Update on Dijon, issues now
#1
11-30-2010, 04:38 PM
Update on Dijon, issues now
Haven't posted in nearly a year. Here's what's happened with Dijon (which I drive daily, regardless).
1. Pin in driver door that holds it open broke.
2. While making a sharp turn, horn started blaring. Turning wheel made horn stutter on and off, then ON. Had to drive to work with it ONNNN. Waved like the Queen to amused onlookers. Had to disconnect horns to stop the noise, have not undone column yet to investigate.
3. Put in new ciggie lighter (so would be able to use phone charger), but then windows would not work well (hear circuit breaker behind glove box resetting, but still problems) with one or other of windows refusing to work at different times....UNTIL..... fuse blew in ciggie lighter line (in line fuse near glove box) and then the windows work fine. Replaced fuse, windows back to weird. Fuse blows again, windows work fine.
4. Strong smell of gas in trunk at times - figure there is some seepage from hose(s) or even seams - have not fixed yet.
5. Dash wood very yellowed and laquer a bit melty in lines. Need to have this redone/refinished, but told it's a four to five hour job to dismantle dash and haven't wanted to pay to have this done yet.
6. Sometimes low beam headlites won't work while high beams no problem. Some issue with stalk switch, will have to get into that danged column for this as well as horn.
7. Sometimes impossible to start after it sits for a few days. Have to hook up charger/booster to crank it long enough, and then it will reluctantly stutter and then finally fire. Once it fires, no problems firing again unless it sits for awhile. Then repeat of problem.
8. Antenna motor seems to want to try, but the cable is busted. Am not attached to original concept, would like to replace the antenna with a nice modern version, peferably short black like hubby put on his Solstice, made by Opel for Cadet. Anyone done an upgrade/replacement?
9. Love love love my upholstery change. Warm in winter, cool in summer, with just the right amount of flash to suit my eccentric soul.
10. Put on new angle drive so speedo would work. Cable attachment broke at back of speedo, but mech simply pushed cable back into back of unit and it works ok, as does trip meter. If it dislodges (which it hasn't yet) I can just push it back in. (Learned how to push/twist/turn/pull speedo out of dash - simple)
11. Discovered to my great surprise that the cruise control works! Huzzaah!
12. LOVE this car. Not very fond of Lucas.
Cheers everyone.
1. Pin in driver door that holds it open broke.
2. While making a sharp turn, horn started blaring. Turning wheel made horn stutter on and off, then ON. Had to drive to work with it ONNNN. Waved like the Queen to amused onlookers. Had to disconnect horns to stop the noise, have not undone column yet to investigate.
3. Put in new ciggie lighter (so would be able to use phone charger), but then windows would not work well (hear circuit breaker behind glove box resetting, but still problems) with one or other of windows refusing to work at different times....UNTIL..... fuse blew in ciggie lighter line (in line fuse near glove box) and then the windows work fine. Replaced fuse, windows back to weird. Fuse blows again, windows work fine.
4. Strong smell of gas in trunk at times - figure there is some seepage from hose(s) or even seams - have not fixed yet.
5. Dash wood very yellowed and laquer a bit melty in lines. Need to have this redone/refinished, but told it's a four to five hour job to dismantle dash and haven't wanted to pay to have this done yet.
6. Sometimes low beam headlites won't work while high beams no problem. Some issue with stalk switch, will have to get into that danged column for this as well as horn.
7. Sometimes impossible to start after it sits for a few days. Have to hook up charger/booster to crank it long enough, and then it will reluctantly stutter and then finally fire. Once it fires, no problems firing again unless it sits for awhile. Then repeat of problem.
8. Antenna motor seems to want to try, but the cable is busted. Am not attached to original concept, would like to replace the antenna with a nice modern version, peferably short black like hubby put on his Solstice, made by Opel for Cadet. Anyone done an upgrade/replacement?
9. Love love love my upholstery change. Warm in winter, cool in summer, with just the right amount of flash to suit my eccentric soul.
