Steering wheel done by Saul at British Autowood
#1
The following 3 users liked this post by Jose:
#2
Gorgeous wheel. British Autowood does beautiful work.
I have a stock wheel on my ‘87 VDP. It’s in great shape but I don’t love how overly large it is and how thin it is. Are there any wood options that are a little smaller but with a bigger grip that still allow you to see the instruments? I’d like an actual Jaguar wheel maybe from another model or at least an after market wheel that has a Jaguar logo. Do wheels from later model XJS’s fit?
I have a stock wheel on my ‘87 VDP. It’s in great shape but I don’t love how overly large it is and how thin it is. Are there any wood options that are a little smaller but with a bigger grip that still allow you to see the instruments? I’d like an actual Jaguar wheel maybe from another model or at least an after market wheel that has a Jaguar logo. Do wheels from later model XJS’s fit?
#3
yes, that is the same reason I replaced the steering wheels in both my XJ-6 and S type, they are too thin and too big.
The 1988 thru 1992 V12 engined Series 3 XJ (not the XJ-40) came with a different, smaller and thick grip steering wheel. It was also used in the 1989 XJ-S. They are quite rare and expensive if you can find one. I recently installed one in my XJ and it is a very comfortable steering wheel, and the two spokes are comfortably at 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock, which means you can see the gauges. It is 1" inch smaller in diameter, (16"), and covered in leather. It uses the same horn contact as our XJ-6s, a very simple installation, no modification, zero, nada. Recently saw one in white leather selling for $475.00 in Craigslist advertised as "XJS Deluxe Steering Wheel".
The 1988 thru 1992 V12 engined Series 3 XJ (not the XJ-40) came with a different, smaller and thick grip steering wheel. It was also used in the 1989 XJ-S. They are quite rare and expensive if you can find one. I recently installed one in my XJ and it is a very comfortable steering wheel, and the two spokes are comfortably at 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock, which means you can see the gauges. It is 1" inch smaller in diameter, (16"), and covered in leather. It uses the same horn contact as our XJ-6s, a very simple installation, no modification, zero, nada. Recently saw one in white leather selling for $475.00 in Craigslist advertised as "XJS Deluxe Steering Wheel".
Last edited by Jose; 02-15-2019 at 05:10 AM.
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XJDanny (02-15-2019)
#8
#10
I know they came on the 1989 XJS if you can find one of those being parted out. As Jose said, my understanding is they also came on the late Series III Vanden Plas V12 models, perhaps 1990-92.
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XJDanny (02-15-2019)
#11
#12
I have been advocating the use of this wheel in place of the skinny earlier wheel for almost 20 years because this wheel, being thicker and of smaller diameter, transforms the driving experience. And that is without mentioning that it is far more handsome (and an authentic Series III) wheel. I regularly put this wheel on my restorations of the pre-1990 saloons for the reasons just stated.
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davidboger (03-05-2019)
#13
#14
Thank you for the offer in this wheel. I really like the late Series III wheel you suggested, which also came on the ‘89 XJS. I’ll look for one of those. I like the grips at 10 and 2 and I like the fact it’s a Series III wheel.
Danny
#15
#17
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I don't plan on any steering wheel change on my 83! It may not be optimum, but I like itr
I'm not a fan of the smaller diameter. I just grew up on bus style wheels. Pre PS days.
But, I am impressed with the increased visibility of the instruments in the optional wheels,
I did errands yesterday,. weather issues, so I drove the Jeep. It's information panel has gone nuts!!! But it purred. Still shiny, tight and good looking at 200K +. Vintage 94...
I did fire up the lumped Jaguar. Durn near instant start. .Let it idle at first, 1000, then it settled down to it's 500. Smooth. Nice V8 purr to my ears.
Carl
Carl
I'm not a fan of the smaller diameter. I just grew up on bus style wheels. Pre PS days.
But, I am impressed with the increased visibility of the instruments in the optional wheels,
I did errands yesterday,. weather issues, so I drove the Jeep. It's information panel has gone nuts!!! But it purred. Still shiny, tight and good looking at 200K +. Vintage 94...
I did fire up the lumped Jaguar. Durn near instant start. .Let it idle at first, 1000, then it settled down to it's 500. Smooth. Nice V8 purr to my ears.
Carl
Carl
#19
yes, that is the same reason I replaced the steering wheels in both my XJ-6 and S type, they are too thin and too big.
The 1988 thru 1992 V12 engined Series 3 XJ (not the XJ-40) came with a different, smaller and thick grip steering wheel. It was also used in the 1989 XJ-S. They are quite rare and expensive if you can find one. I recently installed one in my XJ and it is a very comfortable steering wheel, and the two spokes are comfortably at 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock, which means you can see the gauges. It is 1" inch smaller in diameter, (16"), and covered in leather. It uses the same horn contact as our XJ-6s, a very simple installation, no modification, zero, nada. Recently saw one in white leather selling for $475.00 in Craigslist advertised as "XJS Deluxe Steering Wheel".
