so recently I checked the trans fluid in my 74 xj6 and I was shocked when I saw the dipstick and it was clean, there was not a single drop of atf in the trans. so I referred to my Haynes manual and it said that it takes 8.2L of atf so I went to the parts store and purchased the needed amount, I went to fill it when the jag didn't even take 5L of atf, so I thought that ok maybe if I start the car it would suck it all down. so I did I started it, let it run for a bit and turned it off. Came to check the dipstick and it shows that its full, keep in mind it was fully empty and didn't even take 5L. so I took it for a little drive and as I came home and turned it off the car backfired and there was smoke coming from under the bonnet, I opened the bonnet and there was atf all over the bonnet and exhaust manifold. so I sprayed it with water to prevent a fire and the next day got my dad to start the car while I watched the engine bay, when he went to turn it off ATF shot out of the transmission breather and on the exhaust manifold.

could someone please help me out in why my s2 xj6 is shooting aft out of the trans breather and why the transmission is not taking the correct amount of ATF.

 

That transmission is OVER FULL.

The trans fluid level is ALWAYS checked with a running engine AT operating temp.

My experience with the S2 is that if it is not showing on the dipstick, it does NOT mean the trans is empty, it is simply below the dipstick level. The dipstick does not touch the bottom of the pan.

I add 1ltr at a time, engine ALWAYS running, and check the level after each 1ltr.

You need to remove about 3ltrs, and start again, SLOWLY, and a small amount at a time.

Either suck it out via the dipstick tube, or loosen the large nut AT the pan, where that tube attaches, and let it dribble out.

Dont forget: engine ALWAYS running, and add the fluid SLOWLY, and you will be fine, as will the car.

 

To elaborate a bit on Grant's answer.....

The dipstick reading only tells you the fluid level in the transmission pan, not the entire transmission. And, as Grant mentioned, the dipstick doesn't even go to the bottom of the pan....so a zero reading on the stick doesn't even confirm that the the pan is empty.

The pans hold only about 3 or 4 litres. The innards of the transmission, the torque converter mostly, hold the other 4-5 litres. So, while your dipstick read zero, there were 4-5 litres of fluid in the transmission and possibly a litre or so remaining in the pan.

Cheers
DD

 

cheers mate, but. even before I filled it it was shooting out the breather, it even caught fire at a stage.

 

I have a follow-up question. When I parked my 87 for the winter two years ago and it sat idle for 3 months, the transmission fluid level rose and overflowed the top of the dipstick tube. All over the floor and then wicked up my new car cover, grrr. Would I be correct that the fluid just drained from the transmission internals and torque converter? Any way to prevent that? Do cars in large collections that seldom get driven do that?

Jeff

 

YES.

But to get all the way up that dipstick tube and run out, that trans was SERIOUSLY overfull to start with. Drain back would be 4ltrs MAX.

Most common leak place is the selector shaft seal.

 

soo to fix my issue I just have to drain the trans right??? If soo Is there a way to drain it without having to drop the pan, cause then I’ll have to order a new gasket and things

 

YEP.

Always back to basics and a known position.

Drain the thing, let it drain for a few beers.

Pour 4 ltrs in, start the engine, let it idle, go thru the gears, let it idle.
Pull the dipstick, engine still at idle.
Top up, 1/2 ltr at a time until you get a reading at the COLD mark on that stick. Engine ALWAYS at idle.

Go for a drive, 20 minutes or so.

Stop the car, place in "P". Engine still at idle, check the level on the HOT side of the stick, should be at, or very close to the Full mark. A SMALL, as in 4mm, amount above the Hot mark is OK, as is that same amount below the Hot mark, the trans is NOT that fussy.

Jobs done, shut it down, have a beer.

