The old brake fluid reservoir with the blue hose that is connected to both ends can be removed entirely. You have a later model master cylinder with it's own reservoir now.

 

Air cleaner size and thickness is what counts... just measure the diameter and how much room there is from bottom to the top under the lid... go to a auto parts store with the assembly and try various filters. You make need a "drop" type bottom to have enough clearance under the hood... there may be a gauze type filter in there as well.

 

A GM radiator, AC condenser and their electric dual fans just "bolt" into the Jaguar... (just buy some GM "isolators - the little rubber pieces you can see on the top of the front suspension) you can then get rid of all that funny hose with the radiator cap. This setup is cheap and will last "forever" and all just clips together per GM engineering.. go to JaguarSpecialities website and see his conversion hints (Andrew). Then you can use normal hoses and parts that are available anywhere when you need them the next time..

You would have to cut a hole for the cap in the radiator cross over piece (the piece is from a S3 to get the needed upper portion for the K&N filter being used... Then seal up all the holes in the front and sides of the radiator to direct all the air into the radiator... Jaguars keep all the engine heat under the hood and good engine cooling is needed. Note the dense AC foam that is stuffed into top hole of the radiator to seal the air incoming... the side pieces are just heavy metal screwed into the sides and bent to fit.

Be sure to get new trans lines or convert the old metal lines with new end fittings to other metal lines. The rubber will cause you grief at the wrong time over the years... I used a trans cooler on my '71 car that is mounted in the front... it has a custom made aluminum cross piece with the radiator cap hole cut into it as well. The hoses you see there are the correct rubber for the trans fluid with ribbed fittings and hose clamps just for security sake. 13 years of use with no problems! That car has a trans temp gauge and AFR gauge - both mounted in the ski slope by the window switches.


My opinion on these conversions: Get rid of as much Jag stuff as you can and replace with GM.. cheaper, easier to find and more modern design. My '71 has as much
GM/aftermarket parts as I can get installed in place of the stock 43 year old stuff. I would drive this car anywhere at any time and not have trouble finding any needed
trans forward items.. I like the Jag IRS and it has been rebuilt to be totally reliable. I can drive into a GM dealer or auto parts store and get what I need.

It is not uncommon for the steering racks to leak.. GM pumps need to be reduced in pressure to work 100% correctly... there are different rack combinations that fit into a S1 - later ones from a S3 are easier to find and can be "adapted".. the important thing are the rack bushings that effect the steering... they should be changed to black poly bushings.

Once you do the cleanup - post photos of which wires you do not know about and hose connections... I can post photos of my S1 "cars" which are both completed in these areas. Obtain the Jag CD with parts and service information - it will help you with a lot of the mysteries... these are very simple cars to work on... just strange in
a lot of areas due to the manufacturing techniques used at that time... labor intensive then and now to rebuild. wait until you get to the door and windows seals!

 

Ouch!!!


Loved the selfie. marvelous expression of consternation/confusion!!


Where do I start?


1. The motor mounts are pure DIY. A somewhat clever method of joining the Jaguar and the GM units. Just might be a tad tall, and hence the restriction between the carb and bonnet. What was the sump/engine pan to front cross member clearance? that is where the "rub" comes in. But, it's done so, play the mount cards you are dealt.


2. Using the Jaguar radiator as done here is marginal at best. And, this one is "butchered" in. Almost anything else would be better. For you, Andrew's use of a Camaro unit makes tons of sense.


3. There is a generation of GM engines that are FI and use distributors. But, don't sweat it. What you have is just fine, even if it is a point and condenser unit, and not electronic. Clean points, properly set with a good coil and condenser will rtun that engine OK. Upgrade later.


4. As already stated, either carb will do just fine. I suspect a lot more searching would come up with a rebuild kit. But, use the Edelbrock, it is fine.


5. Dump those battery cables in favor of fresh new ones. Those clamp on ends are the pits. Don't ask how I know.


6. The right kind of rubber trans lines will work. My car has a pair as the last link of trans to radiator and back. Double clamp is best. There is a special rubber for them. Not water, low pressure fuel vacumn or anything like that.


