OUCH!!!

"Take two paracetamol and see your doctor in the morning", now, where have I heard that before?...

Those were the infamous words spoken to me by the "senior" neurologist at QA hospital in Portsmouth when I was taken there after a brain haemorrhage! I lost the use of my voice and, despite me telling him, by writing it, what the cause was i.e a cranial bleed, he chose not to believe me and sent me home!

Luckily for me a friend came over that evening and took me immediately to an emergency doctor who sent me back to the hospital with strict instructions to do a CT scan.

It was one of the times I was not happy to be right....

The neurologist didn't even have the decency to come and see me and apologise.

I was in the hospital for seven weeks getting brain surgery and must say that the level of care was unsurpassed.

Makes me angry whenever cuts are proposed for the NHS.

 

I have been told, anjum, that fully half of all doctors in practice today graduated in the bottom 50% of their class.

I think you got one of them.
(';')

 

I got inspired after supper this evening, and I went a little berserk.

After I cleaned up the area under the car I found a couple more items that need attention before the project is finished, but I really wanted to get the new longer lug bolts out of the way.

First I put an index mark on both the hub and rotor just in case they're balanced as a unit. Picture below.

Then I fired up the compressor and air wrench and removed the 5/8 inch bolts from the inside of the hub. A gentle tap with a hammer separated the two nicely. I also kept the bolts separately in labeled baggies, mostly to keep them together. Such things have a habit of crawling off.

The Blue Book says, "Using a power press and a suitable mandrel press out the lugs." The press is no problem but the "suitable mandrels" are a different matter. To remove the old bolts I used a 3/4 thin wall socket, which had to be slightly ground on one side because the casting is slightly curved toward the inside and I wanted to be pushing square, plumb and flat so I didn't break the casting. It didn't take a lot to adjust the socket, just a smidgen, really only taking the rounded edge off as seen between the red arrows below.

It worked way easier to press the old lugs up into the socket as shown than trying to hold everything in line to press them down where I couldn't see what I was doing. It also helped a LOT to spray a penetrant on the heads and let them soak a while before trying to press them out. Even then some of them were Very stubborn.

Pressing in the new lugs also required "suitable mandrels." To protect the threads from any likely damage I stuck a short length of 5/8 inch heater hose in a 7/8 deep impact socket. A short 7/16 socket worked to press the new lugs into the hub. (Sockets are some of my favorite press tools.) I also twisted the new lugs slightly to line up with the existing splines in the hub, so the new bolt didn't have to cut new ones, perhaps weakening the splines' holding ability. I knew when the new lugs were well seated because the press stopped moving.

Before bolting the hubs and rotors back together I cleaned their mating surfaces with Berryman's carb cleaner to be sure of a close fit. Then I merely bolted them together again.

You can plainly see the difference in length between the lugs. The longer ones are necessary for good wheel security while using the spacers as described earlier in this thread, that allow running my Teardrop rims. What looks like the wear pattern on the short lug is only where the penetrant didn't get into the threads.
(';')

 

Clear as a bell. Good material for the archives. Good work.


Yup, I've used a socket as a press mandrel more than once. Example is on universal joints on the drive shaft.


But, no slick press like yours. My big vice had to do it. It did, I do vaguely remember stripping the threads in a past vice rendering it useless!!!


Back a decade or two, my Chrysler Cordoba tossed a rear drive shaft u joint. Well, it remained connected, but an awful vibration. I was neat the SF airport, away from home by quite a ways, including a bridge and tunnel. No place to get stranded.


I sorta coasted into Chevron station. big sigh, "mechanic on duty". Yahoo,
he agreed with my diagnosis. Put it on a rack. slick little tool to do the press out and press in. New kit on premises as well. quick as a flash and I am ready to go.
I forgot the charge, but, I found it quite reasonable.


A lessor place could've really gouged me.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl,
Husband is some years older than I am (cradle robber) so has had a lot longer to collect specialized tools like this press.

I've changed U-joints on my work truck with a big vise (husband also has a selection of those in various sizes, says "every man needs a couple vices") but I'm not sure the vise would have worked in this application.
(';')

 

That language thing again! Mechanical or behavior!!!


I have four mechanical ones. Big one bolted to tool bench. A smaller on that fastens by clamping it in the jaws of the big one for small things. a must beat up little one that attaches to my welding/bash bench. I put small items in it's jaws to keep them aligned for welding.


