My 1980 Xj6 4.2L just stopped 2 weeks ago while I was driving. I havnt yet been able to start her up but have done a few things which others may benefit from which I will discuss.<br />
The car cranks over, but I have no spark on main HT coil NOR any electrical pulse at the fuel injectors (NOID light attatched and it didn't light up). After all these repairs below, I still have the same situation<br />
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Firstly the coil DLB198 was replaced with a Fuelmiser cc215 but she didn't start up. The old coil wa really hot and started to melt/leak, so it had to be replaced anyway.<br />
Next I jumped a wire from positive battery terminal to positive ignition coil incase it was a starter switch issue.. no luck.<br />
Next I took pout ignition amplifier, opened it up and replaced the IGNITION MODULE inside. I will give details beow on this operation but that's where im at essentially . With the new ignition modulethe car dosnt start, even if the ZENO diode and capacitaator inside that amp are disconnected incase they r=are dauty and earthing the system, the car dosnt start up.<br />
What does one check next?<br />
WIring in distributor?? Note that I have no spark nor injector pulse, so I was informed the ignition amplifier was the common area for that.. or is it the distributor which is the common area?
HELP<br />
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Now I will introduce the ignition module installation in the Ignition amplifier so others can benefit form my experience. The amplifier new costs $300 , but really its just a $30 ignition module that goes inside so wsave yourself the $$.... The ignition module inside this amplifier is the only real working part. There is a capacititstor and a zeno diode wich are not really useful and can be disconnected. They often earth the system and stop the car working, so disconnecting both is an option. In my case they were not the culprit.
I was hoping to add photos here of this all but some clown has changed the forums format and I don't see it as possible.
In anycase, in my ignition amplifier, the module was held down by 2 laong rivets which I had to gently drill out. You can even just use a scew and crack the head off that rivets on the module side, then hammer I the remainder of the rivet out with a smaller bolt. I used new nuts and bolts to secure the new module in, and in later model cars these modules are indeed held in place by nuts and bolts anyway. Make sure to apply the paste to the underside of the ignition module, its a heat sink poaste that comes with the ignition module.
Again, wish I could upload the photos.

regards
Peter