I think I mentioned earlier that I had a lot of cleanup to do before I strike the first arc. I intended to get to that a few days ago, but, well, the best laid plans and all that.

I saw the flappy discs at Harbor Freight last time I was in and I seriously thought about throwing a selection in the cart just because they looked like a handy thing to have. But then the welding blanket caught my eye (which is big enough it covers the back seat. I have to think of a way to protect the headliner, and I hadn't even considered the doors!!), and then several other things distracted me and I never got back to that area. Now, with the advice of OB and weattg44 (Thanks, guys) I will in fact pick up that selection.

As I mentioned, I know there is much cleaning and prep work to do but a weather front came in, the temps dropped to 34F (2C) with a 35mph wind (gusts to 45mph) and it stayed for 2 days. Bitter doesn't even begin to describe it. These conditions make working in the garage almost intolerable. There's no heat and the doors leak, so it's only a little better than working outside. The wind is supposed to drop this afternoon, which means the temperature will also, but at least maybe the shop lights will be able to warm it up a degree or two and I can get something done later.

My Winter is getting eaten up by these unforeseen events! I only have 4 months to get everything finished on Nix, and the way the weather has been the last couple years I'll be working again in mid February! Some of my planned repairs/upgrades/modifications just might not get done this year.
(';')

 

Hi Elinor

I think you are doing a really great job in getting NIX back up and running but now you have done all the hard work, please don't hand over the fun part to anyone else (ie. The Mig Welding)

Mig Welding is as easy as falling off a log!

The Secret if there is one is all down to the preparation.

90% Preparation (must be down to bare metal)

10% Welding (not as much skill required as you may think!)

If you can't get the hang of it in an hour then you are not trying!

Even the Pro's have a test piece of steel the same thickness they are Welding to get the Voltage and Wire Speed right.

So when you pull the Trigger it sounds like 'frying bacon' or a chain saw revving up! but obviously not as loud!

Once you get that bit set right then you are good to go!

Easier than Gas or Stick Arc Welding.

Have a go at making or repairing something else, so you know whats going to happen when you pull the trigger!

I know you don't want to mess up your new floorpans, so there maybe a temptation to give the job to a neighbor but I am fully confident that with a little practice, you can do a job better yourself.

Make a Wood Burning Stove for the garage!

As for protecting the Door Cards, I would drape a Welding Blanket or anything else that won't burn over them with the windows wound down and to protect the roof lining, I would construct a makeshift Tent.

Tie Two pieces of rope, through the door windows, with the ends tied to either side of the garage walls, then drape a welding blanket over the top to form a makeshift Tent.

Then think of all the fun you'll have and all the money you'll make, when you get inudated with requests from your friends and neighbors to 'Just Weld 'This or That'

 

The wind stopped blowing through the garage today so I could actually work out there without catching frost bite.

Following advice in here, I first covered *Everything* on the inside of the car against sparks; including the headliner, door cards, B-pillars and under the dash. Getting it right took a bit of time.

To protect the headliner I suspended a cloth, slitting it and wrapping it onto the roof. It's held there by magnetic parts dishes which stick to the steel roof and hold the cover better than I expected.

Under the dash was the most difficult part because there's nothing to hang anything on as I took the underskuttle down earlier. But with the judicious use of clothes pins and tape I got it to stay. Hopefully it will stay put till I'm finished.

All the inner doors and pillars are protected. I've even covered the outside of the doors to keep from grinding steel dust into the clear coat; basically laying a drape over and securing it fore and aft. Nix is Shrouded until further notice.

Then I got husband's Makita angle grinder which I've never used before because he's been a bit possessive up to now. But I took it to town with me Monday and picked up more discs for it so now he says it's mine. It could become my favorite tool next to my chain saw.

I've got all the lumps ground off and it looks heaps better! Next I'll tackle the sill with the flappy disc but that fits a different grinder which is heavy, awkward, noisy, ugly and rude. He tried to give me that one too but I don't want it.

The Pictures: The first 5 show the outside of the car covered; the next 4 show the inside protected. Then the Makita, and the last 2 are before and after where I ground off the remains of the lacy old floor pan today.
(';')

 

Elinor, you must be every guys picture of the perfect wife. Keep up the great work it will be worth it when it is done.

Jim.

 

Thank you, Jim,
But I have at least one glaring fault in the estimation of polite society; I'm NOT a cook! I could live out of the freezer and microwave and be Completely happy.

