here is another firm that might be of help: Martin Robey UK but you have to call them on the phone.

https://www.martinrobey.com/jaguar/x.../xj12-series-3

 

Thank you, I will keep this in mind.

Yes. I agree. But I cannot find such a mechanic in Naples!

Thank you. I checked and they have the unit for exchange here but it is way pricier than David Manners (GBP225 + VAT) at €658 + VAT. They do not have the pump but they carry the cooler at 491 + VAT.

Patience is the only asset that I have plenty of, hence my investigation on this forum! Thank you for the encouraging words!

Regards, Tommaso

 

Hi
I solved this problem and i published all what I did but I don't know how to find it on this forum if you or some one can help me that will solve your problem and if you want to contact me by watsapp I can explain all don't worry I don't sell any thing

 

I'm not an expert in how to move around in the Forum, but at the upper right of the section home page is a Thread Search box. I would just put your forum name, search threads, and it will be in the list that's generated.

Dave

 

Hi
I wish it was more simple to work on this site for me but it a lot of answer on your problem my posts on this problem that i solved for good posted
on september 2/2018 #28 my user name is shtekler hope you can find all of them and if you have a specific question just ask good luck

 

I've been following this thread with interest and empathy. Trying to find a good, honest, capable, mechanic is even harder than finding the car in the first place! The same problem also exists in the U.S. and even the expenditure of money can't always guarantee good results. I have always been the kind of guy that will do it myself as much as possible but I understand that not everyone has that option. The members of this forum are a great resource. Best of luck to you Tomasso

 

There are 3 reasons for leak oil for power rack
1- old jag that dried out from no use
2- mixing mineral green oil with there RED one that will just eat the seals
3- high pressure from the pump usually happens when you replace the steering pump or you send it to rebuild

 

Sorry, I was sure that I'd found the part in the JLR list, however now when I search I can't find CBC 1715.

Incidentally, I think that I mentioned that I shipped my Daimler from Italy to the UK a few years ago. It cost about £ 2,000. Since it avoided the travel costs of me driving it (fuel, hotel, ...), it was acceptable at the time. Put into the context of how much you may well end up spending on restoration, it may be worth considering in your case, especially as you are moving to England. We have several good people for repairing and restoring series 3 XJs and you could visit them in the course of the work. And you'd have the pleasure of using it here for a while and before driving it back to Napoli.

David Marks charged me £ 250 a year or so ago for an exchange steering rack, so the price from Manners sound good.

 

I don't know if it worth the time I would recommend you to buy a refurbish one from RockAuto be sure it one rebuild only by BBB

 

I found your thread #28 of 9/2/18 but as I understand it, it is related to a XJ-40 Series, not to the 1992 Series 3 V12 which is what Tommaso has. The 1992 XJ-40 12 cylinder has a different power steering system. In that same thread, member Doug clarified it.

 

@ Jose and anyone who has knowledge about refurbishments

How important is what parts (O-rings, seals, pistons, etc) are replaced inside a steering rack when it is refurbished? If you were in my position, would you still go local? In my city local refurbishers are likely to not use OEM but rather adapt OSP from other applications. They have very good track record of racks not failing again but I don't know if that is due to luck or because adapting O-rings from other applications is just as good.

Regards, Tommaso

 

Thank you. Yes, you understood my challenge perfectly.

The south of Italy's culture was shaped by centuries of challenging conditions and developed an attitude of practical self solving skills that is awesome when you have no alternative but not as good when you can access correct parts and information proven to deliver the correct result.

Besides, individuals themselves tend to believe that they know better than the next person and easily become upset if one offer advice or information (for example obtained on this forum). This is true in any field but even more so in the car repair industry, as they feel insulted or diminished by advice. Mechanics greatly resent when the client gives precise instructions and I have been told, as recently as last week, that if I want to torque bolts to specifications, I will have to provide the data but they cannot guarantee as they are not into reparing classics. This was the OFFICIAL Jaguar dealership!

The problem is not about brands or specific circumstances or industries. This is a cultural problem.

Worse still, if the client wants to check the repair (I ask for the old part to be put aside, I ask for the box of the new spare, the invoice for the new part, I mark bolts with markers, I recheck the torque [where I can] and other similar behaviours) the client is asked to not return to that shop. I burned myself with all the 'best' workshops of my area and I am considered a pain the A**. One workshop owner calls me the 'torque-guy' and estimates higher rates for the same job than other customers, because of the extra time that it requires him to work on my car as I tend to visit the workshop on a daily basis to ensure that he uses the appropriate parts and specs...

A nightmare!

This is why I am desperately looking for a Jag specialist or considering the option to replace whole systems, rather than repairing the items that failed. Replacing requires less skills than repairing. Given the environment, it seems the safer option. This, in turn, generates higher costs and the need to save as much as I can.

