers to the as ... Monkeys. G removed and S added!!
Remove the histronics of Richard and observe the mechanical mastery of Aaron and it has value.
Gonna be hot today. But, at least one task to try on the Jaguar. New to me battery in place and charged to 100%!!
Thank you, Carl,
It was already 76F when I got up at 5am! I hit the deck running, as they say.
Start early, end early this time of year. Here it is noon and I'm finished with my work, have the cooler on in the garage, and I'll be ready to start work in the car for a few hours until the sun gets around on that West door, making it an oven.
They're promising 105F today and I have no doubt they'll deliver.
(';')
Yep, 105 is much more fun on the speedometer than the thermometer!
They underestimated; gave us 107F!! It's 'only' 99 now, 6:60pm Pacific time.
Yes, Andrew, I would Like to be doing 105, but I suppose it's good to be able to stop too. I got the front calipers on this afternoon (the correct one, *Finally*), completely plumbed with new armored hoses and everything, and the sway bar is bolted up. PS cooler too, but that will be another thread.
(';')
When you remove calipers instructions say to watch for shims and remember where they came from. This is good if you're only putting back calipers you took off for some reason. But it's quite worthless when you put on new calipers.
Here's how the Blue Book says to set up new calipers:
CORRECTION::
Husband found this procedure over in the Archives of the Jag Lovers forum. Since he was doing, it I was ignorant of that fact.
Tighten up bolts 1 and 2 as seen in the picture below. Bolt 1 holds the caliper and might be drilled for safety wire. Bolt 2 merely holds on the tin ware. DO NOT tighten bolt 3 as it's only a locator at this time.
Below is a picture of the Left caliper from below so you can see the relative position of bolt 3 and where the shims will go.
With bolts 1 & 2 tightened and torqued to 50 foot pounds and bolt 3 loose, measure the space between the arm and the caliper with a feeler gauge. Add shims equaling that space as shown below.
There are two shims on this caliper, one thick and one so thin you almost can't see it in the picture.
If the shims aren't correct, undue stresses occur on the caliper and the arm; it tries to bend things.
(';')
As I understand the role of shims in this application is to center the caliper over the rotor.
Taking sabbatical, heat as an excuse, over getting down and under some more. Another starter up in smoke???
Storm brought down a small limb off the Locust in the front yard. An attack with my small electric chain saw might help!! Fire wood? Fire places durn near banned around here? Or creative carpentry?
05-25-2015, 09:14 AM
