water on the top of hte engine
#21
02-28-2018, 12:57 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,929
Received 10,989 Likes
on
7,216 Posts
The following users liked this post:
xjfourty (02-28-2018)
#22
02-28-2018, 02:36 AM
Senior Member
Hi xjforty,
Knock it out and put a new one in.
I had a weeping one which let go in traffic a couple of years ago.
Really not that hard.
Replacement core plugs in Oz are plentiful and cheap and made of brass.
Looking at your photo's, there is a lot of coolant residue in that valley.
I broke the silver card thingy swerving through through the spark plugs when I fixed my one, but then again, I removed all of that when I removed the air pump and all of it's plumbing a little while later.
My old plug dropped into the head, but I used a powerful magnet to find and recover it.
New plug belted in easily. Just remember to smear a sealant around its edges before you fit it.
To fit, use a socket one size smaller with a mallet. Easy
Cheers and good luck'
Nigel
Knock it out and put a new one in.
I had a weeping one which let go in traffic a couple of years ago.
Really not that hard.
Replacement core plugs in Oz are plentiful and cheap and made of brass.
Looking at your photo's, there is a lot of coolant residue in that valley.
I broke the silver card thingy swerving through through the spark plugs when I fixed my one, but then again, I removed all of that when I removed the air pump and all of it's plumbing a little while later.
My old plug dropped into the head, but I used a powerful magnet to find and recover it.
New plug belted in easily. Just remember to smear a sealant around its edges before you fit it.
To fit, use a socket one size smaller with a mallet. Easy
Cheers and good luck'
Nigel
#26
03-01-2018, 05:24 AM
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Posts: 28,381
Received 6,327 Likes
on
4,370 Posts
The following users liked this post:
xjfourty (03-01-2018)
#27
03-01-2018, 05:28 PM
Looks too complicate for me. I'll have to ask the mechanic to do it it depends how much he's gonna charge me...
#28
03-01-2018, 09:35 PM
Senior Member
Hi xjfourty,
It's a pretty easy job if a little time consuming.
Time is what will cost you in the shop.
The tubing on top is the smog pump plumbing.
Loosen and detach all six nuts and you should be able to lift the whole kit and kaboodle out of the way. I just removed it full stop when I did my one.
Just remember to blank off each opening with some tape to stop foreign matter from getting into the head.
It is also a good idea to take the leads off the spark plugs on either side of where you are working to make some more room.
If you do go ahead, don't do what I did and lever the core plug removal tool against one of the spark plugs as you will probably shatter the porcelain part of the plug like I did, which made getting that one out a whole lot of fun.
If you ask anyone who deals with these engines for core plugs, I would be very surprised if they don't literally reach behind and pull them out for you as they are readily available.
From memory there was a choice of two materials but I wanted and fitted a brass one.
Oh, and get a vacuum cleaner out and suck all the crap out of the valley before you remove anything physically from the head as foreign matter falling into the head is not ideal.
Cheers and good luck,
Nigel
It's a pretty easy job if a little time consuming.
Time is what will cost you in the shop.
The tubing on top is the smog pump plumbing.
Loosen and detach all six nuts and you should be able to lift the whole kit and kaboodle out of the way. I just removed it full stop when I did my one.
Just remember to blank off each opening with some tape to stop foreign matter from getting into the head.
It is also a good idea to take the leads off the spark plugs on either side of where you are working to make some more room.
If you do go ahead, don't do what I did and lever the core plug removal tool against one of the spark plugs as you will probably shatter the porcelain part of the plug like I did, which made getting that one out a whole lot of fun.
If you ask anyone who deals with these engines for core plugs, I would be very surprised if they don't literally reach behind and pull them out for you as they are readily available.
From memory there was a choice of two materials but I wanted and fitted a brass one.
Oh, and get a vacuum cleaner out and suck all the crap out of the valley before you remove anything physically from the head as foreign matter falling into the head is not ideal.
Cheers and good luck,
Nigel
The following users liked this post:
xjfourty (03-01-2018)
#29
03-02-2018, 02:39 AM
Senior Member
Hi xjfourty,
I just re read this post from the beginning.