 

it is important to use the correct parts no matter what you are rebuilding. A rebuilder will know that and will use the correct parts no matter who makes the parts.

there are Alternative parts that have the same specifications as the original parts and can be used as substitutes. Rebuilding parts is not a perfect or absolute science.

every mechanic has his or her bag of tricks to make repairs in old cars. Your Daimler steering system is not much different from the Jaguar steering system.

The point here is that nobody knows where the leak is in your car. Replacing all the parts to fix an unknown leak does not make any sense.

How do you know the rack or the pump or the hoses are leaking ? Have you seen the leak yourself? Why rebuild a rack if the leak is from a hose? Why replace a hose if a leak is at the rack? Why replace a Saginaw pump when those pumps rarely go bad? ( I checked and the pump in your Daimler is the same Saginaw pump used in all Series 3 XJ-6 AND XJ-12.

There is a saying in USA: "Leave Dirty, Dirty Enough"… and another saying: " If it is not broken, don't fix it". i am sure those are universal.

So you need to start by finding out what is leaking and from where, then you can repair the problem.

 

In this area, if the customer brings the parts they want installed, the shop will install those parts, making a note of such on the invoice. Sometimes this effects the final cost as shops here count on a certain mark-up to add to the bottom line.

However, I do this quite a lot; bring them the exact parts I want installed, and let the final numbers fall where they may. Because, you're right. Normally shops will use the most economical replacement parts they can get unless customer specifies otherwise.

In your shoes, which I'm not, I would take my rack and my seal kit to a repair shop with a good reputation, meet them face to face, present them with the whole lot and see if they will do the job. At worst they say No, and you're no worse off than now.

If you use a Local shop, you can go back to them Face to Face and have better chance for resolution of a problem later.
(';')

 

Where is the puddle under the car? That will go a long way In telling you what area the leak is, like Jose said earlier, only a few spots the racks itself can leak, my hoses were toast and were perforated for lack of a better word, like tiny bubble along whole high pressure hose!

 

In a steering rack, anything rubber should be replaced, everything metal should be checked for wear. The replacement parts in rubber don't need to have a Jaguar badge on the package. In fact, all that's necessary is that they are the correct size and shape and the correct material to resist the fluids they seal and the loads and displacements that they carry. I don't believe that many of them should be unusual or unique to the Adwest rack. The same goes for rubber hoses. The hoses require the correct end fittings, but a serious re-conditioner shouldn't have a problem to organise that.

All countries have too many mechanics who claim to be expert while they actually know very little and compound it all by being somewhat dishonest and incapable of admitting that they made a mistake. The people who work in Jaguar dealerships are certainly not immune to these shortcomings. I've come up against some with dealers in England and Holland. To be fair, the most extreme cases I've met have been outside the dealer network. The fact that I'm a very qualified professional engineer doesn't seem to stop them trying things on and telling the most crazy stories. Overall, these are the reasons that I've been going back to David Marks for 30 years. He's extremely competent and honest and on the rare occasions that he gets something wrong he tells me. He assumes responsibility and we work things out between us.

 

Tommaso, I know that all of us who are responding to your posts have an understanding of what you are facing. But I feel there is still the nagging question in our minds of "where is the leak". This fundamental question has been asked more than once, and I've not seen a response from you. Looking under the car to see if there is a relatively large puddle of oil, that wasn't there before you filled the reservoir, has to be something you can do.

I have a decent level of mechanical ability and am nearly done with a complete rebuild (not restoration) of my 1985 XJ6. I had never even ridden in a Jaguar before I found this one and decided to make it a project. I have done all the work on the rebuild myself except the engine machine work, the transmission rebuild, custom driveshaft, and welding the exhaust system. It will be nearly 3 years when I'm done. I rebuilt my rack and feel confident that it will function well for many years to come. I'm not implying that you should do the same, not at all. But it is something a competent person can accomplish. Here are the items I used in my rebuild. The seal kit was not purchased from the vendor in the link, they just had the best picture of the kit. I have no affiliation with any wholesale/retail vendors. The cost of parts for the rebuild is very modest, in my opinion.

I wish you luck.

Dave

https://www.jagshop.co.uk/shop/produ...l-kit-jlm10834

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...6&newYmme=true

 

Tangential..but pretty pix. My refurb rack from Coventry West near Atlanta just showed up. $395 plus core which I will recover when I send the old girl back.

Disregard zip ties on boots. Cost cutting and I replace with clamps.

Also got refurb P/S pump for $149 plus core.

Just have to degrease my engine/bay like crazy before putting all my new shiny bits in place

Randy

 

Randy, that is a thing of beauty!
First photo, not second.
(';')

 

If they have a very good track record it probably isn't luck. It's probably experience and skill. And it's probably safe to assume they know what parts to use and where to source them ......to ensure a very good track record.

And it's possible that they're getting parts that are superior to OEM.

And as someone (Jose?) mentioned, the seal kits we buy today from Jaguar as "OEM" may not be true OEM. That is, not manufactured by the same company that made them 25-30-40 years ago. I've come across this scenario with parts I've ordered as OEM. Jaguar package and part number....but the part is clearly not the same.

Cheers
DD