Seek your advises prior buying XJ 1977
#1
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Hello Everyone!
First of All, Happy new year! 🍻
Not sure where to start but here is the deal
Its been a long time that I’m looking for an old badass car and I’m probably going for an XJ6 or 12 from 1977 era.
Coupe or berline, not yet sure.
Beside the look, is there any other difference?
stronger chassis.. etc
I would first like to know if there is a model to avoid and what are the MUST to control prior buying such a model (known to fail).
All the models that I saw are automatic and I’d like to swap it manual:
is there a better series to do so?
what is the best swap available that keep the car like OEM.
Awaiting your advises with Thanks!
Cheers!!
First of All, Happy new year! 🍻
Not sure where to start but here is the deal
Its been a long time that I’m looking for an old badass car and I’m probably going for an XJ6 or 12 from 1977 era.
Coupe or berline, not yet sure.
Beside the look, is there any other difference?
stronger chassis.. etc
I would first like to know if there is a model to avoid and what are the MUST to control prior buying such a model (known to fail).
All the models that I saw are automatic and I’d like to swap it manual:
is there a better series to do so?
what is the best swap available that keep the car like OEM.
Awaiting your advises with Thanks!
Cheers!!
#2
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The most important thing to avoid is rust.
Far fewer coupes were produced than saloons, but I don't know what percentage survive for either. Coupe prices are higher generally as a result of the lower production.
The trim and other coupe specific parts are more expensive/less available for the same reason, so that's something to keep an eye out for when you shop.
I don't think there are specific years or models to avoid for design, feature, or engineering reasons. But as a '70s BL product, some were better built than others. My general belief is that the bad ones are gone by now, or they've had their faults corrected to where it doesn't make a difference.
So take the general precautions one takes when buying a 50 year old car: Buy the best you can afford. Mechanical systems are relatively straight forward and easy to repair. Body, paint, and leather repairs are far more costly.
Far fewer coupes were produced than saloons, but I don't know what percentage survive for either. Coupe prices are higher generally as a result of the lower production.
The trim and other coupe specific parts are more expensive/less available for the same reason, so that's something to keep an eye out for when you shop.
I don't think there are specific years or models to avoid for design, feature, or engineering reasons. But as a '70s BL product, some were better built than others. My general belief is that the bad ones are gone by now, or they've had their faults corrected to where it doesn't make a difference.
So take the general precautions one takes when buying a 50 year old car: Buy the best you can afford. Mechanical systems are relatively straight forward and easy to repair. Body, paint, and leather repairs are far more costly.
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#3
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Some ‘77’s have the newer design lower control arm for more caster (I think). Mine did. Also the later ‘77’s had the GM T400 transmission. .
Best advice I got before I bought mine was buy a rust free southern car. My ‘77 XJ12L came from California. a friend and I flew out and drove it back to Ohio over ‘89-90 New Years Eve.
The car has been converted to a 462 BBC with a 700R4 with a 3:54 final drive.
Smoke ‘em if ya got ‘em.
Best advice I got before I bought mine was buy a rust free southern car. My ‘77 XJ12L came from California. a friend and I flew out and drove it back to Ohio over ‘89-90 New Years Eve.
The car has been converted to a 462 BBC with a 700R4 with a 3:54 final drive.
Smoke ‘em if ya got ‘em.
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bullittandy (01-15-2024)
#4
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Grant Francis (01-12-2024)
#5
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L-jag,
Re: Rust... To amplify previous comments;
Even if you are familiar with how '70's American iron rusted out, these are a whole...'nother...level.
I would not purchase one without first having lifting both front carpets and undercarpets. And there may be more layers than you can believe. Need a look at the floors from above/inside, especially where floor meets vertical kick-panel.
And look under back seat.
I know many sellers don't want someone tearing their car apart. But without seeing the floors from above, you really aren't getting the full picture.
Many of these ran for years with unknown or unacknowledged window seal leaks and plugged air-conditioning condensate drains . All that water went somewhere.
Before jacking car for the first time, establish floor around jack points is solid.
Good luck!
Re: Rust... To amplify previous comments;
Even if you are familiar with how '70's American iron rusted out, these are a whole...'nother...level.
I would not purchase one without first having lifting both front carpets and undercarpets. And there may be more layers than you can believe. Need a look at the floors from above/inside, especially where floor meets vertical kick-panel.
And look under back seat.
I know many sellers don't want someone tearing their car apart. But without seeing the floors from above, you really aren't getting the full picture.
Many of these ran for years with unknown or unacknowledged window seal leaks and plugged air-conditioning condensate drains . All that water went somewhere.
Before jacking car for the first time, establish floor around jack points is solid.
Good luck!
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LnrB (01-11-2024)
#6
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^^^
Oh, YEAH!!
When husband bought Nix for me, the Only rust showing was a small blister behind the right rear tire (which hasn't grown since thanks to Liberal application of Cavity Coater and keeping the car off wet roads). But as they say, that was only the Tip of the problem.
I only noticed while treating the Underside of the floor, and discovered black carpet sticking out a very long crack in the lacework. All this was covered with about 6 layers of carpet and padding nearly an inch thick, several of those layers Glued together and had been Glued to the floor, which had rusted from under all that glue! Gas pedal was nearly falling through the rusty floor, the driver side floor itself was about to turn me into Wilma Flintstone. The passenger side, although not nearly as bad, needed Heroic effort to save and not require whole new floor pan also!
Had we known the extent of the rust destruction, there would have been a Lot more Heavy negation for a Much lower price than we paid.
I don't regret it looking back, but I Certainly wouldn't want to do it now.
Check for RUST! Then check again. In all those areas mentioned here and above.
I wish you success.
(';')
Oh, YEAH!!
When husband bought Nix for me, the Only rust showing was a small blister behind the right rear tire (which hasn't grown since thanks to Liberal application of Cavity Coater and keeping the car off wet roads). But as they say, that was only the Tip of the problem.
I only noticed while treating the Underside of the floor, and discovered black carpet sticking out a very long crack in the lacework. All this was covered with about 6 layers of carpet and padding nearly an inch thick, several of those layers Glued together and had been Glued to the floor, which had rusted from under all that glue! Gas pedal was nearly falling through the rusty floor, the driver side floor itself was about to turn me into Wilma Flintstone. The passenger side, although not nearly as bad, needed Heroic effort to save and not require whole new floor pan also!
Had we known the extent of the rust destruction, there would have been a Lot more Heavy negation for a Much lower price than we paid.
I don't regret it looking back, but I Certainly wouldn't want to do it now.
Check for RUST! Then check again. In all those areas mentioned here and above.
I wish you success.
(';')
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#7
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Once again, Grant's "do it once and do it right" has proved to be correct. At about 73 to 75 years old, something happens to the psychological energy availabe, and to the body's ability to do the job, even if the will is there, it seems to me!
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#8
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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This is So true! Even stuff I did a few years ago would seem daunting if I had to do it again, and that with the unknowns I faced then now known about.
Once again, Grant's "do it once and do it right" has proved to be correct. At about 73 to 75 years old, something happens to the psychological energy availabe, and to the body's ability to do the job, even if the will is there, it seems to me!
Once again, Grant's "do it once and do it right" has proved to be correct. At about 73 to 75 years old, something happens to the psychological energy availabe, and to the body's ability to do the job, even if the will is there, it seems to me!
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