Series 3 electrical issues
#21
#22
Nathan,
is it correct that the blowers WERE running ok and all of a sudden they stopped?
if you look on the bottom and side of each blower case, there is a disconnectable 2-wire plug, sort of hidden between the blower cases, vacuum actuators, and the kick panels.
you might find the connectors and disconnect each connector; then check if there is 12 volt power at each connector (with engine running and mode switch set to AUTO).
if there IS power at each connector, then the issue could be the blower(s) motor(s). They do get clogged with grime and stop running. The only way to really find out what is going on inside the blower case, is to remove it, but...
removal of the entire blower case for cleaning and repair is a nightmare and should be a last resort, in which case you need to follow the removal steps exactly as in the Factory Service Manual. I've done it to mine and I also removed the front seats to prevent any accidents and for ease of working is the confined area.
I'm not saying THAT is the problem, but based on my experience and after trying everything else, it turned out to be clogged motors which after a good cleaning, ran like new again.
also inside the case, there are linkages operated by the vacuum actuator that open or closes a double Flap for fresh air and or recirculation. These linkages are held in place by delicate pins that break apart after the plastic deteriorates and the linkage gets "locked" in place aince they are out-of-alignment.
again, not saying THAT is the problem, but if nothing else resolves the problem after testing the blower power connector, or the Mode Switch, it might come to removal of the entire blower case on each side.
is it correct that the blowers WERE running ok and all of a sudden they stopped?
if you look on the bottom and side of each blower case, there is a disconnectable 2-wire plug, sort of hidden between the blower cases, vacuum actuators, and the kick panels.
you might find the connectors and disconnect each connector; then check if there is 12 volt power at each connector (with engine running and mode switch set to AUTO).
if there IS power at each connector, then the issue could be the blower(s) motor(s). They do get clogged with grime and stop running. The only way to really find out what is going on inside the blower case, is to remove it, but...
removal of the entire blower case for cleaning and repair is a nightmare and should be a last resort, in which case you need to follow the removal steps exactly as in the Factory Service Manual. I've done it to mine and I also removed the front seats to prevent any accidents and for ease of working is the confined area.
I'm not saying THAT is the problem, but based on my experience and after trying everything else, it turned out to be clogged motors which after a good cleaning, ran like new again.
also inside the case, there are linkages operated by the vacuum actuator that open or closes a double Flap for fresh air and or recirculation. These linkages are held in place by delicate pins that break apart after the plastic deteriorates and the linkage gets "locked" in place aince they are out-of-alignment.
again, not saying THAT is the problem, but if nothing else resolves the problem after testing the blower power connector, or the Mode Switch, it might come to removal of the entire blower case on each side.
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NathanDD6 (09-08-2015)
#23
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NathanDD6 (09-08-2015)
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That's right.
But....since the climate control isn't working, the compressor won't be engaging, either.
unlike in the XJ-6 which is controlled by a thermal switch and comes on according to a specific temperature.
The V12s have that as well, thus the e-fan is triggered two different ways. I wanna say 94ºC is the trigger point.
Cheers
DD
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NathanDD6 (09-10-2015)
#27
Many thanks JagCad, Jose and Doug
Sorry to have missed your first question there, Jose, indeed the fans were running, and running well, no catching or straining that I could hear, and they didn't slowly get worse or anything, they just stopped.
Doug, the electric fan in the engine bay still works, but only when it is triggered by the temperature sensor in the radiator(?) it does not come on when I turn the fan dial in the car, which I assume it is meant to, can you please point me in the right direction as to where I might find the ignition load relay, I can't find any referance to it in the relay section of the Haynes manual. I'm suspecting a bad connection, I've experienced 2 relays with bad connections already.
Thanks again
Sorry to have missed your first question there, Jose, indeed the fans were running, and running well, no catching or straining that I could hear, and they didn't slowly get worse or anything, they just stopped.
Doug, the electric fan in the engine bay still works, but only when it is triggered by the temperature sensor in the radiator(?) it does not come on when I turn the fan dial in the car, which I assume it is meant to, can you please point me in the right direction as to where I might find the ignition load relay, I can't find any referance to it in the relay section of the Haynes manual. I'm suspecting a bad connection, I've experienced 2 relays with bad connections already.
Thanks again
#28
get rid of the Haynes manual, order the Factory CD from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust
Jaguar Heritage
Jaguar Heritage
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NathanDD6 (09-11-2015)
#29
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On a LHD car the load relay is in the top left corner of LH component panel. And the component panel is below/behind the LH fuse box.
I've never known if Jaguar reversed the LH and RH fuse boxes and component panels dependent on LHD versus RHD. So, if you don't find the load relay on the LH component panel, look on the right component panel !
Cheers
DD
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NathanDD6 (09-11-2015)
#31
#32
in LHD cars the components are mounted above the fuse box, and behind the speedometer and tachometer gauges.
To reach them, press each gauge towards the dash and turn them about 1/4" inch clockwise or counterclockwise to release the gauge, then pull the gauge out complete with wiring. Then you can look thought the round opening where all those relays are located.
**do not press on the gauge's glass, only on the frame edges. I think it was David Boger who said if you put masking tape around the metal frame it makes it easier to maneuver the gauge off.
To reach them, press each gauge towards the dash and turn them about 1/4" inch clockwise or counterclockwise to release the gauge, then pull the gauge out complete with wiring. Then you can look thought the round opening where all those relays are located.
**do not press on the gauge's glass, only on the frame edges. I think it was David Boger who said if you put masking tape around the metal frame it makes it easier to maneuver the gauge off.
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NathanDD6 (09-11-2015)
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NathanDD6 (09-14-2015)
#40
I just checked the relay, it's working perfectly and there is continuity to ground. I read on this forum that there are 4 micro switches that go bad at the fan function/speed selector. Good chance? I suspect this cause the demisting flaps only work when they want to... are they a mission to get to?