Looks really good.


In my past career, photos were a requirement. Even with a decent camera. I went through a few. White, black and glass were always a challenge.


The project before the Jaguar was a "Hot Rod of the Forties". Based on a highly modified, by me, 30 Ford A frame. I cut it in the rear and "z'd" it to get it lower.
I roughed it out and son finished welded it with skill and his big Lincoln TIG. Then, off to the sand blast emporium. so, when he brought it back to me, it had to be primed like now.


In my haste, I forgot my HF breathing protection and used a mere dust mask.
Tough stuff in a garage, even with doors open. Must've primed my throat and lungs.
Coughed most of the night. Lesson learned.


I got it done. And, when painted in black it looked just great.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl,
I just Had to check this morning, and it's STILL BLACK!
Not only that, the garage smells like fresh paint; My Favorite!

A Heavy box came today, it contained Calipers! Husband will be SO pleased when he returns.
(';')

 

We have removed the full right side floor pan of the XJ6. In doing do, we needed to ensure the seat braces remained in tact, as they form an integral part of the body structure, and we did not want to have to weld temporary braces into the car to prevent body shift. The foot well was missing the floor pan lip...it had rotted away, so we needed to fabricate that. Once that was done, we had to make some adjustments to the replacement floor pan that we got from Wolf Panels in Quebec, Canada. The new floor panel is 18 gauge steel, and while the grooved stamping was not precise to factory original, the panels were otherwise an excellent fit. Here are some shots of the panel fitted into place. We will clean up the areas it needs to be welded to, and start the long process of welding the panel in.



Rear foot well

 

Very Nice, Myke! Loads of fun, isn't it.
I knew I was fortunate my damage was only to the front, so the Wolf half-panel worked well (now that I see you have posted the name, it occurs to me I neglected to list my source; TY).

And you have a lift! I'm envious!
(';')

 

Ditto!!!


If I had a lift, my Jag's starter would be in place.


But, we are promised sun and warmth in a day or two, then, I'll crawl under.


Carl

 

The first time I crawled under Nix I noticed right away that a previous owner had run over a Blinkin' Big Rock at some time in the past and rolled the car over it, Massively denting up the floor pan the entire length of the left side of the car just inboard of the sills.

There is a dent in the front portion between the drain and the remains of the jacking point like a grapefruit hit it (but I'm sure the rock was bigger than that), a deep gouge in the steel, and the drain is tilted all wonky. In the process that person knocked off the jacking stud at the left front. (You can also see by the picture below that the car was originally Yellow [gag]).

Before the floor adventure is finished that all has to be addressed because up till this time there was no good way to raise up the car on that corner. There are marks in the undercoat where shops have put their lift pads in that spot quite correctly, but they can't be blamed when there was no proper stud.

It was raining pitchforks and hammer handles yesterday and husband was feeling energetic so he got a tiny wire wheel on my Bosch (cordless drill) and took all the undercoat off that area. Now I can see Exactly what I'm dealing with.

This was the plan: that hole is 3/8 inch ID; he had some 3/4 inch OD round stock, from which he previously turned a piece 3/4 inch long with a tang that Just fits into that hole, but has a head like the stock jacking studs.

I decided the new stud he turned can be welded to the remains of the old point rather than trying to weld an entire now part to the car. That part of the body seems to be quite strong and I don't think we'll improve anything by adding layers and there's always the danger of burning through and making things worse.

The new stud was held in place by putting a jack under it to press it firmly to the body. I wrapped the jack (except for about an inch of threads for the grounding clamp) so that splatter wouldn't ruin the ram.

That all seemed to be the simplest, easiest way to fix this. However, someone thought it would be a good idea to put some more tacks on the outer margins of the original fitting. I had hoped to avoid true overhead welding but I was overruled. I had also thought the new stud could simply be tacked to the existing structure in a couple or 3 places but that got overruled too.

As you can see by the pictures below, this thing is Not going to fall off any time soon -- although it might break again if someone runs over another Blinkin' Big Rock.
(';')

 

Slick!!


The yellow might have looked pretty good. Jaguar calls it primrose. I thought primrose was a pink?? I've a tough little plant in a planter on my front porch.