 

On a BW65 and BW66 there is also another potential leak source - especially if it's broken or not seated properly, or the hose isn't attached. It's (what I believe) is the transmission breather. Part number RTC1883. It's made of plastic and has an O ring on it with two plastic tabs on the bottom of it with tube at the top that a hose goes onto. If RTC1883 is not fully seated down (and I do mean down) into the bore of the transmission (you will feel it snap in place if seated properly), then IT WILL LEAK. Especially when the transmission fluid drains down, as all the above blogs says it does, and fills up the pan. As me how I know. I had a transmission leak for months the following morning. A pink puddle under the car that I just could not figure out for the life of me. About a week ago, when the car was up on jackstands I spotted the leak at RTC1883. Yes, I replaced that with new a few months ago, but never seated it all the way in. I was afraid to push too hard. I pushed harder this time and now it seated properly WITH NO LEAKS!!

 

Hmmm. That's very interesting. In my post above, when I said it overflowed from the filler tube, I was assuming that as it never leaks when the car is being driven regularly. I'll get under there and see if that breather fitting is snapped in properly. Thanks for the heads up.

Jeff

 

Hi Jeff,
another thing I would check while under there is that the vent tube itself is not plugged up. In my area there are little "dirt dauber" wasps that LOVE to plug up any kind of hole they can find in hoses, pipes, even peg holes in a bookshelf ! That would maybe make the trans case pressurize and force the fluid up and out the dipstick tube. Just a wild guess / idea, since transmissions are the one part I'm NOT going to dig into !

Good luck !
Brian

 

You guys are geniuses. After studying Google images and learning the tube loops up by the starter I was able to use a flashlight and see the breather fitting Bill mentioned. I can see it from the top (under the bonnet) so no jacking, crawling under the car, etc; always a good thing. And, yes, the area around the fitting is oily. Since the tube is shiny clean I figure the fitting is cracked, not seated, or the o-ring is bad. So I'm going to order a new o-ring and fitting ($12 total) and replace them. Thanks for the tip what to look for.

Jeff

 

Glad to help! That's what this Forum is for!!!!

Bill

 

I know this has been discussed ad nauseam, but, help me understand something about the measurement on the transmission stick - the HOT side and the COLD side. My BW66 very much overreads high on the COLD side when cold. And in-between the Hi-Low marks on the HOT side. If as everyone says, the ATF when running the transmission goes from the pan to the torque convertor and throughout the transmission, then and then falls all back to the pan when cold. Why would the COLD side of the stick have markings LESS THAN the HOT side of the stick???

 

^^^
Because ATF expands as it gets hot and so shows more volume in the pan, and higher level on the stick.
(';')

 

My problem is that is shows more at cold than it does hot.

 

^^^
Nix's trans does that (700R4), the only one I ever owned that did.
Of course, it's the only Chevy trans I've ever owned.
I wonder if there's a correlation......
(';')

 

Mostly due to convertor drain back now they be OLD.

The "HOT" was always after a 20km drive with many stop and start procedures, and the engine left running when checking.

At Cold start, it takes some time to recharge the valve body etc etc, so Cold readings were always just a glimpse, if you forgot to keep count as you filled the thing.

I rarely used the Cold mark.
When filling, I simply look at the dipstick, fluid present means there is some on it, fill till above the Hot mark, engine OFF. Start the thing, let it warm up, dip again. As long as somewhere near the Full mark, engine running, then drive it, quietly, let it settle. Dip and final fill after the drive. Then check again after a few days use.

Most of mine were over the Hot full mark, 65 and 66., and even the 35. They, and especially me, are not that fussy with a tad more fluid, but will protest if below the Low mark.

Late stuff with NO dipstick and some crazy temp related "dribble out" fill, OOPS. Measure what came out, refill the same amount, plus a splash for good measure, they all appear happy.

 

My T400 behaved as Grant described, the convertor would routinely drain and the car didn't want to go anywhere until fluid pumped around. Dipstick always looked way over full cold but never overflowed, more by good luck than anything else. Following a refurb and the application of $ all is more normal now.

 

What Grant describes is what we used to call Morning Sickness on the farm.

I hadn't thought of the valve body needing recharged, as I thought it's usually at the bottom, and therefore bathed in fluid at all times? But I only have rudimentary understanding of auto boxes as I've never been into one.

It is true that I really have no idea now many miles on Nix's 700R, it could have been less than new at the time of installation in 1986. (Previous owner had the conversion done by others) But as long as it works as well as it does now, I'll leave it alone.
(';')