XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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Rolling Stock: Safety At Speed

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  #61  
Old 01-29-2015, 09:26 PM
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Husband wasn't sleeping well last night, so he ordered brake parts; Everything from calipers to hoses to shims to springs.

He calls it Retail Therapy. He always feels better after he's spent a couple hundred clams (or 600+) at Rock Auto.

More Stuff to be added to this collection of Pieces-Parts in my room and under my desk.
(';')

EDIT: I forgot to list pads!
 

Last edited by LnrB; 01-29-2015 at 10:18 PM.
  #62  
Old 02-03-2015, 03:44 PM
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Default Brake Parts Arriving!

Today a Very Heavy box arrived; it contained Nix's Calipers!
Front on the left, Rear on the right of the picture below.
Shims arrived yesterday (I'll need LOTS of help about those), pads and stuff are drop shipped from Who knows where, and will arrive when I see them.
(';')
 
Attached Thumbnails Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-nixcalipers.jpg  
  #63  
Old 02-05-2015, 11:16 PM
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Today I found a box on the front porch containing the pads, shims and hoses. All the brake parts that were ordered have now arrived.

Parts include:
Centric hoses;
150.61100 (one each)
150.20003 (two each)

Monroe pads; DX135

Shims:
Beck/Arnley 084-2026
Wagner SH1205-5
These look to be the same but there was no indication so he got both.

There are perhaps better parts out there somewhere but he bought the very best we could afford.

A Huge storm is coming ashore tomorrow; I got a reverse 911 call from the Sheriff's department advising everyone to stay off the roads for the next few days as several inches of rain is expected with high winds; downed trees and flooding in all the usual places are expected. We got gas for the light plant should we lose power.
It sounds like a good day to work on the car.
(';')
 
Attached Thumbnails Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-nixpadshosesshims.jpg  

Last edited by LnrB; 02-05-2015 at 11:19 PM.
  #64  
Old 02-06-2015, 10:03 AM
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LnrB:


Indeed, those are quality parts. They should serve you well.


We are scheduled to get a lighter version of that storm this afternoon. I was planning grocery shopping for today. But, I'll defer.


Jaguar is in the driveway on jack stands and the trolley. Next week at best.


Might mess with my non running B&S powered vacuum. I have an electronic coil conversion kit for it.


Take care with Nix up on jack stands.


Carl
 
  #65  
Old 02-06-2015, 03:00 PM
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Thank you, Carl,
Rear pads came today, they're cute! Also from Wagner (through Rock Auto), part #DX9. We may need different shims as we have Zero experience with such things.

I was looking at the back side of the LF caliper this morning while I was checking out the body construction for the jacking point. One of the piston seals is slipping out of place and one pad is a little thinner than I like. So, all in all it's probably a good thing the rear brakes leaked out all the fluid.
(';')
 
Attached Thumbnails Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-nixrearbrakepads.jpg   Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-lf-caliper-backside.jpg  
  #66  
Old 02-07-2015, 03:19 AM
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[QUOTE=LnrB;1155983 One of the piston seals is slipping out of place and one pad is a little thinner than I like. .
(';')[/QUOTE]

A little thinner? I would say almost non-existent.

Are all your parts going to get fitted this winter?
 
  #67  
Old 02-07-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by o1xjr
[...]
Are all your parts going to get fitted this winter?
I can't see how that will happen, Clarke.

Everything changed after he had surgery in November. They kept him under for too long I think. He doesn't move the same, he doesn't sound the same, he doesn't look the same, he doesn't think the same. Small tasks that should only take an hour or two take him half a day to complete if he can complete them at all before he runs out of steam.

He wants to still do stuff, especially things he knows I need help with, but he simply isn't able. So I only ask him for help when I REALLY need it.

And then there are other responsibilities I have to keep up, many of which are interrupted by doctor visits, which usually kill an entire day.

I imagine those brakes are from 1986 when the car was restored. I'm not surprised the pads are so thin (back pads are twice this thick) Brakes should be straightforward. I've done them on my truck, (of course it's a Mercan Dodge), it took an afternoon, so I think I can do those myself -- if he'll let me. If he insists on helping it will take a week.

Car stuff is car stuff, only the details are different from one make to the next. But this domestic situation I find myself in is entirely new territory and I haven't figured out how to deal with it yet.
(';')
 
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  #68  
Old 02-14-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Ugh!! Budget and old cars is a non sequitur!!!