10. Put on new angle drive so speedo would work. Cable attachment broke at back of speedo, but mech simply pushed cable back into back of unit and it works ok, as does trip meter. If it dislodges (which it hasn't yet) I can just push it back in. (Learned how to push/twist/turn/pull speedo out of dash - simple)
11. Discovered to my great surprise that the cruise control works! Huzzaah!
12. LOVE this car. Not very fond of Lucas.
Cheers everyone.
#2
12-02-2010, 07:28 PM
Whoa, too many issues not nuff threads! 
1: Need to install new/used door hinge. A pain, but possible. Perhaps use a floor jack with a pad to hold the weight of the door while it is open and you are messing with the hinge. Also, you could secure the door by using some straps to the ceiling, connected to the window frame with padded hooks. Just be careful setting up the support system you use. A helper is good too, especially when lining up the door before final tightening.
2: I ran into this problem recently and found it was something simple. I removed the horn pad on the steering wheel (two screws on the back of the wheel). There is a nylon hex head in the center of the wheel that holds the contact rod for the horn. On my car, tightening the nylon hex clockwise secured the contact and the horn stopped staying on. Checking for a loose contact rod by looking at this hex thing is the first step. Don't pull that nylon hex and brass rod out, it is difficult to reinstall if the spring inside the column pops out of place.
If that does not resolve it, you may have to take apart the column at worst, and figure out the problem. I had to do this to mine because someone had bypassed the original horn switch with a button. I found that there was a brass collar that had slipped down the shaft, breaking the contact path between the center rod and the outer shell where the sliding contacts ride. The brass collar is insulated from the column by two half-round plastic pieces that form a ring under the brass collar. There is a hole through the plastic, and it allows a spring to contact the brass ring and the center rod. I replaced the spring with one from a Pilot G2 Gel pen, shielded the spring with a plastic piece cut from a Bic Biro pen barrel and glued the two half-round plastic pieces back in place. Then slid the brass collar back over the plastic pieces while holding the spring compressed. Finally, used some small wire to keep the fingers on the brass collar tight on the plastic ring, and added a little more glue to hopefully hold the collar in place for good.
3: Sounds like something is shorted in your newly installed ciggie lighter. Disconnect it and check for continuity between the two wires going to it. You should see very high resistance, ideally the meter would read infinite or O.L. for out of limits. If the two wires are touching each other, or if the ciggie lighter socket is defective (the inner contact somehow touching the shell), then you'd need to fix or replace it. First make sure you connected it properly, make sure the proper wire is ground, I believe the shell wire is ground and the center contact is the power.
4: Yes, the old hoses are seeping or there is a loose clamp. Best advice is to replace all the hoses, using only Fuel Injection rated hose that says SAE J30R9, it has a special liner that is fuel resistant, and is less permeable, so it really prevents smells from coming right through the hose. It is also rated for higher pressure than regular J30R7 hose. I did all these on mine, and I used a combination of Goodyear hose and Gates hose. The Gates appeared to be slightly nicer hose, with a thicker, nicer finish on the outer part of the hose. I think it was from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Most of it is 5/16. There is a FAQ on jaglovers about the sizes. The big fat hoses are 7/16, but that size is apparently not available in fuel injection hose. I found this size at O'Reilly and CarQuest if I remember right. I used some 7/16 Gates 4219G that seems pretty good, but I notice I can smell a faint whiff of gas if I sniff it directly. Not so on the 5/16 injection hose. With the addition of ethanol to most new fuel, top quality hoses are a must.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/fuelhose.htm
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/fuelfilter.htm
5: The wood can be refinished if you want to keep it original, or you can buy new from various suppliers. Check the jagweb section of vendors at jaglovers. Saul at British Autowood has a good reputation. Ebay is also an option. Start by reading up here:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/woodfinish.htm
7: Possible fuel pressure problem. Install a new fuel filter while installing the hoses. Flush out the tanks to get as much rust out as possible. Then run some good fuel injection cleaner. If the problem persists, use a gauge at the fuel rail by connecting it to the barb for the cold start injector, and see what the pressure is when the problem occurs. If low, then plug the return line from the fuel pressure regulator (this can be done on the driver side of the engine compartment, there is a length of hose there). Good idea to also replace all engine compartment hoses with FI rated hoses. If the fuel pressure is still low, then the pump is weak and needs to be replaced. Take out the pump and try flushing it out, it may be clogged with rust particles. If so, the in-tank pre-filters need replaced. Or install some inline filters in the 7/16 feed hose. Finally, after renewing the hoses, flushing the rust, and replacing filter, consider having the fuel injectors reconditioned. Best to do this at the time you plan to replace the injector hoses. They may be producing some poor spray patterns, and that makes it harder for the spark plugs to ignite the fuel mix. A well vaporized spray pattern is essential for quick starting.
