Wiring cigar lighter socket via ignition, ideas?
#1
Wiring cigar lighter socket via ignition, ideas?
I'm in the process of installing a dash cam, which is one of the few after market gizmo's I find worthwhile. After concealing 95% of the wiring with USB's at either end, power will come from a USB adapter plugged into the cigar lighter socket (the adapter also being necessary to avoid frying the device). To my surprise both the cigar lighters in this car are live full time, however I want the cam to start and shut down with the ignition. My previous cars always had lighters that worked only with ignition on, so it's never been an issue in the past.
So my question is, can anyone suggest an effective way to rewire the cigar lighter via ignition, preferably without dismantling half the dash/console area?
Cheers,
So my question is, can anyone suggest an effective way to rewire the cigar lighter via ignition, preferably without dismantling half the dash/console area?
Cheers,
#2
Hi Tony
Looking at the S57 , there are two nearby possibilities tapping switched 12V at the radio or on one side of the inertia switch. The glove box light also looks like it only works when the ignition switch is on, which seems odd to me.
Once you pick up the 12V , you should think about fuse rating on whatever cct you use. For what you plan its probably no issue (guessing 1-2A) but if anyone plugs in a lighter (or like us a car fridge) a fuse may pfffffft or damage wiring if its the wrong fuse.
Anyway, just some ideas.
The line added to my sig, is somewhat ironic in this thread.
Looking at the S57 , there are two nearby possibilities tapping switched 12V at the radio or on one side of the inertia switch. The glove box light also looks like it only works when the ignition switch is on, which seems odd to me.
Once you pick up the 12V , you should think about fuse rating on whatever cct you use. For what you plan its probably no issue (guessing 1-2A) but if anyone plugs in a lighter (or like us a car fridge) a fuse may pfffffft or damage wiring if its the wrong fuse.
Anyway, just some ideas.
The line added to my sig, is somewhat ironic in this thread.
Last edited by yarpos; 09-05-2015 at 06:22 AM.
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#3
look at the White/Pink stripe wire at the ignition switch wiring harness.
the radio's Yellow power wire & fuse taps into this White/Pink stripe wire, i.e. the radio only comes on when ignition is on.
tap the camera wire to it just like the radio wire.
will this cause an overload by adding the camera power wire? I have no clue.
the radio's Yellow power wire & fuse taps into this White/Pink stripe wire, i.e. the radio only comes on when ignition is on.
tap the camera wire to it just like the radio wire.
will this cause an overload by adding the camera power wire? I have no clue.
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#4
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There are various ways.
If I understand correctly you are required to use a cigarette light adapter. Is that correct?
Easiest access to the purple cig lighter wire is in the console, forward and to the right of the gearshift. That's where the cig lighter fuse is. Just remove the RH cheek panel and reach aft into the console. It's there. Cut the wire, extend it, and tap into a switched 12v source. I'd tap into one of the red/slate wires coming off the power window relay, personally.
Or it would be a very simple matter to add a stand alone relay for your camera.
How many amps does the camera draw?
Cheers
DD
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#5
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My car's cigar lighter is igntion on powered only.
As my car is a bie different, I needed an ignition on power source. I found the white from switch to inertia switch an easily located wire and easy splice.
As the ignition switch is a tad light, I would recommend a relay as per Doug.
And, S57 is most certainly a "must read". Just a great source for answers to speciific issues as well as a general understanding of Jaguar electrics logic.
Might be the occasion to splice in a blade fuse holder in lieu of the inline tube fuase gadget.
Had an academic electrics discussion with son on crimp vs solder connections.
His antique but productive CNC suffered a failure in it's computer. It directs programed cuts in X,Y and Z axis!!!! A couple of cold solder joint failures. and there are many...
Carl
As my car is a bie different, I needed an ignition on power source. I found the white from switch to inertia switch an easily located wire and easy splice.
As the ignition switch is a tad light, I would recommend a relay as per Doug.
