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As Jose says, it's easy to repair 'em. Give 'em a good cleaning and you're good to go for another 10-15 years....which might be why nobody (that I know of) has gone to a different type
Yeah, one of my early Jaguar lessons. Not hard at all.
Tools:
1. Two small pans
2. A Pozi or Phillips driver.
4. A flat blade driver
4. Di electric greasre
5. A bit of emery paper or even an old tech rubber pencil eraser/
Process:
Remove the cubby lid. Unscrew the ski slope.
From the underside, disconnect the connector to each switch and the master. Mark or locate each in position to get them back as they were. Caveat, they connect backwards! Switch action will be counter intuitive!!
Depress the clip and remove the switch, one by one. You are there, do them all. Or you might be back!!
Pan one is to remain in the car with the tools and screws.
Got to the bench with the switches. Work over pan 2. Little parts can go astray. Don't ask...
Depress the pivot of the rocker from the side. that will free the rocker to be removed.
You will see blackened contacts on it and down in the switch body. Careful. Those contacts must remain in the proper place and order. Shine them up. A teeny dab of dielectric. Optional, some say no.
Reassemble.
In Jaguarese,. Go to the car assemble in reverse order to the take apart.
Bet they all work slick.
Caveat, make sure the master is oriented and in the on position.
one thing I noticed recently Doug, is that the early Series 2 switches are larger and appear to be heftier than in the late Series 2 and all Series 3.
they also connect with different plugs.
I got a full set of those with a bunch of Series 2 parts I purchased sight unseen.
Jaguar downgraded with the Series III switches. But, still, they're easily repairable. Or even buying new ones isn't all that painful in terms of cost.
Yeah, one of my early Jaguar lessons. Not hard at all.
Tools:
1. Two small pans
2. A Pozi or Phillips driver.
4. A flat blade driver
4. Di electric greasre
5. A bit of emery paper or even an old tech rubber pencil eraser/
Process:
Remove the cubby lid. Unscrew the ski slope.
From the underside, disconnect the connector to each switch and the master. Mark or locate each in position to get them back as they were. Caveat, they connect backwards! Switch action will be counter intuitive!!
Depress the clip and remove the switch, one by one. You are there, do them all. Or you might be back!!
Good write-up, Carl.
After you've done one or two the others are that much easier, of course.
As you say, satisfying. And, IMO, it's easier and faster to just clean the old ones than divine and execute an 'upgrade'
because they are momentary switches with the exception of the Master Switch, any light would be On or Off all the time. Check Ali Express with the switch dimensions and you might find the Chinese make a momentary lighted switch, which is the same as those for an antenna up-down switch.
Jose, If I put in and wire up a mini LED (from like Radio Shack) and hook them all together with a common resistor, and power them from the master window feed that has power whenever the ignition is on, then they should be on at all times. Or I could run a wire from the light switch to power them I suppose. I'm thinking of those mini LED's with a "stepped" lens - kind of what sticks out but sits flush on the surface of vintage stereo equipment. I've got some spare switches lying around - gonna give them a try. Lind of like these:
yes I know exactly what you want to do. I did the same to the Second Gear Hold Switch in my 1965 S type which prevents the transmission from shifting into 3rd gear if one is driving very slow or in bumper to bumper traffic..
The problem I had was that I kept forgetting to turn it off and kept driving in 2nd gear up to 60 mph until I felt the rpm's were too high.
a bright amber LED solved the problem of forgetting to turn the switch to off.
However I still can't see how it would work in momentary spring-to-center switches.
Adding more electrical bits to a vehicle that already has enough wires to circle the globe seems like something only a person infected with the Jaguar bug would do.
Yeah, I find my Jaguar's window switches by feel and intuition. Works jut fine. Well, I do admit that at times, I've unduly alarmed myself when I inadvertently opened the master switch. I've been tempted to reassign it, But, so far, just deal with it.
My Jeep has it's switches on the door. No LEDS to guide me. but, not an issue, easily seen. Or, even found in the dark.
I plan to do all the switches, including the cruise control ones. I'd just like to see something down there in the darkness. The lighting is not for functionality, just for ambiance.
because the ski slope faces the dash and the center console, you might do some testing before drilling holes since those lights could reflect on the dash and the center console.
Yes Jose, The switch illumination Led's would be on any time the main light switch is anywhere other than in the "off" position. The Led's will be very dim so I do not foresee a "glare" issue - I'll have to experiment with the led's in question, but they will be green. It's very much an aesthetic issue.
I switched out all my button bulbs and dash bulbs for LED lights. Couldn't find a local supplier for the bulbs so I used a 10mm led and soldered on a resistor to limit current. Then I used heat shrink tubing to package it and press for them into the original bulb socket holes. It's a very tight for and the rubber keeps then from working loose. Works way better than the original. I used generic off the shelf parts so I can't tell you the brightness or supplier. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 2 watt LED. That works out to 166 milliamperes current per bulb, and a resistor of 72 ohms. For comparison a 2 watt LED should be roughly equivalent to a 25 watt bulb in terms of brightness. You're only going to see a fraction of that however after making it through the filters and mirrors.
a note of caution: if you're going to try this for yourself, then you need to do the calculation for your specific bulb. To much current and your bulb will fry early. To little current, and it might not even light up.
Sorry about the poor quality. Shooting a light in a dark room darkens everything but the source
Sorry about the poor quality. Shooting a light in a dark room darkens everything but the source.
Last edited by Montana Dan; 07-26-2018 at 07:25 PM.
07-21-2018, 07:02 PM