And a multi wayed device for my drill press. Plus some sacrifial iron and blocks of wood to hold odd stuff in place to be drilled reasonably accurately.


Not to mention two little devices to hold wire in place to be soldered.


And, as to the other type, I plead the 5th.


Carl

 

Hi Elinor, just jumped back on this thread after a couple of weeks off.(Family visiting, and more coming this weekend....great)
I hope hubby's finger is healing, will catch up on Nix progress over the next few days.

 

While I was cleaning up the floor under Nix I was Amazed how much access there is to 'things' with no cross member and steering rack in the way.

I wanted to put on new plugs and wires for quite some time (have both under my desk) but the boots are like Glued to the ceramic plugs, and their position was such that I could in no way loosen them. So, I've been driving on plugs, who knows how old they are.

With all the other stuff out of the way, not only could I see the plugs/wires but I could actually touch them; and get a 90 degree pick between the boots and plugs, and work it around to loosen the boots! I was Very pleased about that. So before the car goes back together I'll be able to put in new plugs, AND the lubricant that keeps them from sticking to each other.

There has also been an oil leak from soon after she came to live with us and it was getting steadily worse. The oil pan and transmission were always wet with oil and I've always suspected the timing chain cover because the top end is mostly dry. The cross member was literally Dripping with oil when it came out from under the car. I discovered the reason for all these.

At some time in the past, someone (I think I knew who) tried to fix a leaking pan gasket with RTV (silicone) and did a Really Poor job. It's gonna be interesting to fix too, because the Levitation Device uses the pan rails to hold the engine up. But at least I know now where the oil comes from.

I also discovered that the old rack has been wearing on the oil pan! There are corresponding marks on the rack and the pan. New motor mounts should fix that I hope! Otherwise there will be serious trouble down the line!

I knew the ring gear cover was broken and only staying on by interference with the oil filter so that'll be fix too, probably with some fender washers.

Pictures should be mostly self explanatory.
(';')

 

Oh, what fun.


1. Way back when, I changed the Optilite in my LT1 powered car. it is located on the front cover and driven from the cam nose. I refitted the plug wires. a new set. Couldn't see at all. Done strictly by feel amazingly, I got the sequence right!!!


2. The spark plugs are hard to reach. Luckily, in my car, supposedly good for 100,00 miles??? It got a new set on the install. So, should outlive me. I found a short length of rubber tubing over the cap helped set the plug w/o stripping threads. My son says I am a master of the cross thread.


3. If your dust cover for the ring gear is busted, I see three options.
A. Remove it and forget it. Many an SBC is running around sans cover and doing just fine.
B: I have a cast alloy cover that supposedly goes on my LT1. But, it is just fine with a tin cover. why, I have no idea.


C: Use your newly acquired MIG skills and weld it up. Oh, on my car, the fasteners are the same thread and size of the three that hold the converter to the flex plate. How, I know that is a whole story in itself.


4. The front timing chain cover to pan joint has always been an issue for SBC's. Removal of the cover involves dropping the pan. so, many have altered it to allow the cover to be removed to change a cam and leave the pan in place. RTV is called on to seal the thing. At times OK, and others, not so much.


5. Can you tell what motor mounts were used by the swapper? Hopefully, a GM variety. There are several. I used to have an old Jeep pickup with an SBC swap. I had to install big washers to lift the front of the engine a tad and keep it from eating a radiator hose. Caveat: GM had a recall on mounts at one time. Torque would twist the engine on it's mounts and cause the throttle to stick. Not good. The fix, a simple cable to limit the movement!!!


My car's ignition switch is on the bench, taken apart with tests in progress.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl,
In order to properly fix the timing chain cover the AC condenser has to be removed, which means breaking into the system which I DO NOT want to do!!

I have to take the radiator out for cleaning and changing the bottom hose anyway but that can be done without disturbing the AC.

I do plan to put in 100,000 mile Platinum plugs. I can reach them from the top so it shouldn't be too hard to change them again once I put the lubricant on the boots. Since I already have new wires I'll simply change them one at a time until I have them all renewed.

I'll probably weld a big washer on the dust cover to distribute the load better. The other side is broken too, which I couldn't see before. I don't want to run without a cover on the ring gear as growing up on gravel roads taught me early that's a good way to have the bell housing full of rocks and destroy the ring gear and possibly damage the torque converter. We have a gravel driveway which likes to share its pebbles and I really don't want to tempt providence so to speak.

