To those who have done a chevy conversion.
#62
Resurrection!!!
Hey, need to revive the thread for a bit. Andrew said with our calipers if the piston is shot replace the whole thing, if not just rebuild. If I post pictures can you all tell me if they are shot? I'm unsure of what would indicate them being bad. Also, with the power steering, I currently have a Chevy pump, but I think roger said I will need to change the internal spring to down step the pressure, or just use a jag pump. If I use the jag pump, will I need to fabricate a mount? The one I found looks different then what I currently have. It also doesn't have the reservoir like the Chevy one does. As always, thank you guys!
#63
Hey, need to revive the thread for a bit. Andrew said with our calipers if the piston is shot replace the whole thing, if not just rebuild. If I post pictures can you all tell me if they are shot? I'm unsure of what would indicate them being bad. Also, with the power steering, I currently have a Chevy pump, but I think roger said I will need to change the internal spring to down step the pressure, or just use a jag pump. If I use the jag pump, will I need to fabricate a mount? The one I found looks different then what I currently have. It also doesn't have the reservoir like the Chevy one does. As always, thank you guys!
Two schools of thought on this. Some feel its more economical and satisfying to rebuild their own calipers by replacing seals and pistons if necessary. It is if you have the tools and expertise and experience. Others like myself feel that calipers are sufficiently inexpensive and available rebuilt with a warranty from suppliers so that it's not worth the risk as a DIY endeavor.
It easy to tell if a caliper piston is "shot". If it's pitted or no longer has a good polish on it then it needs to be replaced.
As for the Power steering pump, Jag used the GM saginaw pump. The specification in the Jaguar service manual for Series 3 is 1100 to 1200 Lbf/in2 which is the same as PSI. I dont have a Series 1 service manual but I see no reason for a material difference. Perhaps someone with a genuine Jag Series 1 service manual can check. The GM pumps were designed to put out 1000 to 1200 PSI depending on application. So you should be OK with the Saginaw pump you have as long as it's in good condition.
If you don't have a reservoir chances are you have a Type 2 pump which is more efficient and uses about 1/2 the HP of the Saginaw pump. The pressure output on the type 2 pump is unknown to me. You will have to find a part number or application from where it came and figure it out,.review this too...
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...steering-pump/
Seems to be some confusion with the Mustang 2 racks, they need a lower PSI. Many hot rodders would use GM engines and PS pumps and also use a Mustang 2 front end with a rack in their project vehicle.....that's one of the few racks that needs 800 PSI.
Last edited by icsamerica; 02-12-2015 at 08:24 AM.
#64
I lowered my PS pump pressure
I used a restrictor from DSE for my late model GM PS pump... works well with the S1 Jag stuff... never could find out the pressure outputs and desired pressure of the Jag racks so lowering it seemed logical and it works.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 02-12-2015 at 10:43 AM.
#65
Man Roger, that looks clean! I will look into that then. We ordered a "new" rack from Andrew and I would prefer not to blow it! I'm assuming it's whats attached to the chrome line coming off of your pump?
Glad to know I don't need to replace the one I have. Every little bit of savings counts!!!
Hopefully this weekend I can get the subframe back up. With the spring spacers in the lower spring support, I pulled them out, but there seems to be one more. Is the very bottom ring supposed to come out as well or is it welded in?
Glad to know I don't need to replace the one I have. Every little bit of savings counts!!!
Hopefully this weekend I can get the subframe back up. With the spring spacers in the lower spring support, I pulled them out, but there seems to be one more. Is the very bottom ring supposed to come out as well or is it welded in?
#66
Still need to lower my car
My S1 is still too high.. need to remove any spacers in there/and/or put a spacer under the perch.. Needs to go down about 1.5 inches or more...
It is on my List... today I have the wiper motor out for servicing... changing the congealed grease etc. It just gets warm and does not work/move at all
any longer... four decades of use/ and non use in sitting around... not much need for wipers in So Cal...
It is on my List... today I have the wiper motor out for servicing... changing the congealed grease etc. It just gets warm and does not work/move at all
any longer... four decades of use/ and non use in sitting around... not much need for wipers in So Cal...
#68
How to use spacers to lower the front end
I have saved a couple of prior answers to this question... I used the word "perch" and they say spring pan... I have not done either method yet. I have not even looked at mine to see if there are any packing washers on top of or under the front springs.. if so they can be removed to lower the front end.
"You can use spacers between the lower control arm and the springpan, thus lowering the springpan and dropping the front end. You'll need longer bolts, of course. I know it's been done this way but, personally, I wouldn't be 100% comfortable unless i was sure the spacers provided enough support for the longer bolts.
Have the springs ever been replaced on this car? If so, there might be too many spacers installed. You'd have to fabricate spacers."
