XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Trouble starting

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  #21  
Old 06-30-2020, 06:03 PM
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It feels very solid when I push down on the button, like it won’t move. Sticking up about a cm or two. Am I pushing the right one? Little black case with a black button on top located beside the passenger dash
if the fuel pump relay was blown then the pump wouldn’t be humming or vibrating though right?
 
  #22  
Old 06-30-2020, 06:32 PM
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Could it be injectors or something?
 
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:45 PM
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sounds like it is not tripped, so the next step is the fuel pump relay.

do you have a Service Manual?

if not, go to my website and download the sections you need. In this case you need the Electrical and Fuel System sections.
 

Last edited by Jose; 06-30-2020 at 06:52 PM.
  #24  
Old 06-30-2020, 08:22 PM
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Jaguar service manual is on its way but I haven’t got it yet
i can check in my Haynes but I found that series 3s were less involves in it
what is your website Jose?
 
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Old 06-30-2020, 08:39 PM
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forget the Haynes! Use the factory manuals.

my website is: jagupgrades.webstarts.com

when I put a link to it, it comes out as www.jagupgrades.webstarts.site
Don't know why.

just type jagupgrades.webstarts.com in your browser. Let me know if you can't connect.
 

Last edited by Jose; 06-30-2020 at 08:43 PM.
  #26  
Old 07-01-2020, 12:53 AM
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Got onto the site thanks, I’m not too sure where exactly the relay is listed though
 
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Old 07-01-2020, 05:30 AM
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sorry, I referred you the website for the Factory Service Manual sections that you might want to study, they are in the Downloads page. Free.
 
  #28  
Old 07-01-2020, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CalebT31
Got onto the site thanks, I’m not too sure where exactly the relay is listed though
What is it you want to know about the relay?

I'm not clear where you are in the diagnostic process. Please clarify.

You said "So I went through the fuel pump circuit, all is fine." The fuel pump circuit includes the relay and the inertia switch.

If so, that leaves the fuel pump itself


Cheers
DD
 
  #29  
Old 07-01-2020, 12:34 PM
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I’m sorry I didn’t mean the whole circuit, just that the pump itself was vibrating while the engine was cranking so I assumed the whole circuit was fine because it was getting power
I’m not sure how to check the relay to see if it’s the problem or even where I’d get a replacement
 
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:46 PM
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for good used spare parts contact David at Everyday XJ

surely he can supply a relay and pump assuming they are bad.. If no luck with pump I have a used one that works but it is noisy.

did you go thru the No Start checklist?

 
  #31  
Old 07-01-2020, 12:59 PM
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Ok sounds good. I could not find the no start checklist that was mentioned earlier
 
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Old 07-01-2020, 01:24 PM
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no start checlist:

go to:
Sticky
XJ6 & XJ12 'HOW TO' quick links

(top of page).

scroll down to "Crank but no start".
 

Last edited by Jose; 07-01-2020 at 01:26 PM.
  #33  
Old 07-01-2020, 01:47 PM
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I found it thanks, will go through it
 
  #34  
Old 07-01-2020, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CalebT31
I’m sorry I didn’t mean the whole circuit, just that the pump itself was vibrating while the engine was cranking so I assumed the whole circuit was fine because it was getting power
I’m not sure how to check the relay to see if it’s the problem or even where I’d get a replacement

If the pump vibrates while cranking the relay is working.

Whether or not he vibrating pump is actually pumping fuel is another matter. But let's not go there yet.

The fuel pump circuit has two operating modes; two "branches": starting and running

Since the pump vibrates when cranking the engine we know the starting branch of the circuit is OK. But, since the engine won't stay running, we have to look at the running branch of the circuit.

Remove the air cleaner cannister. This will expose the front of the Air Flow Meter. At the front of the Air Flow Meter you'll see a metal, spring loaded flap. Now, turn the key 'on' and then push the flap open with your fingers. You should hear the fuel pump run.

Post back with the results

Cheers
DD
 
  #35  
Old 07-01-2020, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CalebT31
Ok sounds good. I could not find the no start checklist that was mentioned earlier

Do as you wish but, IMO, forget the no start checklist for the moment. We already know the engine will start. You said so in your first posting.

Cheers
DD
 
  #36  
Old 07-01-2020, 08:15 PM
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Yes the first couple of times it would start after cranking a while then run for 30 seconds ish
 
  #37  
Old 07-02-2020, 07:26 AM
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For used parts here in Canada, I contact Robert Laughton. He posts on this forum. Great guy - incredible pricing.
 
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  #38  
Old 07-03-2020, 04:33 AM
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If the fuel pump is operating (and we know you have a spark) then the problem might be with the power to the injectors. Next to the fuel pump relay is a diode pack and the 'main relay' for the injector system. I have had problems with poor contacts or wires breaking off from the connectors in this area before, resulting in no power to the injectors.

Check for 12V at one of the injector plugs. It should show 12V on both pins with the ignition turned on. If it is not present, check back to the main relay (Bown/Slate wire), and if that doesn't have 12V, check at the diode pack (white wire).


 
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  #39  
Old 07-09-2020, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CalebT31
It feels very solid when I push down on the button, like it won’t move. Sticking up about a cm or two. Am I pushing the right one? Little black case with a black button on top located beside the passenger dash
if the fuel pump relay was blown then the pump wouldn’t be humming or vibrating though right?
Caleb, it's always good to add photos so the experts and nonexperts here would typically know what you are referring to.

That is how I do it, because at times is difficult fore to name some of the parts/items and by so doing g learning becomes smoother.
​​​​​​
 
  #40  
Old 07-15-2020, 07:59 PM
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Sorry I took so long to get back but I’ve been busy
i tried just about everything you all have said and that weirdly lead me to the fuel pump again... turns out the posts on the new one are actually marked incorrectly and it was flowing backwards.
she starts now but won’t rev higher than 1000 rpms
 


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