7. The SI brake reservoir is merely looped off and not doing a d... thing but thaking up space.


8. I'd junk all the under bonnet wires and start from scratch. I see nothing to save.


9. There are apparently no engine to heat control valve, valve to matrix and matrix back to engine. The GM engine has ports for that. Easy to run.


10. Start fresh for the PS lines. Two ways to do it. One a tad better than the other.
A. A hydraulic shop can swage new rubber on to your fittings. B. Start with Jaguar fresh lines and double flared adaptions to join Jag to GM. I have B and it works just fine. No leaks. Lucas seal for PS will extend the rack's life a bit.


Enough for now.


I shudder to see the manifolds and down pipes.


I hope you didn't shell out a bunch of bucks for that critter!!


Carl

 

Carl


Yes, there is a "a little more needed clean up" work needed. But he knows that already. Best to take care of some "modifications" now if the budget
will allow - if not, just use what he has since it was running before.

Having had four types of engine mounts in Jags, Suncoast is the best made and located... my '71 handles real well with the lower engine position and rearward CQ. Old mounts were by Mundorf and they had the engine too far forward and upward. Moved it back 1 1/4 inches and that made a tremendous difference. I do like the JTR trans mount that gives room around the trans end and eliminates the big Jag mount entirely. Note in the photo all the room and even the large extra large trans pan for cooling in my old '74 383/700R car... my neighbor and I added the "U" shaped hoops to the mount for exhaust pipe clearance. All that undercoating was hiding the floor pans with large holes and tin covers under the carpets... buyers beware!

Car had just been repainted... seller was covering up all the rust... did an excellent job of it as well. This was my first Jag and I did not know where to look for the problems... traded it for a Mustang Convertible as a "running engine and trans"... I got an equivalent set of problems in the Stang.

We are just here to suggest solutions... having done this (4) times now to Jags - not counting other hot rods from the past years .. I can only feel his pain in fixing others prior messes. As we know, a PO that does not know what he/she is doing is dangerous.

There are a lot of disconnected hoses, for the heater/AC and general vacuum needs inside the car... I can help with all of that.. the wires, not many are
really needed for the engine to run.

 

Roger:


I agree, in a sense. But, as the engine is out, this is the time to clean up a lot of stuff.


I shudder at putting what will be a clean motor into that mess.


And, with that mess of wires, it is no better than 50/50 that it will start and run. or worse yet, an electrical cook down.


I did include heating, as t is relatively simple n the bay to hook up. But, who knows what sins exist behind the firewall!


I deliberately omitted AC. The engine may not even have a compressor.


But, cooling, yup. So easy to cook the engine with that mess. An ancient radiator, marginal when new, with awful hoses, just waiting for a cook down. I am a tad touchy, having lost my DOHC to a cook down. Were the option 500 or so, I might rethink. But, with A Camaro unit so reasonable.


So far my comments have not been in the high dollar range.


So, the Stang is a new set of issues to replace the rotted Jag issues. huh?


Carl

 

Carl


Yes, all old used cars have their own problems... 1990 Mustang Convertible V8 (302) Auto (everything worked when I sold it) and it had it's share and I fixed all of them except for the paint... sold it to a guy in Bakersfield that wanted another one - from his youthful memories...

 

Jaguar still laid up. I am just getting over an awful head cold. Tis a tad warmer, but not enough to tempt a relapse. Lighter things done.


Faithful 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee with well over 200,000 still going. an issue here and there, but tight, shiny and runs great. It's ohv straight six dates back to introduction in 64 in Ramblers. We had a 71 Hornet Aka Rambler with the same basic engine. iron all the way, and not light.


Hate to see this Jag patched. Hoping for as good a jo0b as his talent, willingness and budget allow. Soap, water and elbow grease cost little. Making things neat costs little as well. Clean and safe is the objective.


Carl

 

Yarpos:
- with the EB carb we got (1809) on the secondary side it has what looks like where you would attach a spring mechanism to make it function, i just leave that alone and the secondaries will just open when there's a certain amount of intake volume?
- mine has a manuals choke, hence why we are on our second carb. The first we bought had an electric choke so we returned it for this one.
- the ridiculous wiring is something we are looking into, if the budget can swing it, we will redo what the bozo before us messed up. Thankfully everyone here on the forum has been extremely helpful so I'm confident I can get it done.

