Some of you know my rusted gas tanks issue. I'm going to buy replacement tanks but have to wait till The end of January. I have a gas jug in the trunk and my hose to my fuel pump down in it. I know its a fire hazard but I'm wanting to use my holiday time off to get it running better. Not going to be driving it this way, its just for starting and idling. There are two lines coming into the left front of the spare tire well. I have the pump and fuel filter plumbed into the 3 way junction block like stock. I started the car and it ran for a few minutes but refilled the left tank that I already had drained. So, for my weekend driveway tuning and cleaning, do I need the small port (1/4") on the fuel junction block plugged? Maybe remove 3 way junction block and pump line to filter and filter to bigger line coming into spare tire well? I assume all fuel injected vehicles have a return. Its running a bit rough so replacing plugs, wires, O2 sensor, cap, rotor, etc. Also replacing all fuel injector rubber hoses. Help!

 

You are right.

Doing what you are will have fuel returning to the selected tank.

It must have the return fuel system operating or the system will over pressure. Remember that at idle about 80% of the supply fuel is returned to the tank.

Lengthen the return hose before it exits the LH side of the engine bay, and run it into another container, thus keeping the fuel from going to the damaged tanks.

You could use a real LONG hose and take it all the way to the jug in the trunk, your choice.

 

Thank you Grant.

 

The fuel return line is on the drivers side? I thought I found it today but it went to vapor canister.

 

I talk LH and RH as if sitting IN the car facing forward, then there is no confusion, maybe.

The fuel return line exits the engine bay under where I reckon your brake booster is mounted. It is a 10mm PIPE, and is clearly visible on the RHD cars.

Look on the other side of the engine bay, and you will see the supply pipe, and then mirror that to the LH side, and there it is. Remove the hose, extend it to your hearts content and enjoy.

 

I started using a completely isolated (gas can) out of the car when bypassing the tanks for starting/testing purposes.
The supply line from the tanks feeds into the fuel rail just in front of the battery on the right side (LHD cars). After disconnecting that line, I run another from a fuel tank, with a pump also inline, so that it pulls fuel from the (gas can) directly to the fuel rail.
The return line exits on the LHS just behind the fuel cooler, which is at the rear of the air conditioning compressor. I remove that line, and connect a long line that will go across the engine, and back to my (gas can).
Now the fuel can make a complete loop through the system, but the fuel tanks on the car are completely isolated, and the fuel is being pulled and returned to the (gas can).

To power the fuel pump, I run lines from the battery directly the fuel pump that I've incorporated into the supply line.
Then I also install a remote start switch to the starter relay, so that when the key is switched on in the car, I can control the starter from the remote starter switch.
That way every thing that I'm doing can be done outside the car, and I can control the power to the fuel pump and starter, all while keeping an eye on the (gas can).

The reason that I started doing that was because a long while back I had tried the (gas can) in the trunk method, and somehow the (gas can) tilted and caused a fuel spill. I was at the front of the car and didn't realize it. At the same time, I had a spark from the connections on the fuel pump, and the car caught fire. It ruined the entire car, and got hot enough to melt the back seat and break the rear glass.
Now I like having everything by me (including a fire extinguisher) so that I can keep an eye on everything.

( I parenthesised gas can because my actual setup is more of a fuel cell)

Hope that helps a bit...
Cheers
David
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