In my view cooking is largely a colossal waste of time. Women who spend Hours Slaving over a meal, preparing it Perfectly, Presenting it in the Best possible way, and after about 10 minutes it's a Huge mess and then she gets to clean up, those women have a screw loose!

That sort of life is Not For Me! I've Never made breakfast; it's Fend for Yerself here. Lunch the same. I make ONE meal a day, supper (unless there are house guests), and anything beyond that is one's own look out,which is no hardship as I keep plenty of supplies on hand. No one ever starved to death on my watch.

I would Much rather be Outside or In The Shop doing something Real that will last for more than 10 minutes before I have to do it again in a couple hours.
(';')

 

My kind of girl, good luck with the rest of your project.

PS My freezer is always full.

Jim

 

My GF is a really great Cook but She doesn't like working on Cars.

But as She is still with me.

Do the Mathe!

 

Hehe:


If my garage door opened into the house, I'd be tempted to leave it open and let the house furnace try to heat that as well. Alas, there is a "breezeway" between it's small door and the kitchen door. It has lived up to it's name in spades the last couple of days!!!t So, the garage is frigid. I can get the jaguar in there with just a tad of room. Not as much as yours, Elinor !! Too many toys. And, with the doors closed, no room to jack up the front end. so, the starter replace is a driveway job. if it ever warms up a tad. Weatherman promises better numbers over the week end. Not his AM. Lots of frost on the pumpkin at 5:00 when coco and I went out.


Nice prep work. Decades ago, son and I decided to add a full cage to the 69 Toyota Land Cruiser soft top. Vinyl, but hardly easily convertible. but, I had a new one so we took it off. The odd little jump seats in the rear had to go as well. Welding to do. some was prefab'd but, not all. Oh, oh, no Elinor masking. Well, bar got solidly stick welded in. The windshield folded forward. Oh, oh, bits of spark and/or slag hit it. Kinda like sand rash!!!


I have a small grinder, kinda like the Makita, but more likely an HF version. I used it a lot. When I installed Ram Horn manifolds on the LT1, it took a fair amount of grinding to get valve cover clearance. And, a flat to replicate the EGR connection.
Plus a modified battery hold down and a PS pump resevoir mount. Welded them up, then ground clean to look good.


And, yup, I do have one of those real old big a.. grinder. OK in the open. Not so good in closed spaces. Old time body man's tool. Lots of uses from heavy to light grinding to even buff outs.


Philosophy:


For a soul mate, any combination of two numbers that add to 100 works.


My dear departed late wife was at best a fair cook. But, she kept us fed. She managed the household. I earned the money. On special days, I did the entre, prime rib or turkey or so. She and daughter did the trimmings. I stripped the remaining carcass and they cleaned up. But, in some manner or another she learned to make delicious tacos. Not bad for a German gal!!



That prep for welding should result in a neat tidy and sound job.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl,
It seems like a good idea to listen to those with more experience at this than I have. If some of them tell me it's not clean enough, then I'll clean some more.

Not frost on the pumpkin this morning, ICE on my car!! I kept the outside faucets trickling out onto trees and such to keep them from freezing and breaking the plastic ball valves.

I could have a bit more space in the shop if I could move that line of tool boxes just a few inches. But alas, there's another car parked there out of the weather. Hopefully it disappears in Spring. But as Nature abhors a vacuum, I'm sure other Items will take its place in short order.
(';')

 

Today seemed like a good time to start learning to use husband's MIG welder which he calls his Hot Melt Glue Gun.

He had some scraps already cut up for other things and a shard of the original floor for me to practice sticking things together.

He showed me roughly how to proceed and left me on my own. Below are pictures of the results. There are two reasons I'm posting this mess, one is so all you experienced guys can have a good belly laugh, and so that Anyone seeing it can be Supremely confident that they can do better than this!

1 and 2 were abysmal. The Iron Bird definitely flew over and dumped a load on the way by. I blew a hole (red arrow), tried to fix it and only made it worse. 3 worked a little better until I started second guessing myself and blew holes in the upright as seen by the shadows.

Then he brought me some washers and said to stick them down and then fill the holes. 4 was a complete disaster. The red arrow indicates a Huge hole that I tried to fill and only made it bigger. So I moved on to the next washer.