Roger:
- as far as removing the old reservoir, what do I do about the sensor? I'm assuming that's why they left the old one - so it didn't trip the sensor.
- the EB filter that i bought came in a package deal, the filter, the carb, and the square to spread bore adapter, and I think it's the reusable style. That's what it sounded like from the paperwork that was in the packaging. I have a k&n filter in my civic so I could always spray this one with the oil right? I am not sure about the clearance yet as we got the carb after I pulled the engine.
- what do I wire the fans into if we switch to the chevy rad with the dual fans? Anything to make this car more user friendly I'm up for as the owner, although not dumb, is not mechanically inclined. Hence why he is having me do the work.
- you said I would need to cut the upper rad support to fit the k&n style filter, do you mean the oval one in the picture that was posted previously?
- the existing trans cooler lines are not long enough to just use them alone. Can you explain to me the process and the specific materials you used to set yours up?
- the steering rack is leaking from both of the boots and the lines, but the bushings have been replaced at some point, I think fairly recently with the black poly bushings. Every bushing we can, we are switching to the polys.
- what do I need to do to reduce the pressure in the power steering so that I don't blow the lines or the system?
- jag cd? Like compact disk? Or like Haynes manual. I do have a Haynes, i know they are somewhat a hit or a miss though.
-....seriously not looking forward to all the weather stripping. the front window is so far gone, someone had tried to hot glue the chrome onto it. I got a chuckle out of that.
- currently I'm trying to get all of the engine and suspension work done. Pulled one of the heads today and there was so much carbon build up it was black as night. Probably going to have it sent off to be polished. A good three angle job is probably in order as well.
- it's funny that you are talking about the 90 vert stang you just sold. My personal project car is a 92 2.3. It's in much better shape compared to the jag, but has been a much bigger head ache. No one wants the 2.3, everyone wants the 5.0, so all part to be found are 5.0 Parts. I need a brake line, that ain't happening unless I get a used one off eBay, or have a shop bend me a new one.

Carl:
- as I said to Roger, i'm not quite sure about my hood clearance just yet, the carb came in after I pulled the engine. With the adapter plate, i think the EB sits higher then the QJ, plus the filter is a tad bit taller, so we will see soon enough.
- the oil pan clearance over the sub frame is about an inch I would say if memory serves me right. I don't think it was sitting directly on it.
- what year Camaro do I use for the rad? And what specs for the hose do I need?
- ...what's a point and condenser system?
- with the QJ rebuild kit, i sat for two hours looking for one while waiting at the drs and came up with nothing. The number from the carb kept coming up with marine carbs, same QJ carb, but apparently this model is for marine use??
- like I said to Yarpos, we are looking into new wiring. I will admit hat electrical is not something I have dabbled in yet, I stare at an electrical diagram and it looks like a bunch of lines to me. I get the concept, but it would be easier for me if it said, line "a" goes from the battery to "x" gauge, and grounds out at point "f". That would make more sense to me, but I will learn.
- I asked roger, but I will pose the question to you as well, can you give me specifics on how you set up your trans cooler system?
- can you explain 9 for me? Is that pertaining to the heater for the inside of the car?
- and my client payed $2400 for it, the payed off my car ($2400) and that left us with like $5000 for all the parts and everything. A very good win win for us both.
- as for soap and elbow grease, i soaked the bay and the engine with Gunk engine degreaser then power washed it down. A second treatment is in order though I think.

To anyone:
Since jags keep so much heat under the hood, would it be a worthwhile investment to have the headers we just bought ceramic coated? Or heat wrapped?

- Seth

P.s. I truly appreciate the amount of respect you all show me. Like I said in a precious post, this forum has been one of the best I have come across. So thank you.

 

Hi , my comment re the secondaries was about the Qjet, dont know how the Edelbrock is set up. Good move re the manual choke , simple to install and operate. We seemed to make chokes finicky problem areas all for the sake of automating one knob.

Re the question about heat under the hood. I havent heard that in regard to LUMPed Jags. I cant answer scientifically , but from experience mine runs just about 85-88C all day in an Australian summer and has bare headers.

 

Nice work...you've been after it.