I kept one for while during the conversion of my car. Gave it up. I was going nuts. At the time, I was working, and some of my cases included serious number crunching. I used many an EXCEL spread sheet for that.

That inner race thing has perplexed me a tad. At times, I get the idea, that it should be a firm fit and not turn at all!! Why would one want the race to spin on the spindle? That would seem to defeat the purpose of the bearing rollers and the outer race.

Now, if the seat on the spindle is so bad that the bearing's race can not sit squarely, that is a big issue.

Back in time: My T Ford used Timken roller bearings. Good stuff, no question. The inner race on the outer bearing threaded on to the spindle. No spin there.

So, is the preload on NIX's front bearings intended to seat the inner race firmly, I am not sure???

Others will opine.

Starter saga continues. Urge to hijack thread repressed!!!

Carl
Originally Posted by Hammersmith
I found the best way to deal with the rear brakes is to drop the IRS. That way, you can clean everything up, and address any issues that may arise with calipers, emergency brakes, and you can clean up your springs and replace the shocks while there. It took us 2 days to get it out, clean it up, install the parts, and get it back in. Here it is on the floor. just before we re-installed springs 3 and 4.
Originally Posted by Hammersmith
For your spindle, you do not have to drop the entire front suspension. Do the following:

1. Undo your brake caliper and hang it;
2. Undo your outer tie rod end from your steering knuckle;
3. Support the bottom control arm with a jack or jack stand;
4. Undo the upper and lower ball joints and separate them from the steering knuckle;
5. You should have the spindle and steering knuckle in your hand.

If you post a picture of the bad part of the spindle, we can look at it and see if it can be cleaned. It may be in a spot that is not going to cause issues.
Thanks, Guys,

I do So appreciate all the good advice I'm getting in this subject and also in Floor Pan; Not the, "If you don't do it my way you're Stupid!" as some have said other places in the past, which makes me Very stubborn, and if a reasonable response doesn't come soon I'll do it the "stupid" way just to prove I can. I don't react well to that sort of "help."

However, the Vast Majority of advice I've got in this forum from members with Far more experience than I have is thoughtful, kind, specific, detailed and clear.

Because of that, I'll drop the IRS. I don't like working on dirty components anyway. I'm sure it's never been down in the whole life of the car, certainly not since 1986, so who knows what surprises await discovery. Whatever they are I'm sure they'll be unpleasant; but better to discover them on the floor of my garage than up on a twisty mountain road somewhere with no cell service when I've broken something critical.

Myke:
We have all the parts for the front suspension anyway, and the steering rack is leaking oil like the Exxon Valdez; husband took the rack off the SIII we stripped in the wrecking yard in the Fall of 2013. Besides that, husband wants Everything possible changed while the car is immobilized, however long that takes.

Carl:
I agree. I've seen OLDE machinery where the bearing rides directly on the shaft but I don't think the race is supposed to spin like this one did.

I've posted a picture of my spindle below (the area of concern on the bottom between the red arrows) with a picture of the new one. It comes from Welch.
(';')
 
Attached Thumbnails Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-wornspendle.jpg   Rolling Stock:  Safety At Speed-newlf-spindle.jpg  
  #69  
Old 02-14-2015, 12:16 PM
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LnrB:


If anything I've posted seemed like a "your way is stupid" comment, I sincerely apologize. Stupid or not, and I've seen nothing you've done as stupid, even if it was, it is your absolute right to do it that way, no matter what. And, I've no right to criticize.


But, there is a huge difference between a different view and a criticism.


More than a few over my years have labeled me as "stubborn". As I was not given a middle name, I refer to my missing middle name as "persistent". Close of not absolutely synomous with stubborn.


At my last place of employment, the VP of claims did my review. All fairly well except for my stubbornness as a flaw to be corrected. I disagreed. So, we looked up the sord in a Webster's Unabridged. Of all the synonyms only one was less than complimentry. He gracefully backed down




Yipes. Huge difference between the installed spindle and the new one. Wow, that inner race has worn a groove that doesn't exist on the new unit. Frozen in that groove?? Or did the "famous PO" glue it in place in some manner to stop it from spinning. No matter, use the new one.


But, of even more concern to me is the "flat" ground on the threaded portion. a lot of important material gone!! Why? No good answer. Same comment, use the new.