I have to think real hard how I'm gonna fix that timing chain cover. I know Jaguars mark their spot, which isn't unusual for any car I ever drove, but piddling to this extent just isn't acceptable. I have time though, because there are no new spindles anywhere that husband can find on this side of the Pond and I Need another one.

Motor mounts are indeed GM. I have new ones in my possession. The left one was already broken (that may or may not explain the rack tearing up the pan, or vice versa). I think there will be a short length of chain installed with the left one to keep it from tearing itself apart again.

I Like your big washer/spacer idea, thank you for that!! I can't lift the engine too far or the fan will eat up the should, but I may be able to lift it just enough to keep the pan off the rack.

I hope you get your kitty back on the road soon, Carl, I know the pangs of withdrawals you're experiencing just now. With these past warm days it's been almost more than I can stand to not be able to drive Nix.
(';')

 

After supper, the time of day I frequently get inspired, I was removing spark plugs while I could see what I was doing, as I've mentioned previously.

I started with the left bank, of course because it's easier, and all the plugs look Really Good! -- The ones I actually got out, that is, because I ran into a little snag.

The two back plugs on the right bank were behind the starter wire. No Problem, I got this! I got a 5/8 socket and about 14 inches of extensions to get the ratchet out beyond the exhaust, gave it a try and, Good Heavens That's Tight!!

So I tried again, and <CRACK!!> I broke the solenoid.

Who In The **** puts on a starter wire with 200 pounds of torque??!! I've Never found one of these connections that tight!

That's gonna slow thing up for sure.

Never a dull moment around here.
(';')

 

I am of the firm belief that there is a very large Mongolian arm wrestler who tours the world tightening random fasteners on old cars, leaving these little time bombs for us all especially when we think we are just tackling that "simple" job.

 

Would that be the same Mongolian that puts some of the beer twist tops on and champagne corks in?

 

Wow, Arms too strong. too much time on the weed whacker?


1/2" drive and extensions? 3/8" better to limit the torque. Better clearances as well.


I rarely use my 1/2" any more. 3/8" seems to do a lot. And, my new 1/4" is really neat.


Looks like the trusty "old tech" Delco there. Big and heavy to pull. But, once out, the solenoid part isn't hard to replace. A slick part of those is that the contact plate nside can be rotated to present a fresh surface.


As the thing has to come pout anyway, the plug access should be much easier.

 

1/2" is reserved for the air wrench, Carl. I had a 3/8 drive and about an 8 inch ratchet!

I'll have the air down there to drop the exhaust though, you can bet on that! And Then I'll be able to get an end wrench on the back nut, to get the front nut off, to get the hot wire off, to get the starter out, and change the solenoid (which husband found one on the Net last night for under $30), and Finally get all the spark plugs out.

I have no doubt that starter dates from the time of conversion in 1986. That would certainly make it Old Tech, wouldn't it.

When I was a kid, they used to turn those Huge copper solenoid washers over sometimes when the contacts had eaten pits so deep they wouldn't touch anymore.
(';')

 

You have a handle on it for sure.


Might be easier (?) to disconnect the battery cable up top, just under the battery box.
Same for the relay to solenoid wire. Easier connecting top side.


Caveat. Look at the armature and brushes in the starter as long as it is on the bench.


My 79 IHC Scout II had that big Delco. Tough as they come.


Carl

 

I got the starter out and only lost a drop of blood in the process.

The last starter I changed was on my work truck and it nearly fell out on the ground after I got the bolts loose and the new one almost hopped up into place. None of this foolishness of having to drop the exhaust-down pipe to make room for it to come out and/or go back in.

After I got the pipe undone and was satisfied I wouldn't tear up that little brass tube that takes off the down-pipe and goes upstairs somewhere, (which already has a worry hole in it), then I started on the starter wires.

HA!!

Topside they're buried in the bulkhead lining somewhere (you know, that Forbidden mineral we can't talk about) and aren't plainly in sight. The battery cable has been off for months though, so no danger of a short circus anywhere.

I finally broke out the hot contact bolt completely from the plastic housing to deal with it later, and the nut was stripped on the small hold-in winding, so after fighting with it for a while I just got the side cutters and clipped the wire off! There's plenty of length for a new ring connector anyway.

When that all goes back together it will be with Reasonably tight, not done by Steve's Mongolian Arm Wrestler. That was Ridiculous!

