Ser III XJ6 to V12 project
#41
Using Scapa cloth electrical tape gives a very nice appearing result, looking less cheapo than the usual black vinyl electrical tape
http://towzatronics.com/wp-content/u...Cloth-Tape.jpg
Mopar Dodge Plymouth Wiring Harness Black Cloth Automotive Electrical Tape | eBay
http://towzatronics.com/wp-content/u...Cloth-Tape.jpg
Mopar Dodge Plymouth Wiring Harness Black Cloth Automotive Electrical Tape | eBay
How does that tape work ? Is it sticky ? Do you have to heat it to make it stick ?
#42
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Sarc (02-04-2016)
#43
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
Problem! I knew something had to happen!
Ran across my first SNAFU today.
First, look at item #1 in this picture --- the big mounting bracket:
Gearbox Mounting-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Well......
....it won't bolt up to the underbody of the car. The 6 cylinder cars had a slightly different (but equally bizarre) arrangement and the underbody mounting holes won't mate up the V12 brackets. I'm a bit surprised that Jaguar didn't configure the underbody holes/anchors to accept both 6 and 12 cylinder type mounts
I'm pondering possible solutions, the foremost in my mind is to ditch the Jaguar mounting system entirely and fabricate a much simpler set-up using a conventional (by USA standards) single-block-of-rubber mount on a simple cross-member.
Cheers
DD
First, look at item #1 in this picture --- the big mounting bracket:
Gearbox Mounting-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Well......
....it won't bolt up to the underbody of the car. The 6 cylinder cars had a slightly different (but equally bizarre) arrangement and the underbody mounting holes won't mate up the V12 brackets. I'm a bit surprised that Jaguar didn't configure the underbody holes/anchors to accept both 6 and 12 cylinder type mounts
I'm pondering possible solutions, the foremost in my mind is to ditch the Jaguar mounting system entirely and fabricate a much simpler set-up using a conventional (by USA standards) single-block-of-rubber mount on a simple cross-member.
Cheers
DD
The following users liked this post:
ronbros (02-06-2016)
#44
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Whew???
Ideas:
1. drill the V12 mount to match the holes in the I6 body. Or fab straps with holes to match and welds to the V12 "device",
the hard way as is my wont.
2. My lump uses a simple plate with holes to match the body and a hole in which to mount the simple hard rubber mount. simple, teime tested and works just fine.
But, your situation would need a bit of fabrication or would it as to attaching the simple mount to the transmission tail shaft.
Or, as the transmission of the V12 is of GM origin, have a provision for simply bolting it on.
Seems that the last paragraph in your post is the most doable. Agree.
that's where I would go.
Plumbing job expanded. what else is new??? but, done, no more over flow. Only in the tank, not on floor, thanks god!!
Carl
Ideas:
1. drill the V12 mount to match the holes in the I6 body. Or fab straps with holes to match and welds to the V12 "device",
the hard way as is my wont.
2. My lump uses a simple plate with holes to match the body and a hole in which to mount the simple hard rubber mount. simple, teime tested and works just fine.
But, your situation would need a bit of fabrication or would it as to attaching the simple mount to the transmission tail shaft.
Or, as the transmission of the V12 is of GM origin, have a provision for simply bolting it on.
Seems that the last paragraph in your post is the most doable. Agree.
that's where I would go.
Plumbing job expanded. what else is new??? but, done, no more over flow. Only in the tank, not on floor, thanks god!!
Carl
The following users liked this post:
Doug (02-06-2016)
#45
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
Posts: 7,362
Received 1,236 Likes
on
943 Posts
Ran across my first SNAFU today.
First, look at item #1 in this picture --- the big mounting bracket:
Gearbox Mounting-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Well......
....it won't bolt up to the underbody of the car. The 6 cylinder cars had a slightly different (but equally bizarre) arrangement and the underbody mounting holes won't mate up the V12 brackets. I'm a bit surprised that Jaguar didn't configure the underbody holes/anchors to accept both 6 and 12 cylinder type mounts
I'm pondering possible solutions, the foremost in my mind is to ditch the Jaguar mounting system entirely and fabricate a much simpler set-up using a conventional (by USA standards) single-block-of-rubber mount on a simple cross-member.
Cheers
DD
First, look at item #1 in this picture --- the big mounting bracket:
Gearbox Mounting-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Well......
....it won't bolt up to the underbody of the car. The 6 cylinder cars had a slightly different (but equally bizarre) arrangement and the underbody mounting holes won't mate up the V12 brackets. I'm a bit surprised that Jaguar didn't configure the underbody holes/anchors to accept both 6 and 12 cylinder type mounts
I'm pondering possible solutions, the foremost in my mind is to ditch the Jaguar mounting system entirely and fabricate a much simpler set-up using a conventional (by USA standards) single-block-of-rubber mount on a simple cross-member.
Cheers
DD
doug thats what i did , much to expensive to use OEM parts.
i used a standard Chevy rubber trans mount on a steel bracket for the 700 trans. i think around $25, bucks.
#46
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
The following users liked this post:
ronbros (02-13-2016)
#47
#48
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
The engine bay on this car was especially rough. Fortunately, for my sanity and level of enthusiasm, an immaculate engine, show quality bay isn't in the cards. I've been here and done that a couple times. Very rewarding, but my heart just isn't in it these days. It's just too much work keeping it up to that standard.