At 6 I was beginning to get the hang of it, stopped going around the outer edge and only fill the center. By the time I got to 7 I was pleased with my progress and thought I would try one more flat piece just to see it wasn't a fluke. The 2 left sides on 8 were done first, the 2 right sides last. Husband took a look and said, "OK, you're now the welder in the family." (An incredibly frightening thought!!)

I'm in no way ready to try this on something as important as Nix's floor but a couple more days' practice and I'll be confident enough to try. If it's terrible I'll cover it with carpet and it'll never again see the light of day.
(';')

 

You really need to clean/ sand the areas first. Vital for mig welding. Can't emphasise that enough.

Also need to create a good earth contact to the clamp and good contact between the host and washer. Clamp the pieces firmly together.

Try some fresh (or well sanded old) metal and practice getting some runs on that before trying to join two bits together. Try some thicker metal to start with then progress onto the same thickness as the bodywork. Practice and get to know the effects of wire speed and power on your mig.

Before you know it you will be the welder in the family!

 

Thank you, anjum,
I ran the power buffer over that chunk before I started welding on it. The edges are pretty pitted true, but the center was quite smooth. I learned almost immediately that I didn't have a good ground (earth) at first and had to move the clamp to a better spot.

I thought I needed to clamp things together but they were so small to begin with, and out in the center, and there was no place for the clamp to go. When I got to the washers I started tacking one spot, more to hold it down than anything else, but that also made the arc better. Unintended grounding (earth) effect I imagine.

I'll get some thicker stock as you suggest and make some straight welds on it. I Know that couple hours today does Not make me ready to do anything real. Not Even!!

I have other responsibilities tomorrow, but Friday there will be more practice.
(';')

 

Elinor:


looking pretty durn good. It helps to have a great tutor and great equipment. You clearly have both as well as being a quick study.


Welds 1-8 show clear progress. Look at the backside. that is where you will see if you have good penetration as opposed to merely deposits "bird poop".


If you have oxy/acetylene or even a Mapgas torch, application of flame to the red rust buns it off and allows better MIG. MIG is really sophisticated stick welding.


All welding is differentiated by the method of shieldng the arc/flame from oxidation.


This unexpert says you are almost ready to hit the car.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl!
The holes were Definitely good penetration! The blobs lying on top, not so much. The flat fillets show on the bottom where they got hot but didn't blow through.

I'll get more practice tomorrow on thicker stock as anjum suggests. I really don't have the confidence at this point to try it on my car.
(';')

 

Hi Elinor

Pleased to see you are having a go at MIG Welding but while you are getting your practice in the Metal needs to be really shiny and clean, or the rust will have a bad effect on the Arc while you are Welding.

It also looks like you are using a very good Pro Mig Welder, 'Miller' is a very respected make.

The first thing to do is to set the Power which should be compatible with the thickness of the metal, in other words it should be fairly high within reasonable limits but not high enough to burn through.

Which is really a matter of 'trial and error' but think that setting No3 might be a good place to start.

At this point don't try to weld anything, until the wire speed is right.

Pull the 'Trigger' and look at what is happening to the wire, as it feeds out of the welding shroud onto the steel. (ALWAYS USING THE MASK) to protect your eyes.

If the wire is 'bouncing' (or drip dripping) then the feed is too slow.

If the wire is trying to dig into the plate and bend then the feed is too fast.

Its best not to try and weld anything, just mess around on a thick piece of steel until every time the Trigger is pulled, the Arc is instantly 'buzzing like a bee'

When messing around on the Thick piece of steel, do not alter the voltage, from your trial setting of (3)

The only thing you are trying to do is get the Wire Speed right.

Now try a weld with these settings on a scrap piece of metal of about the same thickness as your floorpans.

If you are right handed, then tilt the torch over a little bit to the right and when you start Welding, move the Torch to the left!

The opposite of how you would do for 'Stick' Welding.

So you are moving the Torch to the left and leaving the Weld behind you to the right.

Your Brain will try and convince you, that you will never be able to see what you are doing but you can.

Now try it out on a piece of steel of a similar thickness to your Floor Pans.

Just do some 2 or 3 second bursts, then have a look at the Weld.

If the bead of weld is sitting too high, you need to increase the voltage and the Wire speed.

If you burn through you could be moving too slow or even staying in one place too long.

Or you may need to decrease the voltage and then re-adjust the wire speed like you did before.

Do this on a Thick piece of metal rather than a Thin piece, as all you are really after is that 'buzzing bee' sound to tell you that the Wire speed is set right.

