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I think the rim of this steering wheel looks right at home in the cockpit. The center (horn button) was quickly tossed together using a familiar part. It might become part of the resto-mod of the XJC. Thoughts?
I’m glad you agree it looks British...it’s heritage is much less distinguished (Mazda). I’ve got to work out a solution for the center and horn, but l like the minimalist look.
I like the spokes. Remind me of my old Fords. The brown rim, not so much. But, over all, I could learn to like it. I sure do appreciate the better view of the instruments.
But, not a sign of padding. Not that great an issue. Or is it!!!
Yes...it’s a center cap...and no...the 1975 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo donor spline is not a match, but the wheel hole diameter is smaller, so it’s a simple fix to machine it to fit.
so a new larger spline can be machined as long as it is smaller than the shaft's spline?
I want to fit a 1992 XJ-12 steering wheel to my 1965 S type, but the S type's shaft is larger / wider diameter, in other words, the steering wheel from the XJ-12 will not go into the S type's column shaft, the splined hole is smaller than the column shaft.
So...first the disclaimer: I am not a machinist, a metallurgist, nor an engineer. I’m not qualified to advocate for using anything other than OEM steering wheels on OEM shafts. 🙂 That said, there’s nothing mysterious or magical about mating male and female splines. If they don’t match, one or both splines need to be modified to match, usually a process that involves careful boring, and then the application of both heat and pressure. My OPINION is it is much easier to modify the splines on the steering wheel, and certainly less catastrophic if you screw it up. I would NEVER attempt to modify the splines on the steering shaft.
I'm not an engineer either but took engineering classes when I was majoring in Industrial Design. At that time (a very long time ago) female splines were cut using a machine called a broach. The correct size hole was bored and then a tool was pressed in that cut the splines. Not unlike a how a tap cuts threads. The problem is that it is a huge hydraulic press that pushes the tool in with tons of pressure. So they are commonly set up for large production runs. I've never known anyone that had the ability to cut them individually.
That being said, there are other ways like using a key or pin. Call me crazy but a steering wheel doesn't get much torque applied, especially with power steering so I would investigate possibly using epoxy. There are some companies that can supply spline shaft bushings or adapters. Just my two cents.
That would work for you since you want the old style of steering wheel of the S type, MK-2, 420, etc., in your Series 3 XJ.
but trying to fit a 1968-on small splined steering wheel into the larger splined shaft of the old models above is impossible unless the steering wheel's splined hole is enlarged and re-splined.
the MG-B and the Jaguar E-type used the same identical horn button assembly.
The MG-B from 1962 to 1970, and the E type from ? to 1970. British Leyland days sharing parts. The only difference was the emblem.
Yes, an adapter or bushing would be used to connect a small diameter shaft to a larger diameter wheel. If the other way around you would need to drill the hole on the wheel to a larger diameter and then cut the spline. As you know, when using a tap to cut threads, the first row of threads barely cuts, the next row cuts a little bit more, etc until the tap has cut the proper depth and then it turns easily. The spline cutting tool works like that, it's tapered and cuts deeper as it is pushed in. But it takes enormous pressure to push it through to cut the material. Brass is softer and easier to cut than steel but a hydraulic press is needed in either case.
the MG-B and the Jaguar E-type used the same identical horn button assembly.
The MG-B from 1962 to 1970, and the E type from ? to 1970. British Leyland days sharing parts. The only difference was the emblem.
And a little bit more.........
The ash tray on the centre tunnel of the E-type is the same one as fitted to my little MG Midget. Except Jaguar put a little leaper on the lid !!
my dream car was the MG-A Coupé but I couldn't afford one so I made mine a Coupé with the fiberglass top from AAMCO, the boot rack, Talbot bullet door mirrors, and rubber mats.
I loved the chromed waist moldings of the MG-B. They just snapped on and off, replaced them many times because people dinged them with their car doors.
1. Search You tube. Broach process. I saw one machinist cutting key ways by the broach process. Imagine a toothed tool going up and down and in. Same process but with a different tool. Cutting v's or notches..
2. My one and only brand new car that I ever bought. 53 MG TD. Had tons of fun in it. I was stationed in Germany at the time. No heater or radio. cold, aye. but no more than my business ride, a Jeep!!
Carl, smiles are kind of rare these days but your comments about your MG brought a smile to my face. I can just see you ripping up the back roads in Germany back in that long ago time. When I was in college I had an MGA. It had a heater such as it was but the top would bulge up when driving fast and creat a gap between the top of the windshield and the front top bow. Snow would blast in through that gap and hit me square in the eyes. I had to wear chemistry goggles to drive when it snowed.
04-09-2020, 12:58 PM