http://www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com/
http://www.jagbits.com/nostart.html
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/x...tchecklist.htm
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/jag/injectors/
8: Antenna is doable, pretty basic, just remove the original and find one you like. Connect the coaxial cable from the old antenna to the new. Any car stereo shop should be able to help. Remove the taillight lens and bulb assembly to get to the antenna from underneath. A lot of people have done this.
Lucas is not so bad once you get to know him. Take care of his basic needs, like clean contacts at all connections, a little dielectric grease anywhere a connection is exposed to weather. Have a selection of wire brushes like the type used for cleaning engines or guns, and use them to clean inside the female barrels for the bullet connectors like the ones on top of each fender. Do this at fuses, ground points, and at the studs on the firewall where the battery cable and alternator cable connect. Clean, grease, reconnect will prevent many issues. Any time you disconnect a wire for any reason, pay attention to this concept and it will help the car be more dependable.
Glad you are enjoying your car, now show us some pics! Unless I missed them, I want to see the interior modifications.
Finally, check out this list of FAQ's that are quite helpful, but sometimes tricky to find on jaglovers.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/x...0%28General%29
This is total information overload, I know, but if you like to read and learn, check here for some good downloadable books:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/books.html
I have uploaded some of my diagrams and stuff here, good stuff to have if you work on your own car:
http://cid-562a51a1e467595c.office.l...se.aspx/Jaguar
1: Need to install new/used door hinge. A pain, but possible. Perhaps use a floor jack with a pad to hold the weight of the door while it is open and you are messing with the hinge. Also, you could secure the door by using some straps to the ceiling, connected to the window frame with padded hooks. Just be careful setting up the support system you use. A helper is good too, especially when lining up the door before final tightening.
2: I ran into this problem recently and found it was something simple. I removed the horn pad on the steering wheel (two screws on the back of the wheel). There is a nylon hex head in the center of the wheel that holds the contact rod for the horn. On my car, tightening the nylon hex clockwise secured the contact and the horn stopped staying on. Checking for a loose contact rod by looking at this hex thing is the first step. Don't pull that nylon hex and brass rod out, it is difficult to reinstall if the spring inside the column pops out of place.
If that does not resolve it, you may have to take apart the column at worst, and figure out the problem. I had to do this to mine because someone had bypassed the original horn switch with a button. I found that there was a brass collar that had slipped down the shaft, breaking the contact path between the center rod and the outer shell where the sliding contacts ride. The brass collar is insulated from the column by two half-round plastic pieces that form a ring under the brass collar. There is a hole through the plastic, and it allows a spring to contact the brass ring and the center rod. I replaced the spring with one from a Pilot G2 Gel pen, shielded the spring with a plastic piece cut from a Bic Biro pen barrel and glued the two half-round plastic pieces back in place. Then slid the brass collar back over the plastic pieces while holding the spring compressed. Finally, used some small wire to keep the fingers on the brass collar tight on the plastic ring, and added a little more glue to hopefully hold the collar in place for good.
3: Sounds like something is shorted in your newly installed ciggie lighter. Disconnect it and check for continuity between the two wires going to it. You should see very high resistance, ideally the meter would read infinite or O.L. for out of limits. If the two wires are touching each other, or if the ciggie lighter socket is defective (the inner contact somehow touching the shell), then you'd need to fix or replace it. First make sure you connected it properly, make sure the proper wire is ground, I believe the shell wire is ground and the center contact is the power.
