xk engine removal.. any pointers?
#1
xk engine removal.. any pointers?
As you may know i have been trying without any success to free a seized 4.2 xk lump. Im sure its still possible to try more techniques and invest time and patience but i have come to the conclusion that a new engine would be best in the long run. I have located a sweet running 4.2 for peanuts, so here goes!
I have most of the ancillary parts removed from the series 2 engine, also the bonnet/ hood, rad etc, front lower grille, exhaust manifolds etc etc. Now i have to say access is excellent now that these items are removed and i have an engine hoist at the ready once i undo engine mountings.
It appears to me that if i can remove the engine without the gearbox my job will be greatly simplified. I can see a ring of bolts at various points around the bellhousing and a few wires but that appears to be all i need to disconnect the engine and wrangle it free. Am i wrong or are there more hidden horrors lurking? Once again your advice is hugely appreciated. JJ.
I have most of the ancillary parts removed from the series 2 engine, also the bonnet/ hood, rad etc, front lower grille, exhaust manifolds etc etc. Now i have to say access is excellent now that these items are removed and i have an engine hoist at the ready once i undo engine mountings.
It appears to me that if i can remove the engine without the gearbox my job will be greatly simplified. I can see a ring of bolts at various points around the bellhousing and a few wires but that appears to be all i need to disconnect the engine and wrangle it free. Am i wrong or are there more hidden horrors lurking? Once again your advice is hugely appreciated. JJ.
Last edited by jjd; 11-30-2014 at 10:13 AM.
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Well, sorta. I removed the 4.2 and BW from my S3 as a unit. Space is kind of tight in the tunnel to mess with all those bolts.
Trans to engine alignment would be a task if the two were split. And proper converter engagement is critical.
Trans items to disconnect to remove it:
1. Prop shaft, four bolts as I recall. Mine were Whitworth!!
2. Shifter cable, at the left side.
3. Rear trans mount. Be careful with the order of a bunch of parts.
4. Neutral safety. reverse lamps switch wires at the left, I think.
5. Speedo transducer wires on the right, I think.
Tis heavy and a big cherry picker is needed. I did not remove my front bumper. it barely cleared.
Secure it well, it is big and heavy. I stripped most of the stuff off to reduce weight and things to hang up.
But, I didn't install it or another 4.2.
Carl
Trans to engine alignment would be a task if the two were split. And proper converter engagement is critical.
Trans items to disconnect to remove it:
1. Prop shaft, four bolts as I recall. Mine were Whitworth!!
2. Shifter cable, at the left side.
3. Rear trans mount. Be careful with the order of a bunch of parts.
4. Neutral safety. reverse lamps switch wires at the left, I think.
5. Speedo transducer wires on the right, I think.
Tis heavy and a big cherry picker is needed. I did not remove my front bumper. it barely cleared.
Secure it well, it is big and heavy. I stripped most of the stuff off to reduce weight and things to hang up.
But, I didn't install it or another 4.2.
Carl
#4
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#5
+1 on what Carl says. I took advantage of the mechanism that allows you to adjust the tilt of the unit.
#6
Ok im enlightened to say the least! So its best to basically disconnect prop and cross member that supports box then the few obvious wires and links then remove the lot i take it.
I have the front bumper removed i forgot to mention so that should help clearance when lifting it out. Also i have a new 2 1/2 tonne engine crane so that should haul it out. Is there much messing about in the cabin in relation to the shifter? Its all a bit daunting for me as i never did an engine swap on one of these before just small ford 4 cylinders.
I have the front bumper removed i forgot to mention so that should help clearance when lifting it out. Also i have a new 2 1/2 tonne engine crane so that should haul it out. Is there much messing about in the cabin in relation to the shifter? Its all a bit daunting for me as i never did an engine swap on one of these before just small ford 4 cylinders.
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jjd (12-01-2014)
#11
Certainly [engine + transmission] as a unit is the easiest way to go. I once removed a transmission only from a Series I and soon realised it would have been a lot easier to take the whole unit out which is how I've done it ever since.
Apart from the weight, you need plenty of height above and below the vehicle to lower the rear of the transmission as the engine is lifted forwards, up and out. It lifts out at a sharp angle.
Graham
Apart from the weight, you need plenty of height above and below the vehicle to lower the rear of the transmission as the engine is lifted forwards, up and out. It lifts out at a sharp angle.
Graham
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jjd (12-01-2014)
#12
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Additional tips
1. A balance bar, to connect to the lifting hooks and thence to the hoist allows the steep tip needed to clear things. I and my helper managed without one by muscle power. Both of us, it is heavy!!
2. A bottle jack to support the tail as the trans mount is removed. a trolley jack will work. but, encumbers the under the car work space.
3. I put a blanket on the roof and the bonnet went there, upside down. Safe and saved precious work space.
4. A mover's rolling pad is a great place to put the removed "lump" move about.
5. When you split trans from engine, the "cherry picker" can help a lot in the remate.
If you've done one, this one will be familiar, just bigger!!
Carl
1. A balance bar, to connect to the lifting hooks and thence to the hoist allows the steep tip needed to clear things. I and my helper managed without one by muscle power. Both of us, it is heavy!!
2. A bottle jack to support the tail as the trans mount is removed. a trolley jack will work. but, encumbers the under the car work space.
3. I put a blanket on the roof and the bonnet went there, upside down. Safe and saved precious work space.
4. A mover's rolling pad is a great place to put the removed "lump" move about.
5. When you split trans from engine, the "cherry picker" can help a lot in the remate.
If you've done one, this one will be familiar, just bigger!!
Carl
The following users liked this post:
jjd (12-01-2014)
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