XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Troubleshooting suggestions (?) for new owner with pics

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  #81  
Old 05-27-2017, 11:37 AM
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Beginning to lose patience. Nothing seems to work out smoothly. Still haven't found any plugs to fit this new master cyl to retain the stock remote reservoir. So I bit the bullet and bought a cylinder mounted reservoir. Hopefully that fits.
New brakes lines arrived from SNG Barratt and they don't fit. Not even the right double female ends!
 
  #82  
Old 05-27-2017, 03:26 PM
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Lemme tell ya bout the time I stood looking at Nix with gritted teeth and clenched fists, Cursing the day she ever came under this roof!

If Aliens had beamed the car away at that moment I would have cheered at the thought of Never seeing the car Ever Again! I seriously considered stuffing a rag in the gas tank and lighting it off! Husband scarcely stopped my with a list of collateral damage and other unintended consequences that would ensue.

But that crisis passed, the sun came up next day, and we moved on, and eventually prevailed. You will too.
(';')
 
  #83  
Old 05-27-2017, 03:33 PM
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Yeah, I'll figure it out. Oddly enough, I was thinking I could fashion a line out of what came in the kit but even the threads don't match. Even more odd, I took the stock fitting and new fitting to Home Depot to test the sizing and the new fitting seems to be a M10x1.0 while the stock seems to be a 3/8-24.
Which would have led me to believe that maybe the lines were not original since they should be metric I would have thought. But I already replaced the flex hoses and those attached no problem.
 
  #84  
Old 07-28-2017, 06:54 AM
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Sooo... an update.....i received the correct hard lines and installed finally. I was not comfortable with the fit of the top mounted master cyl reservoir I bought and I was tired of dealing with it so I bit thge bullet and ordered a Centric 130.20101 which is a direct replacement for the early XJ6. It even comes with the plastic fittings but is special order and won't arrive until Oct...
So I had randomly inquired with Terrys Jag Parts and found out that as long as you keep the plastic push in fittings, Jagaur M/C Seal Kit - GR-SP7649 (GR-SP7649) will have the grommets and seals to make the later master cylinders, like the one I bought from AutoZone, work with the stock plastic fittings. And all for $11!!
Wish I had found that out before dropping 255 on a master cyl and 100 on a top mount reservoir. So I just need to bleed the brakes now and it should be driveable this weekend. I also recently bought a 67 Cadillac Coupe DeVille that is custom and cool so that's been taking up my time!
 
  #85  
Old 07-28-2017, 08:17 AM
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Sorry I did not read this post until today... I went through the same thing on my car but learned about the seal kit more easily... On a S1 you have to worry about the hood
brace hitting the new reservoir... had to use Dremel and cut off a small section that was hitting and causing the seals to leak.. just painted that fenderwell the first time to cover up the paint that was removed.

Jaguars are harder to restore than Mustangs, I traded a '74 Jag for a '90 Mustang Convertible... all parts are available for the Ford but not for my early S1 Jag...
 
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger Mabry
Sorry I did not read this post until today... I went through the same thing on my car but learned about the seal kit more easily... On a S1 you have to worry about the hood
brace hitting the new reservoir... had to use Dremel and cut off a small section that was hitting and causing the seals to leak.. just painted that fenderwell the first time to cover up the paint that was removed.

Jaguars are harder to restore than Mustangs, I traded a '74 Jag for a '90 Mustang Convertible... all parts are available for the Ford but not for my early S1 Jag...
For sure! And mustang parts are cheap. Have a 66 coupe too.
 
  #87  
Old 07-30-2017, 09:25 PM
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Once again, I could use some advice from the brain trust. All lines were snugged down, the grommets and plugs in the new master, cleaned out the filter in the reservoir and added fresh brake fluid. Got under the rear and was able to open the bleeder on top of the caliper on the rear passenger INWARD side. Had my lady help with the pedal and ....only got a little fluid out and the reservoir doesn't appear to be changing much at all. Pedal will go to the floor and come back up on its own. Not sure why it's not flowing through.
 
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Chipster55
...Got under the rear and was able to open the bleeder on top of the caliper on the rear passenger INWARD side. Had my lady help with the pedal and ....only got a little fluid out and the reservoir doesn't appear to be changing much at all. Pedal will go to the floor and come back up on its own. Not sure why it's not flowing through.
Chip, the rear passenger caliper is the absolute Farthest from the Master Cylinder! As you've been fooling with nearly Everything in the brake circuit, I recommend persistence. It might take some time to get ALL the air out of a system which you've tuned up to this degree.

Bleeding brakes is one of the most Boring tasks but also one of the most critical as I'm sure you're well aware. Just keep her pumping the pedal and you keep working the bleeder. It will be a while before enough pressure builds up to get a "psst" because up to this point the air in the line is merely compressing.

When you get it all finished, take your lady out to a nice dinner at a place of her choosing. She'll be a much more willing assistant in future if you do.
(';')
 
  #89  
Old 07-31-2017, 05:41 AM
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Thank you. I had only really messed with the front passenger side, so I expect that the other 3 lines have a decent amount if fluid still. My concern is more that the reservoir level didn't seem to be changing. But I'll give it another go this week
 
  #90  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:01 AM
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Well it's finally on the road. I didn't feel that I really bled the brakes well but I guess better than I thought because it seems to be fine after a few drives.

Current issue is that the car starts fine with choke and idles at a reasonable level. However, once I've started driving and if I shift into neutral or park, the engine wants to idle at about 2500 rpms. Also, if I'm driving the car seems to accelerate when I'm not touching gas. Pedal is not stuck. Not a pedal the floor acceleration but definitely accelerates. Any ideas? Vacuum leak? Not sure where to start.
 

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