Do NOT use Bars Stop Leak crap.
If you are 1000 miles from civilization and you need to outrun a psycho then maybe as an absolute last resort.
Bars clogs up your cooling system, hence its' potential to stopping leaks.
Jaguar stopped recommending this product when they realised how much damage it was doing through constricting the radiator tubes and how much they were spending on warranty jobs related to the use of this product.
The best way to fix a leak is, well, fix the leak.
Cheers,
Nigel
I just re read this post from the beginning.
Do NOT use Bars Stop Leak crap.
If you are 1000 miles from civilization and you need to outrun a psycho then maybe as an absolute last resort.
Bars clogs up your cooling system, hence its' potential to stopping leaks.
Jaguar stopped recommending this product when they realised how much damage it was doing through constricting the radiator tubes and how much they were spending on warranty jobs related to the use of this product.
The best way to fix a leak is, well, fix the leak.
Cheers,
Nigel
#30
03-02-2018, 09:55 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
YUP!
The location of these seem to be just right for a healthy slide hammer to remove them.
If one is lucky, one or more may come out sufficiently intact to take tot he local parts house as a sample. If not, measure carefully and draw a picture for a "real partsman" to match. Not the kid insisting on a make and model to enter into the computer.Although, the latter just might work!!!
Space limitations will hamper removal of the air rail. Good "excuse" for some Crows feet tools. The ideal would be a fare wrench, but bent at a 90 !!!!
Carl
The location of these seem to be just right for a healthy slide hammer to remove them.
If one is lucky, one or more may come out sufficiently intact to take tot he local parts house as a sample. If not, measure carefully and draw a picture for a "real partsman" to match. Not the kid insisting on a make and model to enter into the computer.Although, the latter just might work!!!
Space limitations will hamper removal of the air rail. Good "excuse" for some Crows feet tools. The ideal would be a fare wrench, but bent at a 90 !!!!
Carl
The following users liked this post:
xjfourty (03-02-2018)
#31
03-02-2018, 07:57 PM
You re totally right.
My mechanic gave me this hint. So I guess I Should change mechanic.
My mechanic gave me this hint. So I guess I Should change mechanic.
Hi xjfourty,
I just re read this post from the beginning.
Do NOT use Bars Stop Leak crap.
If you are 1000 miles from civilization and you need to outrun a psycho then maybe as an absolute last resort.
Bars clogs up your cooling system, hence its' potential to stopping leaks.
Jaguar stopped recommending this product when they realised how much damage it was doing through constricting the radiator tubes and how much they were spending on warranty jobs related to the use of this product.
The best way to fix a leak is, well, fix the leak.
Cheers,
Nigel
I just re read this post from the beginning.
Do NOT use Bars Stop Leak crap.
If you are 1000 miles from civilization and you need to outrun a psycho then maybe as an absolute last resort.
Bars clogs up your cooling system, hence its' potential to stopping leaks.
Jaguar stopped recommending this product when they realised how much damage it was doing through constricting the radiator tubes and how much they were spending on warranty jobs related to the use of this product.
The best way to fix a leak is, well, fix the leak.
Cheers,
Nigel
#32
03-02-2018, 08:16 PM
Senior Member
Hi xjfourty,
Any mechanic worth their tools would be aghast at the mere mention or hint of using a gumming up product to fix a leak as an every day solution.
If they use these products, they probably also 'cure' your slipping auto transmission bands by stuffing banana skins into the casing yet still charge for the inconvenience of you having to fix it properly in the very near future.
Walk away and find a decent mechanic. Cowboys belonged in the wild west for a reason.
Just my nickels' worth.
Cheers,
Nigel
Any mechanic worth their tools would be aghast at the mere mention or hint of using a gumming up product to fix a leak as an every day solution.
If they use these products, they probably also 'cure' your slipping auto transmission bands by stuffing banana skins into the casing yet still charge for the inconvenience of you having to fix it properly in the very near future.
Walk away and find a decent mechanic. Cowboys belonged in the wild west for a reason.
Just my nickels' worth.
Cheers,
Nigel
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Timothy
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
16
05-16-2012 07:14 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)