Anyhow, to answer your question......
Lots of aerosol degreaser and brake wash, a gallon of mineral spirits, countless brushes and rags, and umpteen hours of nasty work....just to bring it up to "I can live with it" standard
Then, after cleaning, sanding and repainting the areas near the battery and under the master cylinder. I also removed and repainted the heat shield on the firewall.
One advantage of the V12 in a Series III is that the engine bay ends is filled to the absolute brim....so very little is actually visible
Cheers
DD
The following users liked this post:
Lagonia (02-13-2016)
#49
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
More updates:
Prior to installing the engine the V12 springs and anti-roll bar were installed, as were new lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings, and subframe bushings. The lower arm bushings were not too bad, actually, but this was one case where the job is SO much easier with the engine out that I couldn't pass up the opportunity.
I'm presently working on the V12 gearshift installation (it's different than the 6 cylinder version) and V12 shift cable.
Cheers
DD
Prior to installing the engine the V12 springs and anti-roll bar were installed, as were new lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings, and subframe bushings. The lower arm bushings were not too bad, actually, but this was one case where the job is SO much easier with the engine out that I couldn't pass up the opportunity.
I'm presently working on the V12 gearshift installation (it's different than the 6 cylinder version) and V12 shift cable.
Cheers
DD
#50
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
#51
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
Right, I am using the shift tower and shift cable from the V12 donor car.
This, in turn, requires some minor re-wiring of the neutral safety switch circuit and the back-up lamp circuit. On the 6-cylinder recipient car these functions were handled by the transmission mounted rotary switch. The V12 uses gearshift mounted switches.
Cheers
DD
#52
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
My 6-cylinder recipient car had be driven lord-knows-how-long with a leaky oil pressure switch. The cross member was positively 'caked' with gunk. What a mess. I used a kitchen spatula to scrape off the worst of it....then moved on to aerosols and stiff brushes
Cheers
DD
#53
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Getting there!!!!
My shop tin cans include a variety of scraping devices.
No kitchen stuff, yet, any way.
Oven cleaner has probably lost it's bite nowadays. Once, tough stuff.
Today, mebbe:
1. Put new strings in weed whacker. Whack some more in front "lawn"!
2. Replace scuttle cover and cheek panel in Jaguar passenger side.
That down and upside down work I no longer do well.
3. More work on "rectification" of old tools. Present effort, a once slick
"spoke shave". Blade removable for honing to a really sharp edge.
4. ?. My antique ""Yankee drill" might be perfect for driving the scuttle screws home!!!! Ancient meets merely old!!
Carl
My shop tin cans include a variety of scraping devices.
No kitchen stuff, yet, any way.
Oven cleaner has probably lost it's bite nowadays. Once, tough stuff.
Today, mebbe:
1. Put new strings in weed whacker. Whack some more in front "lawn"!
2. Replace scuttle cover and cheek panel in Jaguar passenger side.
That down and upside down work I no longer do well.
3. More work on "rectification" of old tools. Present effort, a once slick
"spoke shave". Blade removable for honing to a really sharp edge.
4. ?. My antique ""Yankee drill" might be perfect for driving the scuttle screws home!!!! Ancient meets merely old!!
Carl
#54
I have used this cleaner with *extreme* success!!! It will eat through any type of grease/grime with ease.
However, at full strength, it will burn your hands and will dissolve aluminum, so care is advised.
Zep Degreaser
My local Lowe's hardware store carries it.
However, at full strength, it will burn your hands and will dissolve aluminum, so care is advised.
Zep Degreaser
My local Lowe's hardware store carries it.
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (02-14-2016)
#55
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (02-14-2016)
#56
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
Posts: 25,665
Received 9,470 Likes
on
5,470 Posts
I have used this cleaner with *extreme* success!!! It will eat through any type of grease/grime with ease.
However, at full strength, it will burn your hands and will dissolve aluminum, so care is advised.
Zep Degreaser
My local Lowe's hardware store carries it.
However, at full strength, it will burn your hands and will dissolve aluminum, so care is advised.
Zep Degreaser
My local Lowe's hardware store carries it.
If it works, it's not generally available here. But I'll look anyway.
(';')
#57
#58
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
Yes, stock...one of several types used on the Series III
You can get the part numbers here:
Windscreen Washer Reservoir - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
I got mine from David Boger, however
Cheers
DD
#59
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,927
Received 10,988 Likes
on
7,215 Posts
Sorry. I gave you a picture of what you already have!
The one seen in post 26 is also a stock washer fluid bottle but was used only on the later 6 cylinder cars s far as I know. I don't have the part number but I'm sure David Boger can send you one.
Cheers
DD
#60
HI All DAIMLER DOUBLE SIX TO SOVERIGN 4.2
Hi all I have a Daimler double six that has many body parts that have started to corrode, i.e. front wings,rear wing quite bad rust from window down to arch, rear chassis leg, rear doors and headlining starting to fall at back too. I have a 4.2 sovereign minus engine gearbox and steering rack, that has a great body how easy is to change everything over and what would I need to change. or is it worth cutting up the shell to put on the Daimler?. I have rebuilt the suspension on the Daimler back and front with new parts. please give me your feedback thank you.