I see a late Gen 1 Small block which uses a one piece rear main seal and needs a weighted flywheel and a neutral damper. It also clearly has provisions for a roller camshaft but a roller camshaft is presently not being used. I also see 80's smog iron heads which are a low performance light weight and somewhat crack prone casting. They're still good for up to 350HP with the right cam and intake.

I also see a Series 1 front subframe with unvented rotors. It may be a good idea to retrofit a set of Series 3 spindles for the larger wheel bearings, 4 pot calipers and vented rotors. KYB shock are good but on the stiffer side of the line. Bilsteins are a bit stiffer and most aftermarket and EO type shocks are a bit softer. As a practical matter stick with the KYB's because they are of excellent quality and unless you are willing to pay up for a OE set the aftermarket OE soft replacements like Monroe are junk.

I also see a set of headers in a box. Few headers will fit and it's generally difficult to clear the rack tower and steering shaft. I have headers and they will make the engine bay very hot. If you're sticking with those iron heads and camshaft then headers may be not worth the effort or expense necessary to install and ceramic coat them. If you're installing a set of 64CC alu performance heads and a roller cam then game on.

Jag used a GM pump so you can simply get a Jag pump and change the pulley and bracket or disassemble the pump and swap over the regulator spring. If the rack is leaking into the boots its time for a reseal or rebuilt rack. Racks come two ways, short tower or tall tower, make sure you get the right one. Yours is tall tower.

You have the small GM all electronic distributor. You are way past "points and condenser" but too far ahead of a carburetor with that dist. If you're keeping the carb you need a large GM HEI with the coil in cap and a centrifugal and vacuum advance unit at the base.

I've done two eclectic fan converts...but if this is a low RPM as it lays build then I'd run a good old reliable mechanical clutch fan and shroud. Cant beat the simple reliability of a mechanical fan. Many high line European cars were still using mechanical fans well in to the 90's... no wires, no relays no high power alternator necessary and no cooling problems.

 

Google up Jaguar-specialties. Andrew Weinberg is the proprietor. Located ion the San Jose, Campbell area in California. His web site is a gold mine for conversions. Find the Camaro ID there for the radiator.


I used the metal lines that came with my 4L60E transmission. I cut them at the front cross member. I found two 90 degree flare fittings. A local hot rod oriented parts place let me peruse their fitting cabinet. I double flared the lines with my HF flaring kit. Then, came four cooler intended flare on one end, barb on the other fittings. I forgot where I found those. Same place likely. I used my tubing bender to bend two to 90 degrees. Those went into the trans cooler on my radiator. Now, proper rubber hose for trans fluid. Connect the flares. The rubber lines are vertical in my install.
I used the double hose clamp technique, as I hate leaks.


Electrics.


See my prior post for the needed basic circuits. Draw it out. Even, a basic Jaguar manual can help there. Ignition, alternator, starter, oil pressure, coolant temperature.


With a rack that bad, perhaps searching Rock auto or similar for a rebuilt unit might be in your budget. If not go Lucas sealer..


The carbon in the combustion chamber in my view is entirely normal. I would not spend rebuild money on SMG heads. If it ran well, keep em. If not shop for a better pair. Lotsa SBC heads around.


My front cross member was coated with baked Jaguar juice. Oven leaner worked well. but, paint goes with it. No matter, easy lay on a coat of Rustoleum black.


I think tube headers are not worth it. Great for a ported pair of heads for a built engine. Useless on mst street engines, especialy a SMOG headed one. A good pair of RAM horn manifolds do just fine. I'd sell them or return them.


Stock fan came with it? Just keep it. as said, they do work quite well. Efan upgrade for the future.


Great step forward that you have GM electronic ignition.


Just eliminate the sensor for the brake fluid reservoir or relocate it to the cap on the S3 master. Dump the reservoir. Hehe, the sensor says the level is fione in an unused reservoir???


Sorta like me, learning on the fly. Installing an electronic engine at age 70 or so!!
Carb's and point and condensor before that. Forums helped a lot. Gatered literature. read a lot.


Result, an all time favorite car. 83 S3 powered by 94 Cadillac LT1.


Carl

 

When the engine is back in the car complete, just check the clearance with the air cleaner on the engine with a "piece of soft material like Playdoo"
when slowing closing the hood. If it hits, get a different drop type base to lower it down. That is a problem for later on... a sample of a carb drop base is show in the photo.. just lowers the air cleaner downward to create more space under the hood.

