XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

XJ12C: Car body work estimation

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Old 03-14-2021, 09:46 AM
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Default XJ12C: Car body work estimation

Hi
I will post an impossible question, lets see what comes out...

I had the car body acid dipped and electro coated (dont know the real word for this process). Anyway, the car is rust free and black.
I had an estimation done by car body specialist how much it would cost to have all welding work done and I want to check if it is reasonable.

His estimation was without actually producing or buying necessary steel parts, only welding.

How many man days / man hours would it take for a professional car body specialist (only the welding)?

Main needed work (most damages are identical left/right):
- Exchange sills, inner & outer
- Exchange or patch floor plates, both sides
- Minor holes in quarter panels
- Patching between quarter panels and sills (under windows in the back)
- Minor holes in Front fenders
- Engine compartment, patching side plates (towards wheel arch)
- Engine compartment, patching where wiper engine is placed
- Exchanging thicker plates in front wheel arches thet holds the beams / hinges for hood
- 10-20 smaller holes to be filled (e.g. screw holes in bonnet)

I know its impossible to say without looking at the car, but take a guess
br
Marcus
Some pictures:



Left / back wheel arch




 
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Old 03-14-2021, 11:03 AM
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I would have done all the metal work first and then dip the body.

It's in the hands of the metal specialist. Whatever he charges for his work and whatever you can afford. There is no answer.
 
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Old 03-14-2021, 01:33 PM
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Were it back in the day, in my former profession, on occasion, I would write a collision repair estimate. Not my favorite task.

Applying my technique to your projec, assign a time by hour in decimal form.

EG:

Exchange sills left and right, inner and outter 6.0

Continue as per your lisit.

Total the hour column.

Multiply buy the shop rate, around here at least $150.00 per hour

Add material costs. Weld rod, gas and primer.

Add debris disposal

Two large beers to calm your nerves !!!!
 
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Old 03-14-2021, 03:00 PM
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Main needed work (most damages are identical left/right):
Exchange sills, inner & outer
This is a big job because the top-rear of the sill is covered by the rear wing, so this is probably the biggest job on the car. I would say about 2 days per side at least on this one, maybe more.

- Exchange or patch floor plates, both sides
Looking at your photos, I see a weld line on the transmission tunnel indicating previous repairs here. I'm not sure, but you may be able to get repair panels for the floors

Minor holes in quarter panels
At one time you could buy new ones, as they are bolt-on. If so, this will be cheaper than repairing, I would think, but it is a long time since I repaired my Series 3 shell.

- Patching between quarter panels and sills (under windows in the back)
the rear of the wheel arch is likely to be badly corroded, but the good news is repair is fairly easy, and I did mine myself using a Mig welder, and I'm an amateur ! However, the area where the door would be on a 4 door saloon is a very well known rusting area, so you might find a lot of work in this area once the sills are removed. The drainage off the rear side windows was not good.

Minor holes in Front fenders
make sure you replace the brackets that hold the inner wheel arch closing panels whilst the wings are off. The closing panel at the front of the sill probably also needs replacing at the same time as the sills

Engine compartment, patching side plates (towards wheel arch)
Doesn't look a lot of work there but of course there is the prep work to do; it all takes time !!

Engine compartment, patching where wiper engine is placed
as above

Exchanging thicker plates in front wheel arches thet holds the beams / hinges for hood
OK

10-20 smaller holes to be filled (e.g. screw holes in bonnet)
OK

Have you inspected the rear valance and boot floor yet ? This is another well-known rust area, as are the rear wheel arch lips.

You don't say where you are located, but if you assume about 45 hours @£60 an hour you're looking at £2700. That's only a guess, mind you.
 
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Old 03-15-2021, 12:58 PM
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Thats a good start, I have enough beer =)
 
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Old 03-15-2021, 01:15 PM
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Hi all
Thanks for the input.
- The rear valance and boot floor is in good condition as far as I have seen so far... Will have a closer look when temperature is more humane in the garage...
- The car has been welded in the sills at least one time before. I am guessing sometime in the 80s.
- I dont think the quarter panels are available but I will keep looking.
- I will keep an eye on "Harrys Garage" on Youtube. He just sent his XJC for rust repair. Great show =)

The offer I got from the car body specialist was 500 hours (+/- 15%) for the welding work only. Unclear if tinning was included. This would be 12.5 working weeks for one person.

To do everything, from welding until finished painted carbody he estimated 48 000 Euro (57 000 USD). Buying or manufacturing new panels still not included.

This company is based in Germany. I live in Switzerland.

I think its time to buy a MIG welder and start learning...

​​​​​​
 
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:40 PM
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I think I'd get another quote. Find someone qualified and hire them for one week and see how far they get. I like the idea of getting your own MIG or better yet, a TIG welder and doing it yourself. Nobody cares more about your project than you do.
 
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Old 03-20-2021, 07:16 AM
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If you had asked this question 15 or 20 years ago, when I was in the midst of conversations with a number of different shops, I would have said the minimum including all labor through final paint but not including parts would have been US$30,000 regardless of if it's an old Ford, MG, or Jag. More if there's extensive repairs needed. That's why I restored my 356 myself. Today that number would obviously be higher. This would be in New Jersey/New York area.
 
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Old 03-20-2021, 07:41 AM
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I second on doing it yourself. Getting the thing clean enough to work on is a big piece of the battle.
 
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