Does anyone know if those 14 large headed anti reverse screw/bolt that hold the body piece below the fuel tanks is something that can be bought new? I have searched for them online and in threads without success. Not even sure what they are called. Just wondering if anyone has ever put new ones in when changing/repairing the fuel tanks.

 

I believe they are called quarter-panels,at least they are in the UK, and I bought two new ones in the early 90s for my 1980 Series 3. Try David Manners of the UK. They have LH ones but not RH about £53 each. SNG Barratt have the RH ones for about the same price.

Both suppliers will sent to US

http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/company.asp
http://www.sngbarratt.com/catalogue/parts/search.asp

If these panels are rusted out, you will almost inevitably have to repair the inner wheel arch at the rear where these panels bolt on. This is easily done if you have the requisite MIG welder, a joggler, tin snips and a joggler. I did mine and it was hard afterwards to tell where the repair was. You may also have to do the panels internal to these, incl the boot floor, and the rear valence. I did all these with my little MIG in the early 90s.

 

Sorry, misread the post !! Replace the bolts and screws with stainless steel. The fixings are a combination of set screws, and nuts/bolts. There are three at the front inside the wheel arch too, normally covered in underseal. The panel these fix to is normally rusted out.

 

The stainless steel is a good idea, I have seen others do that. You could take one of the original "Pozidrive"-headed screws to a Lowe's, HD, or Fastenal store to match the size and thread pitch. Then either order them online from a fastener supplier or buy locally. The replacements may not be Pozidrive, but that doesn't matter.

Found someone saying to use 1/4-28 truss-head screws.

 

Every screw and nut/bolt was Imperial not Metric on my car, but I swapped to metric for the nuts/bolts to save some money as they are cheaper in the UK. For the setcrews you have to replace with Imperial threads as they fix into captive nuts on the inner panels.
I had no problem with getting stainless fasteners, there are a number of websites, Did you know that every fastener dimensions can be derived from the parts book ? I think the diameter is given in decimal inches, and the length in counts of 1/8". At least it worked for me, buti also bought a thread gauge and it is still in my toolbox after all those years

 

After removing the appropriate parts of the bumper and fuel tank covers (fenders), I took all the bolts and nuts to Lowe's. They had 90% of what I was looking for but need to find the posidrive headed screws online. The sheetmetal was all good except for a small area behind the passenger wheel. A 4x4 area rusted through. Looks like a small patch job before putting the tanks ("Renu'ed") from the parts car. So far, the process had been pretty smooth. Everything came off fairly easily. The only exception is that I cannot get the set screw off the pass side tail pipe to remove the stainless end. Need to get that off to access one of the bolt head's on the fuel tank. Darn thing just wont budge even after hours of PB Blaster. The other one came out no problem. May need an easy-out on this one.

 

I ordered the 1/4-28 stainless screws and washers from a place called McMaster-Carr online. Phone #630-600-3600 if anyone needs them. Only drawback is they only come in a slotted head.

 

If you have a setscrew securing the wiggly tail pipes by screwing into the exhaust pipe, that is a wrong installation as I found out on my car. Correct fixing is a circular clamp with a tapped hole that goes round the outside of the wiggly, and there is a set screw with a pointed end that is then screwd in and the point sticks into the exhaust pipe to secure it. Mine were stainless steel but I forget where I got them from, probably David Manners. They have the official Jaguar parts book for these cars complete with drawings and so on; a mine of information

 

I think the second version you describe is what I have on my tail pipes. The set screw sits above the tailpipe and goes through a threaded hole. The point then touches the tailpipe. It appears to be stainless and it is a mystery as to why it is so stubborn. Almost like it is welded in the threaded although it appears to look normal.

 

The easy out snapped off in the set screw hole and now I am just going to cut the bracket and set screw off with a grinder/wheel. Luckily, I have two "extras" from the parts car that will come in handy. Sucks to waste a nice stainless tip but there is no other choice.

 

With all the salt there is around today, even stainless steel will corrode and of course there are various grades of it, and I don't suppose yours was the highest.

 

I doubt they are premium grade but add a little anti seize and it surely will be easier the next time... if there is a next time. Hopefully with new tanks and hoses/o-rings I will never have to disassemble that part of the car ever again. The next guy might appreciate it though

 

It's funny isn't it, when I have been the "next guy", the previous one has never done anything to make my job easier !! Way of the world, I guess.