The contact area on the main solenoid bolt looks nearly new! It's a shame I had to break it. I discovered the problem though, some over-zealous mechanic in the past put the nut on with Lock-tite, which you can see the remains at the red arrow. When I put an end wrench on the inner nut, it just turned! It required vise-grips on the head of the bolt (green arrow) (and they had to be Really tight), and a socket on the outer nut, and Then it broke loose. There's no Way someone was going to get that off in the normal way. It just happened that I had my fingers in it when the situation became plain.

Before I quit I got the last two plugs out and inspected the pipe. That engine is running So well, which I knew while I was driving it but husband is always worrying about Emissions time. The plugs are all a golden brown to straw colored, consistently colored, and the pipe is a Beautiful Dove Gray (unfortunately it didn't photograph very well so there's no picture at this time). I don't think there will be a problem at all.

Husband acquired a new solenoid for me today so I can get that back on and the starter reinstalled tomorrow evening, after putting in the new plugs.

Below are a few pictures for your entertainment.
(';')

 

Slick.


I was lucky. My Lt1's starter is of the smaller variety. It cleared the down pipe. I was prepared to drop it if necessary.


TIP: My new starter had the new bolts in place and the threads were covered in a layer of what looked like Teflon tape. Neat. As they stayed in place in the vertical position so I could get a socket on them and drive them home. One arm to support the starter and the other to operate the 3/8" rachet. But, learned a bit on each, not all the way on either, then the other.


Plugs and pipe color show a healthy engine well tuned. Always nice to see.


Beck Arnley rebuild. Indicative of a good quality job.


Loctite on an electric bolt. Oh me......


Perfect example of misuse of a good thing.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl,
Yes, I was Very happy to see the color of the plugs And the pipes! Yes, Very happy indeed! I'm not gonna mess with the carburetor or timing at all!

I have a plan to put up the starter again; it has a bracket bolted from the block to a stud, which bracket has 2 slotted holes for the stud and its mounting bolt.

If I loosely bolt the bracket onto the block so it swings, I'll be able to stick the nose onto the ring gear, slip the bracket over the stud and screw in the 2 main bolts at my leisure.
(';')

 

I used to write tutorials for a picture editing application and I was good at it if I do say so myself. I always started out with, "This tutorial assumes you know nothing. If you already know some of this stuff, skip to the part you don't know."

It occurred to me that since we have so many more visitors than members, some of whom may be shy, not wanting to sign up but still would like to know, perhaps it would be a good idea to show how to change a starter solenoid.

I know all you regulars know how to do this so just ignore what follows.

Once you get the starter on a suitable work surface the first thing you want to do is clean it up a bit. Working on a greasy, slippery part is NOT fun.

Then remove the small cross-head screw at the bottom of the solenoid and remove the copper tube (this sends power from the solenoid to the starter windings).

After that you'll need a Large blade screwdriver (or whatever your solenoid is attached with) and a way to block the starter from moving around because you're gonna be pushing Really hard to get the two big screws broken loose.

After they're removed, you'll need to turn the solenoid to the left as shown to free the locking tab from the main starter body. After that you can pull the large can away from the starter. The plunger in the center stays with the starter. Don't try to remove the roll-pin inside the housing.

When putting the new solenoid back on the starter;
don't forget the large spring first,
line up the plunger correctly,
turn the solenoid to engage the locking tab,
put in the two large screws WITH their lock washers and tighten,
screw in the bottom connection WITH the copper tube as you found it and you're ready to put the starter back into the car.

Sometimes the solenoid is a bit mysterious if one doesn't know what's inside and how they work. Basically, they're just a heavy duty switch or relay. As mine was broken I can take pictures of what makes them tick.

All that power needed to crank the engine can't possibly flow through the ignition switch, the contacts there are too small. So the ignition switch sends a little power to an intermediate relay, which closes a heavier contact which in turn sends more power to the solenoid (which is a Powerful electromagnet), which activates the plunger, which does two things; a) engages the starter gear with the ring gear (that roll pin I mentioned), and b) in the center of the plunger is a rod with a large copper washer which closes the LARGE contacts as shown below, which sends full battery voltage to the starter windings. These two large copper bolts are quite able to carry enough power to crank the engine.

When you turn the key and hear <click>, that's the sound of that washer hitting the contacts. The most common cause for solenoid failure is deep pitting of the bolts so the washer can't make contact anymore. Sometimes the back of the solenoid can be removed as I have done here and the bolts turned over and you have basically new contacts.

I hope that's clear and understandable.
(';')