4: Yes, the old hoses are seeping or there is a loose clamp. Best advice is to replace all the hoses, using only Fuel Injection rated hose that says SAE J30R9, it has a special liner that is fuel resistant, and is less permeable, so it really prevents smells from coming right through the hose. It is also rated for higher pressure than regular J30R7 hose. I did all these on mine, and I used a combination of Goodyear hose and Gates hose. The Gates appeared to be slightly nicer hose, with a thicker, nicer finish on the outer part of the hose. I think it was from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Most of it is 5/16. There is a FAQ on jaglovers about the sizes. The big fat hoses are 7/16, but that size is apparently not available in fuel injection hose. I found this size at O'Reilly and CarQuest if I remember right. I used some 7/16 Gates 4219G that seems pretty good, but I notice I can smell a faint whiff of gas if I sniff it directly. Not so on the 5/16 injection hose. With the addition of ethanol to most new fuel, top quality hoses are a must.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/fuelhose.htm
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/fuelfilter.htm
5: The wood can be refinished if you want to keep it original, or you can buy new from various suppliers. Check the jagweb section of vendors at jaglovers. Saul at British Autowood has a good reputation. Ebay is also an option. Start by reading up here:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/woodfinish.htm
7: Possible fuel pressure problem. Install a new fuel filter while installing the hoses. Flush out the tanks to get as much rust out as possible. Then run some good fuel injection cleaner. If the problem persists, use a gauge at the fuel rail by connecting it to the barb for the cold start injector, and see what the pressure is when the problem occurs. If low, then plug the return line from the fuel pressure regulator (this can be done on the driver side of the engine compartment, there is a length of hose there). Good idea to also replace all engine compartment hoses with FI rated hoses. If the fuel pressure is still low, then the pump is weak and needs to be replaced. Take out the pump and try flushing it out, it may be clogged with rust particles. If so, the in-tank pre-filters need replaced. Or install some inline filters in the 7/16 feed hose. Finally, after renewing the hoses, flushing the rust, and replacing filter, consider having the fuel injectors reconditioned. Best to do this at the time you plan to replace the injector hoses. They may be producing some poor spray patterns, and that makes it harder for the spark plugs to ignite the fuel mix. A well vaporized spray pattern is essential for quick starting.
http://www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com/
http://www.jagbits.com/nostart.html
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/x...tchecklist.htm
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/jag/injectors/
8: Antenna is doable, pretty basic, just remove the original and find one you like. Connect the coaxial cable from the old antenna to the new. Any car stereo shop should be able to help. Remove the taillight lens and bulb assembly to get to the antenna from underneath. A lot of people have done this.
Lucas is not so bad once you get to know him. Take care of his basic needs, like clean contacts at all connections, a little dielectric grease anywhere a connection is exposed to weather. Have a selection of wire brushes like the type used for cleaning engines or guns, and use them to clean inside the female barrels for the bullet connectors like the ones on top of each fender. Do this at fuses, ground points, and at the studs on the firewall where the battery cable and alternator cable connect. Clean, grease, reconnect will prevent many issues. Any time you disconnect a wire for any reason, pay attention to this concept and it will help the car be more dependable.
Glad you are enjoying your car, now show us some pics! Unless I missed them, I want to see the interior modifications.
Finally, check out this list of FAQ's that are quite helpful, but sometimes tricky to find on jaglovers.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/x...0%28General%29
This is total information overload, I know, but if you like to read and learn, check here for some good downloadable books:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/books.html
I have uploaded some of my diagrams and stuff here, good stuff to have if you work on your own car:
http://cid-562a51a1e467595c.office.l...se.aspx/Jaguar
The following users liked this post:
CatLovr (12-03-2010)
#3
12-03-2010, 12:46 PM
Wow, am going to print this out an tackle things one by one. Amazing, thank you.
I took pix awhile ago of the new interior, but somehow didn't get them just right as they don't really show the interior as nice as it is. Frustrating, because I'm a professional photographer! So, the old album is on my profile here, and I'm going to take some new snaps soon too.
I took pix awhile ago of the new interior, but somehow didn't get them just right as they don't really show the interior as nice as it is. Frustrating, because I'm a professional photographer! So, the old album is on my profile here, and I'm going to take some new snaps soon too.
#4
12-03-2010, 11:21 PM
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