Switching solenoid bypass
#1
Switching solenoid bypass
My series 3 xj6 is only running off one tank. That's how i bought it.Apparently the solenoid died & wasn't replaced, left tank was left idle. Can i do without the solenoid & just run out of both tanks by adding a T piece into the fuel lines?
Has anyone done it & if so how successful was it?
Has anyone done it & if so how successful was it?
#2
I have read before if you do that and park the car on an angle with full tanks the higher tank will drain to the lower tank and overflow. I don't know if it is true but the theory sounds right.
I was at this place recently, he had a couple of series II or III's he was wrecking.
https://www.google.com.au/#q=jaguar%...07976732603025
I was at this place recently, he had a couple of series II or III's he was wrecking.
https://www.google.com.au/#q=jaguar%...07976732603025
Last edited by o1xjr; 05-21-2016 at 01:07 AM.
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Rickxj6 (05-26-2016)
#3
#4
Best thing to do is figure out why the left tank was isolated.. Chances are there is more at play than just the solenoid.
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..
Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..
Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
Last edited by davidboger; 05-22-2016 at 12:15 PM.
#5
Best thing to do is figure out why the left tank was isolated.. Chances are there is more at play than just the solenoid.
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..
Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..
Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
#6
Yeah it sounds as though they didn't intend for it to be used.
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
#7
Yeah it sounds as though they didn't intend for it to be used.
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
Trending Topics
#9
If you go down this path you could consider having the door/boot/fuel locks keyed alike, I had mine done - much more user friendly!
#10
In OZ that equates to about 45 litres each. If i get the fuel cell custom made I can have any capacity i want but i want to keep some space in the boot/trunk.
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (05-25-2016)
#11
These locks are pretty basic to work with. The two fuel cap locks are keyed alike (assuming both are original) so if you do want to access the LH tank to restore or replace it, a locksmith should be able to cut a key to fit the barrel on your RH lock. As the RH one is already unlocked, the barrel is easy to remove for this purpose.
If you go down this path you could consider having the door/boot/fuel locks keyed alike, I had mine done - much more user friendly!
If you go down this path you could consider having the door/boot/fuel locks keyed alike, I had mine done - much more user friendly!
#12
I used the kit from Johnscars to lump my car. It included a
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.
Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.
Using both would be an ideal.
Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!
Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!
Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?
My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...
Carl
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.
Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.
Using both would be an ideal.
Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!
Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!
Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?
My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...
Carl
#13
I used the kit from Johnscars to lump my car. It included a
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.
Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.
Using both would be an ideal.
Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!
Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!
Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?
My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...
Carl
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.
Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.
Using both would be an ideal.
Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!
Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!
Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?
My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...
Carl
#14
Thanks for this thread Rick, I was on the verge of redoing the plumbing in my boot (new rubber basically and keeping the solenoids). While I am there it seems almost silly (given my car is a LUMP anyway so maintaining originality is not an issue) not moving to the T and check valves for simplicity.
Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
#15
#16
Thanks for this thread Rick, I was on the verge of redoing the plumbing in my boot (new rubber basically and keeping the solenoids). While I am there it seems almost silly (given my car is a LUMP anyway so maintaining originality is not an issue) not moving to the T and check valves for simplicity.
Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
#17
#18
We have success, i now have a key that fits EVERYTHING, well except for the drivers door that has been screw drivered & is too bad to repair.
Anyone have any ideas where i might find another one?
Second hand is fine as long as it works, they seem to be rarer than rocking horse dung.
#19
Just back from having the car at the locksmith this arvo.
We have success, i now have a key that fits EVERYTHING, well except for the drivers door that has been screw drivered & is too bad to repair.
Anyone have any ideas where i might find another one?
Second hand is fine as long as it works, they seem to be rarer than rocking horse dung.
We have success, i now have a key that fits EVERYTHING, well except for the drivers door that has been screw drivered & is too bad to repair.
Anyone have any ideas where i might find another one?
Second hand is fine as long as it works, they seem to be rarer than rocking horse dung.
AJG Spares(Jaguar/Jeep/Landrover)Yellow Pages® | Your Local Australian Business Directory, recently relocated from Brisbane to Esk, very helpful. Used him a lot over the last 15 years with Jeeps, and now the Jag.
Jaguar Parts Melbourne - JagAyre Leading Independent Jaguar Specialist - Jaguar Parts Melbourne Jag Parts Melbourne Jag Repairs Melbourne, Gary also very helpful.
Jaguar Spare Parts Supplier - Jag Prestige Spares- H/H Prestige Spares - Australia's Largest Independant - Used Land Rover Discovery Spare Parts, speak to Phil.
#20