SIII XJ12 Correct Fuel Setup
#1
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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A 1977 would be a Series II, not Series III....which is probably why everything looks odd to me, as I know nothing about Series II particulars.
The single fuel pump isn't necessarily a problem, I don't think. However, it looks like it has two change-over valves....which seems weird.
I really can't make sense of it. Others will chime in.
Does this help?
Cheers
DD
The single fuel pump isn't necessarily a problem, I don't think. However, it looks like it has two change-over valves....which seems weird.
I really can't make sense of it. Others will chime in.
Does this help?
Cheers
DD
#4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,929
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motorcarman (08-14-2022)
#5
Fuel pump location
Series 3 fuel injection 4.2 just has one fuel pump on the right line this.
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Doug (08-10-2022)
#7
definitely a series 3, correct bumpers, fuel injection, 1985 registered.
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#9
If I was running...
1977XJ5.3,
IF it was running, it would be injectors. 47 years and a coupla previous owners later, I should not claim the trunk fuel set-up is factory original, But the car has not run in decades & some of the trunk fuel hardware still have (had) the little paper Jaguar parts tags.
1977XJ5.3 is yours FI or carbs? If injected, where are you getting replacement injectors?
IF it was running, it would be injectors. 47 years and a coupla previous owners later, I should not claim the trunk fuel set-up is factory original, But the car has not run in decades & some of the trunk fuel hardware still have (had) the little paper Jaguar parts tags.
1977XJ5.3 is yours FI or carbs? If injected, where are you getting replacement injectors?
#10
I think the system is plumbed correctly, I was dumb for assuming it wasn't. Fuel feeds in via the two large tank lines and tees at the first solenoid into the pump so the pump is only ever fed from one tank. The hose out of the pump feeds the block mounted to the trunk wall. The hose at bottom outlet of the block feeds the right line routed towards the engine and the top outlet of the block feeds the hose crossing in front of the spare tire to the tee at the far left. One outlet of this tee feeds the left hose routed towards the engine and the other feeds the second solenoid. That solenoid works with the first to make sure the return side operates with the correct tank.
Last edited by 1977XJ5.3; 08-14-2022 at 11:56 AM.
#11
#13
Some Photos from 1982 SIII 4.2
Sorry, I didn't have time to remove all the coverings to get an overhead shot but you can hopefully piece it together. This is a fuel-injected, UK spec, right hand drive car.
Photo taken from rear. Fuel filter is at the front right hand side of the spare wheel well.
Photo taken from rear. Fuel filter is at the front right hand side of the spare wheel well.
#14
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#17
Here is a picture of my fuel system in the boot. The hose you should use will be rated as "low permeability" and can be found a Marine supply stores, probably other outlets as well.
1/4 turn ball valves between tanks and filters makes replacing a dirty filter much nicer. I removed the change-over valve because it was leaking, replaced with common "T" hose fitting.
1/4 turn ball valves between tanks and filters makes replacing a dirty filter much nicer. I removed the change-over valve because it was leaking, replaced with common "T" hose fitting.
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Coventrywood (08-31-2022)
#19
The factory setup had an electric change-over valve where I have the "T" fitting. When the tank selector switch on the dash was toggled from left/right, it would direct fuel from the appropriate tank to the pump. At the same time, the two return line valves in the rear wheel wells would switch the fuel return to the same tank and the fuel level sender in each tank would change to that same tank.
When that system works, it works fine. When it doesn't work, it's not fine. There are a couple of slightly down sides to putting a T in place of the change-over. No mechanical separation between the two tanks means a leak in one will drain both tanks. If you fill both tanks and park with one side of car higher than the other, the high tank will gravity drain into the lower tank and over-fill it. That's another reason I put ball valves on each tank, I only run on one tank and leave the valve to the other tank shut off. Another irritation with the "T" is when filling one of the tanks, you are really filling both tanks, but that small T can't transfer fuel as fast as the gas pump is filling the tank. This leaves both tanks less than full, unless you wait at the pumps and keep squirting fuel in one or both tanks until they equalize at full.
Dave
When that system works, it works fine. When it doesn't work, it's not fine. There are a couple of slightly down sides to putting a T in place of the change-over. No mechanical separation between the two tanks means a leak in one will drain both tanks. If you fill both tanks and park with one side of car higher than the other, the high tank will gravity drain into the lower tank and over-fill it. That's another reason I put ball valves on each tank, I only run on one tank and leave the valve to the other tank shut off. Another irritation with the "T" is when filling one of the tanks, you are really filling both tanks, but that small T can't transfer fuel as fast as the gas pump is filling the tank. This leaves both tanks less than full, unless you wait at the pumps and keep squirting fuel in one or both tanks until they equalize at full.
Dave