XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Trunk/Boot Lid Extension: Version 3-Concept Field Test- Jaguar Xj6L, Series 2

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  #1  
Old 11-15-2019, 06:17 PM
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Default Trunk/Boot Lid Hinge Extension: Version 3-Concept Field Test- Jaguar Xj6L, Series 2

I've finished installing the Trunk/Boot Lid Hinge Extensions, here's my report.
Let me begin my saying this concept is nothing short of Brilliant!

I did have a bit if trepidation removing the trunk hinges knowing the originals weren't going back on, so no matter what I marked it didn't matter. But I took a deep breath and followed the Excellent directions, loosening and replacing the Right side first. My trusty Broomstick was pressed into service one more time.


I didn't bother painting anything because my car was repainted anyway, and David's components cover enough of the primer and bare metal to suit me. Besides, I didn't want to take the time.


I couldn't resist trying it out without the keeper brace just to see what it would be like,


Ohhhh, this is Brilliant! Now to put the keeper brace on.
My collection of necessary tools included a small hammer and a brass drift, for small adjustments to the alignment (pound on the bolts and brackets, not on the lid!). This part took me as long as installation.



Here's the OEM opening.


and the Extended opening. There is plenty of room to even reach in from the side if one should desire to do so.
No More head banging!

The Right side installed and operated Flawlessly. I had a little trouble with the left side however, as it requires enthusiast pulling of the lid toward me and to the right before the left extension would drop into position. Even then I had to hold the lid with one hand and shove the extension into place with the other.


It seems to be loosening up with repeated operation though, and might be due to long past damage to that lifting arm, as it might be bent slightly. But it didn't take much to put it into correct position.

This is the extent of travel in the Left slots.


IF you forget to pop the support link forward before lowering the lid, it will go down a little way, but you will have a Seriously racked lid that says, "YOU DUMMY!"


Completely Done! And I only had a few parts left over!

Cute little things. A couple Zip-ties and stick-on clips. I have no idea what they're for but I didn't find a place for them.

In my opinion, even though the Left side is a bit stiff, this concept is a Smashing success. 45 minute installation might be a bit optimistic though. If one was doing this all the time, or even had done it several times as David has done, and knew just what had to be done it could probably be finished in that time, without alignment of the lid to the body. That took me another 45 minutes of rather intense work. But nothing touches now so all is OK.

Pleased is such an understatement! The word doesn't even begin to cover my satisfaction with these little bits of machined steel. Husband likes it too, as he's the one who banged his head most of the time.

Celebration tonight.

(';')
 

Last edited by LnrB; 11-15-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-15-2019, 10:35 PM
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Elinor !!!

Thank you so much for the detailed install report and the picture support... Yes the alignment... now that I have done it 10 times, it still takes time as one side goes in the other out. It is probably a 2+ hour project, and 3+ hours if time were taken for fast dry touch up paint.

Originally my wire loam was tie-rapped to the OEM angle brackets, so include new self adhesive clips.

I think the stiffness on the left, is the weak spring on that side that allows hinge arm to move before the friction of the new hinge mechanism is overcome, while the right side with the gas strut supporting the hinge arm is stable. I have good OEM springs on both sides, and saw no difference in friction side to side. I still lifted with two hands on the sides of the Lid, and yes lift with pull gets the best result. Try lifting & pulling the left side with both hands and see if the right side will follow.

Once again Thank You for your real-world XJ6 expertise on this project

And thanks for starting a new post, as old one had too many rabbit trails

Bst Rgds
David
 

Last edited by David84XJ6; 11-15-2019 at 10:48 PM. Reason: info clarification
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2019, 09:55 AM
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AHA! The Weak Springs! Yes! That's what got this whole thing started!
It makes Perfect sense to me that it's the reason the Left side is so stubborn.

In fact I was so certain I had done something wrong that I took the Left side completely apart and reinstalled it 3 times, lubed it up with WD-40, checked the slides were loose, checked instructions, compared it with Right side with no change in performance.

Finally I said, Well Fan It, put it all back together and started jerking on that Left side with the result you see here.