Critical stuff, not to be taken lightly. And both together, yipes..... !!!


Starter in but issues remain. I refrain from hijacking the thread. a new post, mebbe.


Carl
 
  #70  
Old 02-14-2015, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
LnrB:


If anything I've posted seemed like a "your way is stupid" comment, I sincerely apologize. Stupid or not, and I've seen nothing you've done as stupid, even if it was, it is your absolute right to do it that way, no matter what. And, I've no right to criticize.
NO NO NO, CARL, YOU'VE DONE NOTHING OF THE SORT!!
That was my whole point!! This forum is NOT inhabited with such Jerks!

But, there is a huge difference between a different view and a criticism.
AGREED!! And it's not the same thing!
More than a few over my years have labeled me as "stubborn". As I was not given a middle name, I refer to my missing middle name as "persistent". Close of not absolutely synomous with stubborn.
I personally like 'tenacious.'
At my last place of employment, the VP of claims did my review. All fairly well except for my stubbornness as a flaw to be corrected. I disagreed. So, we looked up the sord in a Webster's Unabridged. Of all the synonyms only one was less than complimentry. He gracefully backed down

Yipes. Huge difference between the installed spindle and the new one. Wow, that inner race has worn a groove that doesn't exist on the new unit. Frozen in that groove?? Or did the "famous PO" glue it in place in some manner to stop it from spinning. No matter, use the new one.

But, of even more concern to me is the "flat" ground on the threaded portion. a lot of important material gone!! Why? No good answer. Same comment, use the new.
The new spindle has that same flat so it must be intentional.
Critical stuff, not to be taken lightly. And both together, yipes..... !!!

Starter in but issues remain. I refrain from hijacking the thread. a new post, mebbe.

Carl
Thank you, Carl, I have the Deepest respect and regard for you, your knowledge, your advice and the depths of your experience. And I Love how you relate those experiences.
(';')
 
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  #71  
Old 02-14-2015, 04:58 PM
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Well said, Eleanor...there is always more than one way to skin a cat...and the right way is the way that makes sense to you, with the tools and the facilities you have at your disposal. I spent a lot of years laying on my back under cars, cursing and swearing, leaving a great deal of my DNA on sharp parts of car spaces. My hoists make a lot of that cursing go away, but nonetheless, sometmes, I can still make a preacher blush when things don't go my way. Its all about the love of the car...and it doesn't matter if its got rust on it, or it needs a lot of TLC, as long as you are having fun doing it, and learning. I learn a ton every day, and when it comes to Jag's, I am certainly in full learning mode!
 
  #72  
Old 02-14-2015, 05:51 PM
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Thank you, Myke,
We all do our best.
ElinorB.
(';')
 
  #73  
Old 02-15-2015, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by LnrB
Thanks, Guys,

I do So appreciate all the good advice I'm getting in this subject and also in Floor Pan; Not the, "If you don't do it my way you're Stupid!" as some have said other places in the past, which makes me Very stubborn, and if a reasonable response doesn't come soon I'll do it the "stupid" way just to prove I can. I don't react well to that sort of "help."

However, the Vast Majority of advice I've got in this forum from members with Far more experience than I have is thoughtful, kind, specific, detailed and clear.

Because of that, I'll drop the IRS. I don't like working on dirty components anyway. I'm sure it's never been down in the whole life of the car, certainly not since 1986, so who knows what surprises await discovery. Whatever they are I'm sure they'll be unpleasant; but better to discover them on the floor of my garage than up on a twisty mountain road somewhere with no cell service when I've broken something critical.

Myke:
We have all the parts for the front suspension anyway, and the steering rack is leaking oil like the Exxon Valdez; husband took the rack off the SIII we stripped in the wrecking yard in the Fall of 2013. Besides that, husband wants Everything possible changed while the car is immobilized, however long that takes.

Carl:
I agree. I've seen OLDE machinery where the bearing rides directly on the shaft but I don't think the race is supposed to spin like this one did.

I've posted a picture of my spindle below (the area of concern on the bottom between the red arrows) with a picture of the new one. It comes from Welch.
(';')
Most of the spindles, in the mid seventies, were not machined to specification.
My front spindles were defective and actually had a factory recall.
The races were spinning so much, that the spindles were smoking the grease.
 
