what oil should i use? main crank seal leaking bad
#1
what oil should i use? main crank seal leaking bad
I'm sure its my rear crank seal leaking as the previous owner told me its a common problem because the rope seal and then a brittle plastic one etc He rebuilt the engine himself and was a jaguar collector but the car never really got used to often so im assuming the seal got dry old and brittle.
My series 2 jaguar is leaking alot lately it was parked up for 12months not being used because i got a new transmission for it now it seems to love dripping oil and probably using more while driving, i always have to top it up heaps like everytime i drive it i top it up to be safe.
I'm not fixing the main seal thats out of the question i just need it to stop leaking to a bareable condition untill i get money to do an engine swap for a 350 chev.
What oil should i be using? lately iv just been using the cheapest possible because of the leak but would a good brand thick full synthetic oil stop it from leaking bad? or is there any additives that are safe and work? What type of oil should i be using?
I dont want to put extra thick oil in and ruin the engine so hoping for some advice before hand.
My series 2 jaguar is leaking alot lately it was parked up for 12months not being used because i got a new transmission for it now it seems to love dripping oil and probably using more while driving, i always have to top it up heaps like everytime i drive it i top it up to be safe.
I'm not fixing the main seal thats out of the question i just need it to stop leaking to a bareable condition untill i get money to do an engine swap for a 350 chev.
What oil should i be using? lately iv just been using the cheapest possible because of the leak but would a good brand thick full synthetic oil stop it from leaking bad? or is there any additives that are safe and work? What type of oil should i be using?
I dont want to put extra thick oil in and ruin the engine so hoping for some advice before hand.
#2
In my experience, NO oil on the market, be it engine oil, snake oil, snake oil additives, will stop, or even decrease the rope seal issue.
Agreed, lack of use can have them dry out and "weep" when put back into service. They usually "take up" withing a few hundred kms, if they are ever going to.
The fact he "did the engine up" sounds horribly like he did not fit the seals properly, and I bet he never sized the assembly with the proper tool?.
Rope seals are tricky to fit so leaks do not occur, and it took me a long time to get it right.
Without telling you how to do things, I would make real sure it is the rear seal that is actually leaking. Take off the tin pan cover, and using a strong LED torch peer into the depths real carefully. Weeping seals are much more common, and more messy than actually pouring out.
Have a good look at the 5/8" drain back oil hose on the oil filter housing, that is a major leaker, and a PAIN to replace, as is the o/ring for that drain pipe where it meets the sump. That o/ring is Genuine only.
Agreed, lack of use can have them dry out and "weep" when put back into service. They usually "take up" withing a few hundred kms, if they are ever going to.
The fact he "did the engine up" sounds horribly like he did not fit the seals properly, and I bet he never sized the assembly with the proper tool?.
Rope seals are tricky to fit so leaks do not occur, and it took me a long time to get it right.
Without telling you how to do things, I would make real sure it is the rear seal that is actually leaking. Take off the tin pan cover, and using a strong LED torch peer into the depths real carefully. Weeping seals are much more common, and more messy than actually pouring out.
Have a good look at the 5/8" drain back oil hose on the oil filter housing, that is a major leaker, and a PAIN to replace, as is the o/ring for that drain pipe where it meets the sump. That o/ring is Genuine only.
#3
Cheers for that, I think i know what drain bit your talking about because there is a pipe leading back to the sump that where it bolts down it has a heap of sealant around it, Will jack it on a fine day and get my torch out and have a good look.
and he probably did put the seal on wrong, because the engine has only done 20,000kms since a full rebuild have the receipts and all that as well and photos of the rebuild, but im not sure how long he had it sitting it looked like it just sat in his garage unused for at least 2years because he already had 4 other cars in there lol i just never thought that a rebuilt engine sitting is not a good thing.
and he probably did put the seal on wrong, because the engine has only done 20,000kms since a full rebuild have the receipts and all that as well and photos of the rebuild, but im not sure how long he had it sitting it looked like it just sat in his garage unused for at least 2years because he already had 4 other cars in there lol i just never thought that a rebuilt engine sitting is not a good thing.
#4
AHA, the RTV on that pipe is a dead give away.
Many, many people try a generic o/ring her, it simply will not work. For some strange reason the thickness is simply not there. The OE seal is quite "fat" and obviously does the task well.
A rebuilt, unrun engine sitting is generally quite a happy camper. I had a HE V12 sitting for 5 years, fitted it eventually, and good as any other I have done.
Many, many people try a generic o/ring her, it simply will not work. For some strange reason the thickness is simply not there. The OE seal is quite "fat" and obviously does the task well.
A rebuilt, unrun engine sitting is generally quite a happy camper. I had a HE V12 sitting for 5 years, fitted it eventually, and good as any other I have done.
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RoyLittle0
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05-25-2023 02:38 AM
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