Then try it again on a thinner piece of metal.

Keep the shroud of the Torch fairly close to the metal, so the shielding gas can do its job, or you will get lots of splattery looking dots around the weld.

No.7 looks good for a plug weld

No.3 looks very impressive for welding that plate at an angle but you need to keep the shroud in nice and close.

No.8 looks promising but you are maybe moving the torch a bit too quickly, which can make the weld look a bit stringy.

The Thicker one on No.8 shows you are getting there!

Use both hands to hold the Torch and rest on your left forearm, while you try and follow a 'chalked line'

You have probably got a lot more time to move the torch than you think you have.

As a bit of a 'Side note' you can actually move the Torch in either direction, while the 'Shroud' is slightly inclined to the Right but the 'normal way' of doing MIG is incline the Torch to the Right if you are Right Handed.

And then move the Torch to the Left while you are Welding.

Practice makes perfect, keep going you are getting there!

 

Thank you, OB,
When husband buys tools, especially major ones like this, he buys the best he can afford for the intended purpose.

At the time he bought this welder, the manufacturer was having a special connected with a class at the local distributor. He took the class just to take advantage of the special as he had been lusting after one of these for some time. The first thing he made was that cart. It's made of bed rail, some of the highest quality steel available.

As I mentioned to anjum, the center of that steel was buffed with a wire wheel until it was so shiny I could almost see myself in it. The edges are a bit rough, but I wasn't trying to weld anything out there. (What looks like rust in the center is some sort of smoke I guess.) I've ground and polished all surfaces in the car that will have any welding.

I need to stop being afraid I'm going to touch the metal with the tip. I'm sure you're right, that's why there are so many splatters, the gas can't shield the spark. The best of those welds were where I found something to rest my hands.

I had no idea one moved from right to left with the torch tilted to the right! Now I think about it though, it makes perfect sense!

I'm sure it's just a matter of more practice until I gain confidence. I had to kill several other snakes for the past 2 days so I haven't got any practice in but hopefully Monday afternoon will be a good day.

Thank you for the comments, the encouragement and the hints. I'll be pressing on.
(';')

 

Hi Elinor

When you say you are scared of touching the 'Tip' onto the Metal, that is not supposed to be able to happen even by accident, as the 'Tip' should not protrude from the end of the Shroud.

Which is making me start to wonder if you could be using the wrong 'Tips' as some 'Torches' use the 'Long Tips' while others use the 'Short Ones'

If the 'Tip' sticks out of the end of the Shroud, then that's where its all going wrong.

As the 'Tip' is supposed to be 'Inside the Shroud' so that the Wire can be immersed in a little cloud of Welding Gas.

Which makes a 'MEGA DIFFERENCE!' to not only the quality of the Weld but even as importantly the ease with which the Wire burns!

So if the 'Tip' isn't inside the Shroud, the Arc with start to splutter and the Welding will seem to be 'Jittery' and all over the place, when it really should be as easy, as icing a Cake with one of those Piping Bag 'Thingies'

No need to buy any shorter ones unless you really want to, as its easy to chop a bit off one with a hacksaw, then tidy it up with a file.

(The 'Tip' should unscrew from the 'Torch' after you've pull the Shroud off')

If that is the cause of the problem, then as soon as you put in a shorter 'Tip' you will really notice the difference and the ease with which you then can weld will really astound you!

Its hard to try and emphasise what a Massive difference this will make!
Though if you go and buy more 'Tips' its always best to take the 'Torch' along with you, so you get the right length.

And also the right Size! as for all practical purposes Mig Wire comes in Two Sizes. 0.6 and 0.8.

0.6 for the Thin stuff and 0.8 is good for general purpose and Thicker metal like 20 guage.

If you want some Metal to practice on, you can always go to the Dump and get some of the removable sides from old scrap Computers. dime a dozen!

When you are getting your Practice in, it is always a lot more fun, to actually make an item you can use, as it gives you a bit of a purpose so you put more into it.

Suggestions: A Barbecue, Sack Barrow, Outside Workbench or a Scupture made from bits and pieces.

Also if it needs to be said, while looking through your Welding Mask, concentrate your focus on the Molten Pool of Weld, almost to the exclusion of anything else. (except of course the direction in which you are going)

I'm not sure if your Welding Mask will do this, as I've not seen one quite like it but does the Visor fall down when you 'Nod your head'

As the idea is that you line up your Torch, at the point where you want to start Welding, then holding everything steady, 'Nod Your Head' so that the Visor falls down in front of your eyes.