  #74  
Old 02-15-2015, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Giovanni LiCalsi
Most of the spindles, in the mid seventies, were not machined to specification.
My front spindles were defective and actually had a factory recall.
The races were spinning so much, that the spindles were smoking the grease.
Really!! That explains quite a lot, Giovanni, thank you.
Maybe just as well change the right one while everything's apart.
In fact, the more I think about it, the better that idea sounds! We're in it so deep now what's another $75!
(';')
 
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:26 PM
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Yup.


Done right, done once.


That flat on the threaded portion still perplexes me !! Why, to get a point to drill an accurate hole for the Cotter pin?


It just didn't ring true for a race to spin on the spindle. Cuz, it ai'nt so!.


Carl
 
  #76  
Old 02-15-2015, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
[...]
Yipes. Huge difference between the installed spindle and the new one. Wow, that inner race has worn a groove that doesn't exist on the new unit. Frozen in that groove?? Or did the "famous PO" glue it in place in some manner to stop it from spinning. No matter, use the new one.

But, of even more concern to me is the "flat" ground on the threaded portion. a lot of important material gone!! Why? No good answer. Same comment, use the new.

Critical stuff, not to be taken lightly. And both together, yipes..... !!!
[...]
Carl
Originally Posted by JagCad
Yup.

Done right, done once.

That flat on the threaded portion still perplexes me !! Why, to get a point to drill an accurate hole for the Cotter pin?

It just didn't ring true for a race to spin on the spindle. Cuz, it ai'nt so!.

Carl
It occurred to me I didn't answer all your questions earlier, Carl.

That bearing race was Not glued in place, although I wouldn't have been surprised to find that it was, considering all the other hinky things done to this car.

That was one of the things I couldn't figure out; it seemed to turn on the spindle, too freely in my opinion, but still wouldn't slip off. Of course it was all clear to me as soon as I finally succeeded getting the race off and felt the bottom of the spindle.

Those are fine threads on the end, and the flat spot is far less than half the diameter of the shaft. I've not seen anything like that, but I'm sure if it was unusual some of the people who've seen the picture would have mentioned it, rather like Giovanni posted about the spindle recall on his car.
(';')
 

Last edited by LnrB; 02-16-2015 at 09:55 AM.
  #77  
Old 02-16-2015, 02:00 AM
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Got it ! Free to spin, but not to slide off!


As to the flat, well, it seems that is intended and works, so.


If only my crank run issue were going so well as your much larger roll safely and stop safely issue.....


Clearly defined issues and clearly defined remedies in your case.


Mystery continues in my present one. More of the persistence/tenacious thing in the AM.


Fell asleep awaiting the last episode of a History channel piece on the "Lost Dutchman" gold mine of the Superstition Mountains in Arizona. The first part was intriguing.


Carl
Carl
 
  #78  
Old 02-16-2015, 10:31 AM
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Early this morning husband contacted Welsh and ordered a new spindle, bearings and seals for the right side. The salesman had a used spindle on hand, but when he looked closely it too had the beginnings of a notch where the bearing had started spinning. He back ordered a new one for us.

Husband says they're nice guys who are helpful and know their stuff. That's high praise coming from him.

We have Plenty to keep us busy until it all arrives.

I was just thinking, we have this Marvelous stuff called Stud & Bearing Mount by Permatex. Since these races are *KNOWN* to spin on the shafts, I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to "glue" then down with a drop or two of that. Hmm...... Any thought about that, yea or nay from anyone?
(';')
 
  #79  
Old 02-16-2015, 10:48 AM
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Interesting idea. Loctite offers a version. As I recall, once "glued", it takes heat to break the bond, if one desires to remove it.


I think it was that, that I was thinking of when I mentioned the PO's possible gluing.


A good old "Google" search might find something on the point.


And, a call to the tech of either or both Permatex and Loctite might offer some advice.


I did that with Permatex for guidance in which product to use as a gasket on the head to ram manifolds joints on my LT1. Slick. No issues there. No gaskets to wrangle !!!


Carl
 
  #80  
Old 02-16-2015, 11:28 AM
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Acetone will also dissolve Loctite 620 or 680.

At work, we had a centrifugal oil purifier that had an epoxy coating in the sump, we couldn't heat it to release the bearing at the bottom or it would have destroyed the coating. We used acetone to dissolve the loctite and release the bearing from the sump casting.
 
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