Thank you, David, for allowing me to Field Test these components.
Even with all the trouble I had with the Left side, this was a Lot of fun.
(';')
 

Last edited by LnrB; 11-16-2019 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 11-16-2019, 02:18 PM
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Elinor !!!

There are a few quick tweaks that may help.

- install your broomstick and towel on the left side with the trunk at OEM open position. You should be able to remove the rear (top 5/16" bolt with bearing stack) and re-lube the inside of bush and bolt shank with heaviest wheel bearing grease you have. Removing one bolt with no load should not change the alignment.
- Take small fine tooth file and smooth as much of the aft face of slot as you can reach.
- Reassemble and ensure that the 5/16 washer under the bolt head turns, indicating that the bush is not clamped.
- Lifting the left side with both hands-pulling aft, should minimize the unsymmetrical movement causing the binding.
- The binding may be coming from the stiffener plate against the Hinge when the racking from unsymmetrical movement occurs ..A little grease between them may also help.

I have sent you a second spring assist kit that should arrive Tuesday. Installing this on the left side will help to see if the unsymmetrical loads from one weak and one strong spring is the problem.
Thanks again for sticking with this.
Rgds
David
 
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:50 PM
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Thank you so much, David!
I have some really obnoxious wheel bearing grease, that kind that strings all over everything but is so slick you can't even hardly hold the can.

I'll be on the lookout for the other strut.
(';')
 
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:51 AM
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Nice job!
It is something i also have to do, so thank you for the clear explanation!@

Greetings, Rudy
 
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Old 11-22-2019, 10:22 PM
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Default Complete Success At Last!

David sent me more struts for testing, a selection of 20# and 30# pressures.

I found the 20# struts to be inadequate even as a pair. They held the lid up sort of, but not securely, as even in my garage with no air movement at all they began to sag after only a few seconds. I can only imagine what would happen outside on windy days like we have experienced lately. With the Extension Locking Link engaged the sagging was uneven, similar to the picture above. I do not recommend the 20# struts for this application.

As seen earlier in this thread, one 30# strut on the Right side gave only limited results, requiring manhandling of the trunk lid to achieve full opening. I installed the other 30# strut David sent on the Left side and the result was Complete Success! The lid holds OEM open securely and with certainly. Engagement of the hinge extensions occurs by merely raising the lid till the locking link engages, without pushing, pulling, shoving, manhandling, or any such nonsense to make the lid raise to the full height and Stay Put! Closing is firm and sure. One must Close the lid, not merely let it drop, because it Will Not Drop on its own.


In my opinion, this combination of two 30# struts + Hinge Extensions is ready for Prime Time.
(';')
 
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  #8  
Old 11-23-2019, 08:23 PM
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Elinor
Excellent!!! Thank you for helping sort the bugs out of the concept. I will update the kit specifications and in the next few days post a solicitation for those that want the Spring Assist Kit and, or the Extended Opening Kit. With your installation and feed-back of both kits, the kits can now be offered with confidence.
Regards
David
 
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2019, 12:28 PM
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Thanks Bill, you are first on the list.
Rgds
David

PS: Can you do a test and post it for others on the 7/8" sag between spring height and up-stop height. Measure the Lid height above the the sill with spring holding and again with a manual lift to the up-stops. Will keep track of feed back on this test in an attempt to define weak and very weak springs.
Thanks for your support. DM

Is this where you are talking about? I don't think it's going to be much of a different height.

Bill




 
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Old 11-26-2019, 02:22 PM
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Bill
Aft lower Lid flange to rubber sill ...My nominal OEM opening height is 31" and 45" at extended opening position
David

 
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:44 AM
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My 1975 SII Couple measures 28 1/4" fully up with just springs holding it. If I push up beyond the springs, it goes to 31"
 
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Old 11-27-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by yachtmanbuttson
My 1975 SII Couple measures 28 1/4" fully up with just springs holding it. If I push up beyond the springs, it goes to 31"
Bill
I think you will appreciate the improvement from 28" to 31" for normal use, and at Extended 45", you will have a 60% improvement for trips to the US open.
Thanks for the info, This lets others easily confirm their need, or not for "Spring Assists Gas Struts".
Rgds
David



 
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