This is where the expression 'Give it the nod' comes from, though if you want to 'push the boat out', you can get a light reactive Mask, which automatically darkens as soon as you start to Weld.

You are really doing OK and will be an expert in no time at all!

 

OK, we have a lack of communication in terms, probably because of my ignorance of the proper names.

I'm not talking about the part the wire comes out of, but the bigger part on the OUTSIDE of it all (shroud?). THAT'S what I'm concerned about touching to the metal.

In fact, while I'm thinking about it, if I'm moving from right to left, with the 'torch' tilted to the right, I'll Certainly be pushing it through molten metal! That also concerns me.

Anyway, it doesn't stick out beyond the shroud at all so that's not my problem. I'm still afraid of wrecking one of husband's favorite toys (although he's not worried at all -- Yet). I'll get over it soon I'm sure.

He has a couple of the nod helmets but when the price got down where he could justify it he had to have one of the auto-darkening units -- just because (a guy thing I'm sure). After using this I can't imagine using one of those heavy monsters they used on the farm!

I'm hoping tomorrow afternoon will be warm enough to open the garage and try again.

Thank you, OB, for the advice encouragement.
(';')

 

Hmm, info helps me as well. Is the nomenclature a bar to clarity? The tip within the shroud or the wire that is to be fed into the puddle?


Yeah, the helmet that came with the old Craftsman stick welder was of the "nod" variety. I never did well with it and cheated a lot!! Not good for the eyeballs.


My HF toy came with a dinky little hand held "shield". laughable. why I kept it is beyond logic. should toss it as detritus.


I "splurged" for a darkening HF unit. So much better!!!


I used to gather discarded bed frames for metal. Most free. Nice angle iron, very useful. And most of decent material.


I used the cover from an early micro wave oven in my early MIG efforts. Not good. I suspect t was "dirty" steel. So, combined with HF quality, lack of skill on my part, the results were lousy.


I did weld up s split on y car ramp. Not pretty, but much better. Steel and experience???


I saved some lag screws with "one way" heads. Shoot, the one way is a misnomer.
No way is the better term. So, following my "use what you got" philosophy, I welded nuts on. The MIG got a good if not pretty bond. I was able to use a few quite nicely.


Carl

 

Hi Elinor

In fact, while I'm thinking about it, if I'm moving from right to left, with the 'torch' tilted to the right, I'll Certainly be pushing it through molten metal! That also concerns me.

That's the idea!

Welding into the molten puddle, as you move the Torch from Right to Left is the way to do it.

That way you are able to keep the molten bead of metal flowing, with the head of the Torch slightly tilted over to the right.

All sorts of factors determine the angle of Tilt: Voltage/Wire Speed/Thickness of Metal/Penetration etc.

But it doesn't need to be much, just enough to get that river of molten metal flowing as you move the Torch from Right to Left.

That is why you need to look at the molten puddle of weld, (with a Welding Mask on of Course) as you put down a bead of Weld and make some slight adjustments 'on the hoof'

Moving the Torch from Right to Left, seems such an unatural thing to do, especially if you have done any Stick Welding, where more often than not you are moving from Left to Right.

But with MIG you move the Torch from Right to Left, with the Head of the Torch 'slighty tilted to the right'

The idea being that the Wire is melting itself into a pool of already melted metal.

I will qualify that by saying that you 'can' move the Torch from Left to Right but I would take a 'rain check' on that, until you get more experience and as such get to know what you are doing.

As Right to Left is the 'preferred technique' at least while you are learning.

The Shrouds will get burnt after a while and will therefore need replacing from time to time but they are not very expensive, as they are an expendable part, just make sure to keep them clear of build up and crud.

If you move the Torch from Left to Right, it needs a bit more Technique and experience, as the molten pool of metal can go cold. It only takes a second or two and that's not what you want.

As far as holding the Torch is concerned.

(assuming right handed) Your right had grips the handle with your finger on the Trigger, while your left hand is holding near where the Torch bends, between your finger and thumb

Hold the Torch very lightly with, while resting on your Forearm and try and move the Torch along with your Finger and Thumb, only doing short runs at a time, or the metal might get too hot and then burn through.

Or alternatively Cradle the neck of the Torch in the 'Crook' of your left hand and practice how you will guide the Torch, before you put your Mask on and Start Welding.