Troubleshooting suggestions (?) for new owner with pics
#41
#42
Jaguar Light Bulb - LLB280
I get no lights there. Of course it could be a wiring or relay maybe? I know that the buttons work however because the map and interior lights do come on. Hopefully this fixes it. Mainly trying to get the light on for the fuel switch to see which tank is on.
I get no lights there. Of course it could be a wiring or relay maybe? I know that the buttons work however because the map and interior lights do come on. Hopefully this fixes it. Mainly trying to get the light on for the fuel switch to see which tank is on.
#43
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Yeah, agree "bench bleeding" of the master cylinder simplifies getting air out.
Somewhere in my "stuff", I have a simple kit for that. Just to plastic fittings and hoses.
One hose per port. Clamp the MC in the vice. Fill the reservoir and use a plunger to pump. The regurgitation will come up with bubbles. When they cease, install an air free MC.
Carl
Somewhere in my "stuff", I have a simple kit for that. Just to plastic fittings and hoses.
One hose per port. Clamp the MC in the vice. Fill the reservoir and use a plunger to pump. The regurgitation will come up with bubbles. When they cease, install an air free MC.
Carl
#44
Yeah, agree "bench bleeding" of the master cylinder simplifies getting air out.
Somewhere in my "stuff", I have a simple kit for that. Just to plastic fittings and hoses.
One hose per port. Clamp the MC in the vice. Fill the reservoir and use a plunger to pump. The regurgitation will come up with bubbles. When they cease, install an air free MC.
Carl
Somewhere in my "stuff", I have a simple kit for that. Just to plastic fittings and hoses.
One hose per port. Clamp the MC in the vice. Fill the reservoir and use a plunger to pump. The regurgitation will come up with bubbles. When they cease, install an air free MC.
Carl
#45
New material cylinder and booster are in but the top of the cylinder has different port sizes for fittings to the remote reservoir.
I did get the new bulbs in and they are the right size BUT still no lights there. I'm not sure if the wiring is bad or if there is a relay that controls that? If anyone has any ideas, that would be great.
I did get the new bulbs in and they are the right size BUT still no lights there. I'm not sure if the wiring is bad or if there is a relay that controls that? If anyone has any ideas, that would be great.
#46
the lights in those switches are super-dimmed, you need to check them in total darkness;
there is no relay for them, only a fuse, but if the other dash lights are working, the fuse must be fine.
I would think the problem is a disconnected or damaged wire in the wire harness that runs under the console panel, up the driver's corner and left side of the center console, a very difficult place to access without undoing the entire console and moving it backwards to access the harness.
An alternative is to remove the radio Panel. which means removing AC control knobs, nuts, and then carefully pulling it backwards so the Opticell cables are not accidentally pulled, so you have access to the two screws securing the upper panel which contains the 4 switches, cig lighter / dimmer / trip computer, and tring to work from the back of the panel with the panel pulled.
there is no relay for them, only a fuse, but if the other dash lights are working, the fuse must be fine.
I would think the problem is a disconnected or damaged wire in the wire harness that runs under the console panel, up the driver's corner and left side of the center console, a very difficult place to access without undoing the entire console and moving it backwards to access the harness.
An alternative is to remove the radio Panel. which means removing AC control knobs, nuts, and then carefully pulling it backwards so the Opticell cables are not accidentally pulled, so you have access to the two screws securing the upper panel which contains the 4 switches, cig lighter / dimmer / trip computer, and tring to work from the back of the panel with the panel pulled.
#48
#49
No worries. I appreciate the feedback either way!
I also installed the brake lines up front later Sunday and found that the and line inside the passenger side had broken or was already broken. Trying to track down just this line but one place so far has told me I would need to buy the full set of lines. I'm sure someone could make the line for me too.
I also installed the brake lines up front later Sunday and found that the and line inside the passenger side had broken or was already broken. Trying to track down just this line but one place so far has told me I would need to buy the full set of lines. I'm sure someone could make the line for me too.
#50
#51
Thanks Jose. I replaced the flex lines. I broke the hard line that runs along the passenger side in the engine bay and connects to the flex line.
#52
#53
Ended up ordering new set of hard lines for 150. So if anyone needs one, we are just plannning to replace the one.
Still trying to track down where the water temp sensor is located?
Also, any advice on changing the fuel filter in the canister in the trunk? I started loosening the bottom and it seemed like fuel kept coming. Since there are hard lines going in, there is nowhere to pinch to cut off any flow.
Still trying to track down where the water temp sensor is located?
Also, any advice on changing the fuel filter in the canister in the trunk? I started loosening the bottom and it seemed like fuel kept coming. Since there are hard lines going in, there is nowhere to pinch to cut off any flow.
#54
#55
Thanks Jose. It's a 74 so I don't have an in-line filter, it has the housing for a paper type filter to go inside.
#56
#57
#59
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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#60