Series 1 Fuel gauge adventures
#1
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After spending hours getting the twin pumps working (and not filling up the boot with gasoline), I discover the fuel gauge was unemployed, ie no readings even when switching tanks.
1. I knew the tank units were OK. Checked them when cleaning & reinstalling the saddle tanks.
2. Checked ground connections for the sender units. Both OK.
3. Used jumper lead to check continuity from 12v wires from senders to change-over switch. Both OK.
4. Suspect the voltage stabiliser was kaput. Removed it and checked it independently with 12 volt battery. Reading on the 10v middle terminal indicated it was OK.
5. Checked connections to fuel gauge on printed circuit board. Got readings from both terminal on back of gauge, so I figured it was OK.
6. Checked to see if voltage was getting to change over switch from gauge terminal. Zero volts.
7. Checked plug connection (terminal #1). Discovered it was not making contact with PCB end, hence no volts @ switch.
8. Gently spread plug "tongue" with pliers, contact achieved & volts @ switch, hence volts now getting to sender units. FUEL GAUGE WORKS!
I could have saved hours of work by first checking for voltage directly at sender units on each tank, but no, I had to do it the hard way.
And in the background on the radio, Mark Knopfler was reminding me:
"That ain't working, that's the way you do it. Money for nothin' and chicks for free".
Pete
1. I knew the tank units were OK. Checked them when cleaning & reinstalling the saddle tanks.
2. Checked ground connections for the sender units. Both OK.
3. Used jumper lead to check continuity from 12v wires from senders to change-over switch. Both OK.
4. Suspect the voltage stabiliser was kaput. Removed it and checked it independently with 12 volt battery. Reading on the 10v middle terminal indicated it was OK.
5. Checked connections to fuel gauge on printed circuit board. Got readings from both terminal on back of gauge, so I figured it was OK.
6. Checked to see if voltage was getting to change over switch from gauge terminal. Zero volts.
7. Checked plug connection (terminal #1). Discovered it was not making contact with PCB end, hence no volts @ switch.
8. Gently spread plug "tongue" with pliers, contact achieved & volts @ switch, hence volts now getting to sender units. FUEL GAUGE WORKS!
I could have saved hours of work by first checking for voltage directly at sender units on each tank, but no, I had to do it the hard way.
And in the background on the radio, Mark Knopfler was reminding me:
"That ain't working, that's the way you do it. Money for nothin' and chicks for free".
Pete
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Hindsight is always 20/20.
I think you "dun good"
I don't see any problem with your process. No matter what problem you're facing a jumping-off point must be chosen. You dive in and start swimming !
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Cheers
DD
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Jeff H.
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Emil Wojcik
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