You are missing all the connections for the heater on the outside and only an inspection behind the radio will tell you about the condition of the vacuum hoses and controls. There is supposed to be a heater control valve outside that is vacuum operated (or can go modern and install the Vintage Air Heater Servo that is electric and I used this type on both cars). The valve for the S1 is different from the later models...they are available after market and are cheap plastic units... you will need a vacuum connection from the engine for the brake booster and other things.


The Ram Horn manifold in the picture is the first one I installed... the next time I cut off that end you see on the left that was used to support the AC on some models. I have complete information on that mod, if interested; plus the porting done to the exhaust ports to gain a little free HP. Your smog heads and mostly stock engine will not benefit much from all the extra work.

Too bad you got rid of the Q Jet carb... they use less gas, work well and are my favorite.. the electric chokes work 100% and only need a 12V connection.. going to all the trouble to fiddle with a manual choke is not 2015 stuff.. plus I used that stock Jag choke cable spot for a mod to the vents!

That round thing on the top center of the firewall under the center vent is a reservoir of vacuum that works with the center vent...I hope it holds vacuum -- they are hard to find now and not fixable by most people.

I hope your Haynes manual shows the Jaguar Heater Vacuum Controls outside in the engine compartment and inside - behind the radio? If not
I can send the files from Jag CD Parts and Service Manuals... very simple stuff but totally different after the Series 1 cars... SII and S3 are different
and do not relate at all.

Also, a good time to check the floors for leaks from the heater matrix that is inside the car, behind the whole dash that the coolant flows through for
creating inside heat... those two vertical hose connections on the firewall center are for the heater. Not a fun job at all to R&R this piece... they
can be fixed at a radiator shop or new ones are available... the labor is intensive. Other photo shows where the matrix lives inside the car and what has to be removed to get to it for replacement/service. If not sure of the condition, you could put a water hose on one firewall connection and cap the other one... any leaks will show up on the floor(s). Better to know now than later on... the heater matrix or radiator lives in the center of the photo behind the foam... a good way to spend most of a weekend.
You should check the two fans for proper operation as well.. you can see the passenger side fan squirrel cage in the photo...

Having spent a small fortune on trying to use tubular headers on these conversions.. I would stick with Ram Horn manifolds... cheaper, easier and
work as well (if you want, you can even port them) and no problems afterward with cracks and leaks. You see the other posting on this Forum where I also posted this picture of my Wall of Shame with the headers handing on the wall like a trophy.. a living example of what not to do in the future....

You do not have a powerful engine... do not waste the money and time! Sanderson are the only brand that fits... they were the ones I used = twice.

You have a hood release part on top of the master cylinder in the car... it looks like the later model unit I installed in my car in the picture below.. the wires from the old reservoir just transfer to the proper top on the later model. Then take off the old reservoir that is non functional now.

 

Icsamerica:
- Mine is an auto, so I’m assuming the weighted flywheel and such doesn’t apply here?
- How would upgrading, or rather would, upgrading to a roller cam be beneficial in the long run for a car that is mostly going to be a DD? What are the benefits? Is it just a performance upgrade?
- We will pretty much leave the engine how it is, besides replacing gaskets and such, but is there any way to clean up the massive amounts of carbon? Upgrading to performance heads may be something we do down the road, but I think for now we will stick with stock as recommended.
- For budgetary sake, and the fact that the brakes were recently don’t before getting the car, I think we will just stick with what’s there.
- For the struts, the owner still wants to look into lowering the ride, however he has decided at the moment air ride isn’t the way he wants to go. He wants me to just cut the springs which I never really like doing. Is there a suitable set of lowering struts and springs so we don’t jeopardize safety?
- What’s the difficulty level of rebuilding the rack? Is it something that can be done over the weekend or is this a little bit more than a day or twos work?
- With the headers, I know everyone is saying don’t use them, but we missed the return date on them. I think the owner wants to try and use them instead of spending the time trying to sell them. That was a bad call on my part as I figured any engine can benefit from a decent set of headers…lesson learned. Or we will just stick with the stock for now. He and I will need to sit down and discus that at some point.
- What is the other option for the carb/dizzy setup? Don’t think we have a budget for FI conversion.
- I’m going to give Andrew a call about the rad, when I do, I’ll ask him about a shroud too. Ours doesn’t have one obviously with the chop shop job, but I’m sure it would be beneficial.