And, S57 is most certainly a "must read". Just a great source for answers to speciific issues as well as a general understanding of Jaguar electrics logic.
Might be the occasion to splice in a blade fuse holder in lieu of the inline tube fuase gadget.
Had an academic electrics discussion with son on crimp vs solder connections.
His antique but productive CNC suffered a failure in it's computer. It directs programed cuts in X,Y and Z axis!!!! A couple of cold solder joint failures. and there are many...
Carl
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#6
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#7
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, using a combo of your ideas I will definitely have a solution.
Doug & Steve,
The device pulls 2 amps and requires 5v. The adapter is essential to achieve this and is rated accordingly, so whichever wiring route I take I will end it using an aux female lighter socket to carry the adapter, all of which can be neatly tucked out of view. Agreed, a stand alone relay is sound.
Cheers,
Doug & Steve,
The device pulls 2 amps and requires 5v. The adapter is essential to achieve this and is rated accordingly, so whichever wiring route I take I will end it using an aux female lighter socket to carry the adapter, all of which can be neatly tucked out of view. Agreed, a stand alone relay is sound.
Cheers,
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#8
I wasnt sure if you are trying to convert the existing socket to be switched or are putting in a new socket. The relay would make the existing socket switch with power, but if you are putting in a separate outlet, it could probably hook up to any of the sources as its only roughly 1A at 12V. No harm in going the relay route though, as it makes it "future proof".
Only had it a week and pulling the dash apart Tony? I would accuse you of tinkerage, but that would be a little rich coming from me :-)
Only had it a week and pulling the dash apart Tony? I would accuse you of tinkerage, but that would be a little rich coming from me :-)
Last edited by yarpos; 09-05-2015 at 05:58 PM.
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jagent (09-05-2015)
#9
I wasnt sure if you are trying to convert the existing socket to be switched or are putting in a new socket. The relay would make the existing socket switch with power, but if you are putting in a separate outlet, it could probably hook up to any of the sources as its only roughly 1A at 12V. No harm in going the relay route though, as it makes it "future proof".
Only had it a week and pulling the dash apart Tony? I would accuse you of tinkerage, but that would be a little rich coming from me :-)
Only had it a week and pulling the dash apart Tony? I would accuse you of tinkerage, but that would be a little rich coming from me :-)
Having thought about the options I'm moving towards an aux socket and leaving the existing one alone (even if I decide to source power from the cig. lighter circuit). The benefit is having all the wiring concealed so I don't have a USB cable hanging out of the cig. lighter - you know I'm a neat freak!!
Week? been a month already! Anyway, tinkering is an affliction mate, and we're hooked although my objective was to absolutely avoid pulling the dash apart if possible!!
#10
#11
Sorted...
All the good tips here made me think a bit more. In the end I decided against ignition switching the cigar lighter and instead went after an already switched circuit.
I had the seat cushion out to fix the power lift problem, and it became obvious I could tap into that circuit for the dash cam. I spliced in an aux lighter socket and plugged a 5v 2amp adaptor into that, all concealed under the seat. I ran the USB cable under the carpet along the sill, up under the dash leaving a small length exposed for connection to the cam. I prefer to mount cams close the A pillar base simply for neater wiring, plus it makes the cam more discreet. Works fine, the multiple lens still capture a good 180 degree view from that position.
There may be some benefits to leaving the original lighter socket free e.g. phone charging...
Cheers,
I had the seat cushion out to fix the power lift problem, and it became obvious I could tap into that circuit for the dash cam. I spliced in an aux lighter socket and plugged a 5v 2amp adaptor into that, all concealed under the seat. I ran the USB cable under the carpet along the sill, up under the dash leaving a small length exposed for connection to the cam. I prefer to mount cams close the A pillar base simply for neater wiring, plus it makes the cam more discreet. Works fine, the multiple lens still capture a good 180 degree view from that position.
There may be some benefits to leaving the original lighter socket free e.g. phone charging...
Cheers,
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