Another shot of the ignition relay with different exposure.


The main ignition relay. It seems to be missing a white and black wire. I've a green and black wire, but I'm not sure it doesn't go to the EFI controller.


The ignition relays. I think the red pecktron is a diode pack, no?
Hi all,
I've inherited a working nightmare from the previous owner. Pretty much restored most of the car now. I had the engine running well a week ago, but it had a rough idle. In my hunt for lose wires, vacuum leaks, and the odd smoking relay I seem to have fixed something, which broke my ignition sequence. The engine starts to turn over, but the fails a second later. I'm thinking it's the ignition inhibit relay, but I'm not sure which one that is. In addition, the wire colors on all my ignition relays don't match the factory wire diagrams. I've got the obvious ones like power and ignition signal, but the ecm interrupt and others are stomping me.

 

The larger metal relay is the starter relay.

Terminal W1
Black/green wire from neutral switch. Ground with gearshift in "P" or "N"
Terminal W2
Double posts with white/yellow wires. Should be 12v "+" with key turned to 'start'
Terminal C2
Solid brown wire, 12v "+" at all times
Terminal C1
White/blue wire, which is not used on the 4.2 FI and is taped off/terminated in the harness
Terminal C4
White/red wire to the starter


More later on the other two relays and the diode pack

Cheers
DD

 

The other two relays:

Fuel pump relay:

Terminal 86
White/purple to diode pack
Terminal 87
White/green to fuel pump
Terminal 87
White/green to oxygen sensor, if fitted; use varies by market
Terminal 85
Ground
Terminal 30
Two white wires, 12v "+" with key 'on'

Note the two '87' terminals as opposed toan '87' and '87a' terminal. This is a "dual 87" relay. Don't replace with an 87/87a relay.


Main relay:

Terminal 86
White wire, 12v "+" with key 'on'
Terminal 87
Brown/slate wires, 12v "+" to injector resistor pack
Terminal 85
Black, ground
Terminal 30
Brown, 12 "+" constant


Make sure this is all OK and we can dig deeper from there. The problem might be using an "87/87a" relay in place of a "dual 87" relay

More on red diode pack if needed

Make sure the bundle of 5-6 black grounds wires at rear of water rail is clean and secure

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the info. I'll check it out later tonight when I'm at the shop. The factory diagrams from jag, seemed to indicate a different connection. If it's the neutral switch then I'd feel much more at ease. I'll payp what I find.

 

In one of the sticky threads at the top of this section you'll find a link for the "S57 Wiring Guide". That's what you want.

Cheers
DD

 

Okay guys, thank you for the help. I managed to put the relays all back together and everything is working perfectly. I traced the problem to my ignition switch. The back end seems to have come off of it. Does anybody know what to do about this? I'm thinking that I need to remove the ignition switch and rebuild it. Has anybody done this? When I try to turn the ignition, I get no electrical contacts., And the little spring motion that restores the key back to the running position doesn't seem to work.

then theres the fact that the back side where all the wires are mounted has about 3mm of slop/lash/slip

 

Hi guys, I figured it out. I rebuilt the switch from components from another car. I'll post the specifics tomorrow. The engine runs now, albeit roughly.
i still need to figure out why it's not idling correctly.
In reexamining my relays, I did discover that my fuel pump relay had been replaced with an 87/87a or whatever that designation (wish I could reference the old posts while I write this). DD mentioned that it should be a 87/87 I think. II think this does something with the maf oxygen sensor?

 

Hi guys,
sorry it's been a few days and I haven't sat down and sorted my info on how I fixed the ignition yet. However, I have a new/old problem. I can't get the brake lights to come on and the bulb failure lights are also no coming on. I've checked almost everything except the bulb failure unit. As far as I know, it's a big black box on the diagram that does something mysterious... LoL. I don't see the point of it. Does anyone know how I would go about testing it? I really want to cut it out and rewire the circuit to be stupider/simpler... But better instinct tell me I should be patient and just fix it.

 

The bulb failure unit for the brake lamps is on the forward bulkhead of the luggage compartment.

Terminal B
Green/purple wire from brake light switch. Should show 12v when the brake pedal is pressed. If not, look for an upstream problem

Terminal L
There are two terminals marked "L". They are output to the brake lamp bulbs themselves. Also green/purple wires.
If you have input at Terminal B but no output at the "L" terminals, the bulb failure unit is defective.

Note: if you have a factory installed upper brake light it gets is voltage from Terminal B. Operation of the upper light is independent of the bulb failure unit.

Terminals E and WL operate the warning bulb on the dashboard and have no bearing on the operation of brake lamps themselves.

You can bypass the bulb failure unit by removing all the green/purple wires and joining them together.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug, I replaced all the bulb failure units anyway. They looked kind of sketchy and at the end of their lifespan. I suspect I have an upstream problem. Kind of worried. I just finished replacing all the carpet and the brake switch is working fine. I suspect my problem is at connection cp7 since I am not getting any Joy with the brakes or reverse, or turn signals. If I'm reading my diagrams right cp7 is the only place all those systems have in common. I think that connection is under all the carpet I just glued down.

 

I think you meant to say CP9 --- in the console.

CP7 is inside the door.

Quite a rats nest in the console; lots of stuff.

Cheers
DD