Hi Mike,

2.4kg on the bathroom scales.

I wish my weight was a bit closer to that, or at least by that much less!!

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Nigel

 

 

 

 

 

Heh, heh...this is a weird problem. I think the 'fair assessment' boat sailed a long time ago

Unplug the CTS and jump the terminal n the socket with a paper clip. This obviously eliminates the CTS signal and 'tells' the ECU that the engine is warm, regardless of actual temperature. Do this on a warm engine; a cold engine really won't like it. If the behavior changes with the CTS bypassed, you might be hitting paydirt.

Or, just replace the CTS and cross your fingers. Only about $20 and 10 minutes effort so it's not painful as guesses go.

Carefully examine the CTS socket and wires for anything suspicious.

Trying a different ECU would be a guess as well. My theory...ha ha....is that a fault in the ECU is preventing it from recognizing the AFM signal under certain conditions. Used ECUs are not too hard to find....and maybe $100 or so?

Cheers
DD

 

No change with bypassing the CTS...ECU will be up next, I suppose!

 

agreed. my fuel regulator was bad and actually leaking through the vacuum line. however, if it's not regulating properly she will not start good. Ours ran a bit rough if I recall.

 

 

Interesting observation...while testing the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), I discovered that unplugging it has the same effect as sticking the hammer down the throat of the AFM. I assume that unplugging it sends a "bone-cold" signal to the ECU, causing excess fueling. Again, it starts, dies, then I plug it back in and she starts right up. The switch itself seems fine - the resistance reading are within spec at the 3-4 temperatures I've tested it at, but at least I don't have to unscrew intake components and use a hammer!

Got an ECU from David Boger (everydayxj.com), and will probably try that sometime this week.

 

Closing out this thread for now. I got a different ECU, and it did not correct the issue, so I have hot-wired (cold-wired?) the Cold Start Injector to a ground so it always fires when I crank, for as long as I crank, and that provides a solution that appears to work, for starts both hot and cold. Not a solution I was originally hoping for, but very functional and provides what I need until further inspiration strikes.

Huge thank you to everyone who has commented on the thread - I've learned so much about my Jag through troubleshooting this one issue, and am immensely grateful for all the insight this community has provided. Thank you!