Carl:
- I actually just got a bunch of parts in today from Andrew, so I am familiar with his excellent supply. I’ll check into the specifics for the rad conversion. Did the Camaro rads have a shroud on them?
- What is Lucas sealer?
- How would you clean out the carbon? I don’t know if you can really see it, but in the third picture, cylinder one has a pretty solid buildup of carbon and I would over all just like it to be cleaned before re-assembly.
- The cross member is going to need a second cleaning which I’m going to do while I am replacing all of my bushings and joints.
- As for the brake fluid stupidity, welcome to my nightmare. Your handle is cute, makes sense. Here’s the explanation of mine. Jaguar-Nightmare…Jagmare. Get it??? Haha,

Roger:
- I was actually going to use tooth paste. Learned that trick recently and it seems to work pretty well.
- There is the pre-existing connection to the brake master, so we are part of the way there!! The fan doesn’t blow though. Most likely a cut wire somewhere -_-
- I still have the Q-jet, haven’t thrown away anything yet. Want to be cautious. It was just leaking gas from the an unknown place and since I was having such issues tracking down the rebuild kit, I decided it would be best to start with something new that has parts more readily available if something goes wrong. The stock choke cable is still there. I’m not sure if it was even attached to the carb though.
- The vacuum reservoir isn’t hooked up, so I’m assuming that will be a job for later when/if we wire in heat.
- I will check the manual later to see. I’m getting a little dizzy with all the info. SOOO helpful. But a lot to take in at once.
- Once we get into the interior I will start checking out the internal stuff. I don’t want to get ADD and jump from job to job without adequately finishing one.
- I’ll have to look, but I think I can probably drill out the center of the new res cap and fit the sensor inside there.

 

Since yours was covered, I am not sure it is "correct". The proper one should have the same type wire connections already.. Just will not give you a "failure light"/low on brake fluid.

Take care of your obvious things first.. all can be done over time.

I have never rebuilt a rack myself... never heard of anyone being able to do that task?? Always just purchased a used one or a rebuilt one.. just be
sure you get the proper one for a Series 1.. good information from supply sources is getting harder to find now that they are older than most of the people working in the stores/shops.

I bought a rebuilt one from Andrew at Jaguar Specialties for instance... has worked now for many years.

 

I have rebuilt a couple of racks over the years, although successful at first, they each only lasted about 6-7 months, these of course were not jag units, they were all amc units! Dont waste your time, just get another!

 

As to the cross member cleaning. Oven cleaner isn't as hardy as it once was, but still cuts well. Keep away from paint that you don't want disturbed. Rustoleum black is a great all around way to paint suspension stuff.


Look up Andrew's web site. A plethora of great stuff. Not sure about the shroud. If there is one on the car that matches the mechanical fan, that ought to work just fine.


As to carbon removal from the heads. I've used wire brushes chucked in a drill. Just a dig it out thing. As long as there are no sharp edges, it doesn't hurt a thing.


Carbon removal off the pistons is more critical. Big risk of chunks getting down in tot he bore. Not good. If you do, use a strong shop vac to clean up. I'd put it back as is.
it will not take long to build up another coating of carbon. Not a big thing at all.


Look in the "snake oil" section of your parts store. Lucas is a time honored brand. Many report that it stalls off rack replacement for a bit. But, if your budget allow, now is the time to swap it out for a good used one or a rebuild. Check out David Boger at everydayxj for the used unit. Good guy posts here from time to time.


Air bags is a complex thing to get right. I'd defer that or just forget it. If you want the snoot a tad lower, there are a couple of ways. These cars are built with spacers under the springs. Remove them. Or, drop the spring pad. Use longer bolts and spacers. BEWARE. springs have a lot of pent up energy. Getting loose can maim or even kill.
I'd leave that alone for the time. Attitude changes can alter the way the car handles.
The suspension as is is world class.


Carl

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
Icsamerica:
- Mine is an auto, so I’m assuming the weighted flywheel and such doesn’t apply here?