The 1988 thru 1992 V12 engined Series 3 XJ (not the XJ-40) came with a different, smaller and thick grip steering wheel. It was also used in the 1989 XJ-S. They are quite rare and expensive if you can find one. I recently installed one in my XJ and it is a very comfortable steering wheel, and the two spokes are comfortably at 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock, which means you can see the gauges. It is 1" inch smaller in diameter, (16"), and covered in leather. It uses the same horn contact as our XJ-6s, a very simple installation, no modification, zero, nada. Recently saw one in white leather selling for $475.00 in Craigslist advertised as "XJS Deluxe Steering Wheel".
They were only used in 1989 on the XJS and on the 1988-1992 Series III V12’s. I can’t believe I was actually able to find one and it’s new in the box from Paul’s Jaguar. It was the last one they had. Jeremy, who was so nice to work with, told me Paul’s Jaguar bought all of Jaguar’s remaining stock several years ago and this was the last one they had. I am so excited to put it on and get rid of that stock bus steering wheel. Are the stock steering wheels very valuable? Mine is in mint condition. Whether it is or it isn’t, I’ll probably decide to keep it since it is stock.
I understand it’s an easy to remove my steering wheel and install the new one but I don’t know how and couldn’t find any steps on how to do it in this forum or online. Can anyone help?
#20
it;s very easy to remove, but go to my website and download the Service Manual sections, Interior I think is where it is.
First park the car with the wheels straight ahead and lock the steering whee in place. It should be even / level on both sides of each spoke.
then use a pozidrive or phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws in the back of the spokes area. then pull the horn cover completely, it's one piece with a brass contact behind.
then unscrew the cream-color nut-Rod. That is the Horn Contact, be very gentle, it should be snug, not tightened. If you cannot unscrew it by hand, use pliers or a socket to unscrew it counterclockwise. When it is loose enough to unscrew by hand, pull the Nut-Rod carefully out. It is a long plastic rod.
Then you will see the big nut that holds the steering wheel to the splined shaft. The shaft has many splines, you need to be careful when inserting the new steering wheel unto the splined shaft so they are not damaged.
to remove the shaft nut, you need a proper size Long Socket for a 3/8" inch ratchet, a 3 inch long 3/8" inch extension, and a large 3/8" ratchet
you grab the steering wheel with one hand and with the other you unscrew the nut. You don't want to put a lot of force on the steering wheel LOCK, don't force it, that's why you hold the steering wheel with one hand.
loosen the nut about halfway out but don't remove it. Leave it screwed.
now try to to push the steering wheel off the shaft by smacking it as near the center of the spokes area from behind with your palms. It should give and because the nut is still in place, the wheel won't hit you in the face if it comes out at speed!
once the wheel is loose from the spline, remove the nut and washer if there is a washer, and pull it off the spline. That's it!
Now take the new steering wheel without the spokes / horn cover on it, and gently place it over the spline in the position you want. If you need, hit the center of the spokes area to push it into the splined shaft, especially if it is new, it will go in tight.
Make sure it goes in EASY, if it doesn't want to go in, move it a spline to the left or to the right, it is usually one tiny spline that is stubborn. Once it is in and you can see the shaft's Thread, place the washer and nut and screw it with socket and ratchet, slowly pushing the wheel back to maximum. Good luck!
First park the car with the wheels straight ahead and lock the steering whee in place. It should be even / level on both sides of each spoke.
then use a pozidrive or phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws in the back of the spokes area. then pull the horn cover completely, it's one piece with a brass contact behind.
then unscrew the cream-color nut-Rod. That is the Horn Contact, be very gentle, it should be snug, not tightened. If you cannot unscrew it by hand, use pliers or a socket to unscrew it counterclockwise. When it is loose enough to unscrew by hand, pull the Nut-Rod carefully out. It is a long plastic rod.
Then you will see the big nut that holds the steering wheel to the splined shaft. The shaft has many splines, you need to be careful when inserting the new steering wheel unto the splined shaft so they are not damaged.
to remove the shaft nut, you need a proper size Long Socket for a 3/8" inch ratchet, a 3 inch long 3/8" inch extension, and a large 3/8" ratchet
you grab the steering wheel with one hand and with the other you unscrew the nut. You don't want to put a lot of force on the steering wheel LOCK, don't force it, that's why you hold the steering wheel with one hand.
loosen the nut about halfway out but don't remove it. Leave it screwed.
now try to to push the steering wheel off the shaft by smacking it as near the center of the spokes area from behind with your palms. It should give and because the nut is still in place, the wheel won't hit you in the face if it comes out at speed!
once the wheel is loose from the spline, remove the nut and washer if there is a washer, and pull it off the spline. That's it!
Now take the new steering wheel without the spokes / horn cover on it, and gently place it over the spline in the position you want. If you need, hit the center of the spokes area to push it into the splined shaft, especially if it is new, it will go in tight.
Make sure it goes in EASY, if it doesn't want to go in, move it a spline to the left or to the right, it is usually one tiny spline that is stubborn. Once it is in and you can see the shaft's Thread, place the washer and nut and screw it with socket and ratchet, slowly pushing the wheel back to maximum. Good luck!
Last edited by Jose; 03-03-2019 at 06:19 PM.
The following users liked this post:
XJDanny (03-03-2019)