"As I recall the geometry is such that if you lower the spring pans .75" you'll lower the actual ride height by 1.25"-1.50". Something like that. You could experiment by just using spacer tubes (or even lots of washers) as spacers. When you have it where you want it, measure the amount the pan is lowered and fabricate some spacers the same thickness"
"You can use spacers between the lower control arm and the springpan, thus lowering the springpan and dropping the front end. You'll need longer bolts, of course. I know it's been done this way but, personally, I wouldn't be 100% comfortable unless i was sure the spacers provided enough support for the longer bolts.
Have the springs ever been replaced on this car? If so, there might be too many spacers installed. You'd have to fabricate spacers."
"As I recall the geometry is such that if you lower the spring pans .75" you'll lower the actual ride height by 1.25"-1.50". Something like that. You could experiment by just using spacer tubes (or even lots of washers) as spacers. When you have it where you want it, measure the amount the pan is lowered and fabricate some spacers the same thickness"
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 02-12-2015 at 07:54 PM.
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LnrB (02-12-2015)
#69
Haha, have they ever been replaced? Not the slightest clue. I would say probably not. I'm not going to replace them though. The owner is back on the air ride suspension again so no sense in spending money on them right now. The big trick will be reinstalling them. I think I got that covered though.
#72
#73
Stering rack centering hole
Seth:
Maybe this will be the fastest method since I cannot attach to a Private Message:
Page from Jag Service/Parts CD with the centering method and spot for access... print it out! Sorry it is upside now... my scanner just does that!
You should really get a copy of the Jag CD... lost of information...
Maybe this will be the fastest method since I cannot attach to a Private Message:
Page from Jag Service/Parts CD with the centering method and spot for access... print it out! Sorry it is upside now... my scanner just does that!
You should really get a copy of the Jag CD... lost of information...
#74
I have saved a couple of prior answers to this question... I used the word "perch" and they say spring pan... I have not done either method yet. I have not even looked at mine to see if there are any packing washers on top of or under the front springs.. if so they can be removed to lower the front end.
"You can use spacers between the lower control arm and the springpan, thus lowering the springpan and dropping the front end. You'll need longer bolts, of course. I know it's been done this way but, personally, I wouldn't be 100% comfortable unless i was sure the spacers provided enough support for the longer bolts.
Have the springs ever been replaced on this car? If so, there might be too many spacers installed. You'd have to fabricate spacers."
"As I recall the geometry is such that if you lower the spring pans .75" you'll lower the actual ride height by 1.25"-1.50". Something like that. You could experiment by just using spacer tubes (or even lots of washers) as spacers. When you have it where you want it, measure the amount the pan is lowered and fabricate some spacers the same thickness"
"You can use spacers between the lower control arm and the springpan, thus lowering the springpan and dropping the front end. You'll need longer bolts, of course. I know it's been done this way but, personally, I wouldn't be 100% comfortable unless i was sure the spacers provided enough support for the longer bolts.
Have the springs ever been replaced on this car? If so, there might be too many spacers installed. You'd have to fabricate spacers."
"As I recall the geometry is such that if you lower the spring pans .75" you'll lower the actual ride height by 1.25"-1.50". Something like that. You could experiment by just using spacer tubes (or even lots of washers) as spacers. When you have it where you want it, measure the amount the pan is lowered and fabricate some spacers the same thickness"
#75
Yeah,
1. Specialty shop. We have "The Screw shop" in nearby Concord. a hole in thewall in an old strip mall.
2. One local Ace Hdwe franchise has an impressive collection of fasteners. I evne found a LH 3/4 fine thread nut for my VW derelict's spindle.
3. BiG box home Improvement stores ala Orchard Supply, Home depot, Loew's.
Some are only local.
4. A tractor supply company out in the country. Real and gentlemen farmers need stuff for their equipment.
5. Search Amazon. Lots of all kinds of stuff there. I found a didposal, a water heater control valve, an electronic ignition for my middle aged Briggs and Stratton. and, more
Carl
1. Specialty shop. We have "The Screw shop" in nearby Concord. a hole in thewall in an old strip mall.
2. One local Ace Hdwe franchise has an impressive collection of fasteners. I evne found a LH 3/4 fine thread nut for my VW derelict's spindle.
3. BiG box home Improvement stores ala Orchard Supply, Home depot, Loew's.
Some are only local.
4. A tractor supply company out in the country. Real and gentlemen farmers need stuff for their equipment.
5. Search Amazon. Lots of all kinds of stuff there. I found a didposal, a water heater control valve, an electronic ignition for my middle aged Briggs and Stratton. and, more
Carl
#76
Try https://www.copperstate.com/ Copper state Nut and Bolt He's a pretty big operator and restores (or has done) a bunch of old trucks. A car guy.
#77
How many pistons did the s1 xj6 calipers have? The owner keeps faffing about looking for either a replacement or a rebuild. He purchased one under the impression from the seller that is was an s1, but when it came it was an s3. The current calipers have 3 pistons, but due to the cars shaky history its unknown to me if they were the originals or not.
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