When Chevy went to the one piece rear main seal the external and last crank weight was not able to fit through the seal so they moved the weight to the flywheel so it could be bolted on after the seal was slid over the crank flange. Many people make this mistake and think 350's are internal balance. The truth is they are all external block balanced, just depends where the balance is. The flywheel should have a 5 inch curved weight tack welded near the ring gear. If it not there the motor is out of balance and has the wring flywheel and being this way will hammer the bearings.
TwoChevy350CastingFlanges.jpg Photo by 3454545 | Photobucket




Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- How would upgrading, or rather would, upgrading to a roller cam be beneficial in the long run for a car that is mostly going to be a DD? What are the benefits? Is it just a performance upgrade?


Roller cams are more compatible with todays oils. They also open the valves much faster so they tend to breath better and have less frictional losses. A good roller cam setup for that block will be about $400 using the OEM rollers, and after market cam, oem spider and dog bones. The right roller cam can make that motor a hero even with those heads.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- For the struts, the owner still wants to look into lowering the ride, however he has decided at the moment air ride isn’t the way he wants to go. He wants me to just cut the springs which I never really like doing. Is there a suitable set of lowering struts and springs so we don’t jeopardize safety?

Do a search for lowering spring an air ride, it been discussed to death on these forums.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- What’s the difficulty level of rebuilding the rack? Is it something that can be done over the weekend or is this a little bit more than a day or twos work?


Rebuild kits cost 85$ and a rebuilt rack is about 240$. It hard to rebuild a rack right so like the others, I'd have yours rebuilt. Tall tower racks are getting hard to find though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- With the headers, I know everyone is saying don’t use them, but we missed the return date on them. I think the owner wants to try and use them instead of spending the time trying to sell them. That was a bad call on my part as I figured any engine can benefit from a decent set of headers…lesson learned. Or we will just stick with the stock for now. He and I will need to sit down and discus that at some point.


What size is the collectors on those headers? 2.5 inch is going to be a bear with the tall tower rack. Rams horns are fine and the expedient thing to use considering the rest of this build.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- What is the other option for the carb/dizzy setup? Don’t think we have a budget for FI conversion.


You need a dist like this one.
GM Chevy V8 Hei Distributor Vacuum Advance 350 305 | eBay


I'd also use a EB performer intake and EB carb is OK. Quarajets are great but the leaky body is a common hard to fix issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagmare
- I’m going to give Andrew a call about the rad, when I do, I’ll ask him about a shroud too. Ours doesn’t have one obviously with the chop shop job, but I’m sure it would be beneficial.


Andrew sells a kit as a package solution and it works. Using his kit and part numbers I completed swap which was running and driving in one weekend. He gets touchy about a-la-carte solutions.

I think a trip to the recycler yard is a good idea at this point. Look for a late 70's very early 80's non-electronic carbureted Camaro and grab the radiator, distributor, clutch fan, power steering pump bracket, alternator bracket, water, pump pulley and what ever else is good.

 

Spring cutting is an art and has it's issues. Many have done it and just lived with them for the sake of a low nose. an issue in itself.


But, if you must. The springs are supported by a pan that bolts to the lower edge of the lower wishbone. Drop the pan and the springs are set lower, voila the nose does as well! Steel or hard alloy spacers and longer bolts. The trick is containing the spring energy during the swap. DANGER.


Carl

 

So trying to solve all the issues this car has at once is getting a little confusing. If we could I'd like to focus on the front sub frame as that's what I'm currently working on now. I have all new ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar end links, sway bar support bushings, and we bought new stuff for the steering rack. Now, with that said, why do you all think I need a new one? I ask so for future reference I know the signs of when one has gone bad. Is it because there is fluid coming out of the boot?

I was on jag specialties website and for the steering rack for my year it just says "call me" so in the next couple days I will try and do just that. Maybe if he doesn't have one in stock we can at least send ours to him and have him rebuild it for us.

Also, I'm replacing the sub frame mounts and I've run into an issue. The mounts have that center insert and it's rusted to the old mounts. Getting it out isn't my issue, I already did, just cut them out, but, how do I keep them from rusting again? Some rustolium maybe? Or some kind of grease coating?