Trans fluid change
#1
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The fluid in the trans on my XJ6 Series III isn't burnt but it's looking a little dark and shift quality isn't the best either.
I plan to pull the pan and change out the screen but also wanted to disconnect the cooling line going to the radiator and use the transmission to pump out the rest of the fluid while I fill it through the dip stick.
Problem is I don't see an easy spot at the top of the rad where to disconnect the line and drain the fluid.
Any suggestions on the best way to do this on a Series III?
I plan to pull the pan and change out the screen but also wanted to disconnect the cooling line going to the radiator and use the transmission to pump out the rest of the fluid while I fill it through the dip stick.
Problem is I don't see an easy spot at the top of the rad where to disconnect the line and drain the fluid.
Any suggestions on the best way to do this on a Series III?
#2
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Something weird here! Your trans cooler lines go into the radiator? On a Ser III XJ6? I've never seen that before. All the Ser III XJ6s I've seen and worked on had the remote trans cooler attached to the lower radiator hoses. The actual trans fluid hoses are easy to reach from underneath.
If your cooler lines go into the radiator, but you can't reach them, I'm not sure what to say. Do you have a pic? Is this a V8 conversion?
As for suggestions, just remember that the old fluid pumps out wayyyy faster than you can pour the new fluid in so work in short bursts!
Cheers
DD
If your cooler lines go into the radiator, but you can't reach them, I'm not sure what to say. Do you have a pic? Is this a V8 conversion?
As for suggestions, just remember that the old fluid pumps out wayyyy faster than you can pour the new fluid in so work in short bursts!
Cheers
DD
#3
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I just assumed the cooler lines went directly to the radiator first as they do on a lot of vehicles.
I'll get under there this weekend and see if I can spot the lines from underneath. Any idea which one is the supply line to the cooler and which is the return?
Also, I usually drain for a bit, stop the engine fill the trans back up and then start the engine and drain a bit...repeat...
I'll get under there this weekend and see if I can spot the lines from underneath. Any idea which one is the supply line to the cooler and which is the return?
Also, I usually drain for a bit, stop the engine fill the trans back up and then start the engine and drain a bit...repeat...
#4
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#5
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Pull pan, change filter. Pull flywheel cover to tranny, drain torque converter. I would not suggest pumping fluid through hoses by way of tranny pump, think dry no lube, very touchy on tranny even if it is a TH400. Refill 5 qts. after reassembly. Start, go through gears, check, add , go through gears, check and add til full line on stick while warm. Check again when cold.
#6
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Finally did the trans service including flushing the fluid through the cooler up front and using AMSOil type F fluid.
After going through the process of bringing the fluid level to the full line while hot, I only noticed a marginal improvement in shifting. I mostly get that clunk when shifting between Drive and Reverse.
Any possible adjustment for this clunk?
After going through the process of bringing the fluid level to the full line while hot, I only noticed a marginal improvement in shifting. I mostly get that clunk when shifting between Drive and Reverse.
Any possible adjustment for this clunk?
#7
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AHA. the dreaded clunk.
A few items to check.
1) Idle speed is as its meant to be. The BW66 is a rather sharp take up transmission.
2) Transmission mount, that thing with the scary spring at the rear of the unit, has the inner "cotton reel" mount still intact. Most are not.
3) The diff unit is moving in the cradle. Quite common. The 4 bolts (2 on each side) that secure the cast brackets of the inner wishbone pivot to the diff unit, are set up with shims, and the shims fall out, thus loosening the bolts grip on things, and the torque wind up of P to R to D to R works the diff unit, and you hear the "clunk". Some banter as to whether the shims fall out first or the bolts come loose first, has abounded for years, but little matter, its loose, and is quite time consuming to retighten.
4) The prop shaft centre bearing is worn, and the rubber has gone all floppy, and that is clunking around. Usually there is a vibration on acceleration with this fault.
These are what I have found with S2 and S3 cars over the years.
A few items to check.
1) Idle speed is as its meant to be. The BW66 is a rather sharp take up transmission.
2) Transmission mount, that thing with the scary spring at the rear of the unit, has the inner "cotton reel" mount still intact. Most are not.
3) The diff unit is moving in the cradle. Quite common. The 4 bolts (2 on each side) that secure the cast brackets of the inner wishbone pivot to the diff unit, are set up with shims, and the shims fall out, thus loosening the bolts grip on things, and the torque wind up of P to R to D to R works the diff unit, and you hear the "clunk". Some banter as to whether the shims fall out first or the bolts come loose first, has abounded for years, but little matter, its loose, and is quite time consuming to retighten.
4) The prop shaft centre bearing is worn, and the rubber has gone all floppy, and that is clunking around. Usually there is a vibration on acceleration with this fault.
These are what I have found with S2 and S3 cars over the years.
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