Way back, in 1957, my company furnished Chevy 150 six banger was screaming yellow. Not all that bad.


Much later we got a 71 AMC Hornet, aka Rambler six. Yellow again Kinda plain. added alloy wheels and some black vinyl striping and it looked pretty durn good.
Wifey's car, she loved it.


Then, in 2001, I was attracted to an E type in a local specialty dealer's window. Primrose and flashing wires. bonnet up to reveal a beautiful DOHC!!
Way out of our budget, Didn't even ask.


But, a nice Grosvenor brown SIII with buckskin interior. Striking. Well, it began to fester. After some dithering, it came home. In my driveway now!!


And, a few years ago, I used to see another SIII at the market. An older guy driving.
Immaculate Primrose with flashing wires. Slick, no question. Haven't seen it or hiom for quite a while....


But, yellow became a de riguer for a bunch of cars. Uniqueness gone.

Is it a common malady? My car's RF jack stud is missing as well. A bit of a gouge there also. I've not concerned myself as I usually use the trolley jack on the front cross member. The Jaguar's Jack looks unused!! well, I used it a couple of times for non car jobs.


Got lifted by the tire shop with no issues.


So, it is only a matter of fitting the Jaguar scissor jack in such a way so as not to slip.


Hmm., an exercise for the semi antique little Atlas lathe I restored!!! And, the minimalist HF MIG.


Way down the ever growing list.


Carl

 

Actually I like yellow!
I've currently own a Monte Carlo Yellow Saab classic 900 convertible.
I saw a pic of a yellow (primrose) XJC and was quite drawn to it.
Here it is
I'm planning to keep mine blue but not the same shade of blue as I quite fancy a deep blue metallic. I'm thinking of the blue they used on the XJ220 (Le Mans Blue) but need to see it.

 

I have a yellow MGBGT. MG called it Pale Primrose. I like it!

When I bought my Jaguar, it was a color called Green Sand, most people would have called it, Baby $hit Yellow. I got used to it, but after a minor fender bender, in which the left front fender was damaged. I decided to do a complete repaint and change the color to Regency Red, which is just another word for Maroon.

I am now reassembling the car, hopefully, It'll be ready to drive in May.

 

Carl:
Thank you.
I can't wear yellow; it makes red heads look Really Sick. Wearing a yellow car would have the same effect I would think.

Besides. It's just not the same when one comes around a shady corner and happens upon a Yellow cat lying in wait for an unsuspecting victim. All credibility is lost not to mention the Element of Surprise.

You can imagine what it looked like the first time I saw it, Numerous paint chips around the hood where it didn't close correctly at one time and rock chips on the front. I used up half a bottle of black nail polish fixing all those dings, some of them Quite Large (size of a dime!).

Before she's on the road again that Horrid Yellow Blotch Will be covered! Fortunately it's where it can't be seen except from the ground.

anjum:
That IS a very pretty car (at least the roof is black) and well turned out, but it's just not me.

However, if all cars were black, wouldn't that be boring! But had Nix been Yellow, she would never have come to live here.

EDIT:
Dave:
I'm sorry I didn't see your reply until just now.
I hope you're successful getting your car back on the road my May.
My self imposed deadline is April 1 as the emissions test is due April 15. I don't think I have a chance of a snowball in a furnace.
(';')

 

We don't have emission tests here and renew our tags online.

I guess it's an advantage of living in a semi rural area.

edit: Who am I kidding? We have cows living just down the road!

I live in the sticks!

 

Yellow grows on you, here is a couple of Primrose Jags that were for sale here recently.
I have had a couple of Yellow bikes, got used to them after a bit.

 

LnrB:
Nah, red heads are able to look good in anything. Late wife was a striking blonde. But, redheads always fascinated me!!


Yeah, I can see why yellow spots showing on NIX' slick black coat would look awful.


You might consider scaling down the lofty goals and thusly get Nix back on the road for a great spring and summer. Try the Calipers in situ in lieu of dropping the cage.
Although, some seem to pull this off rather rapidly..... Not I, rapid is no longer in my lexicon....


Another session or two and mine might be back on the road.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl.
There's not much I can scale down, Carl! The rear brakes simply MUST be repaired! Husband says I should at least try it without dropping the IRS. With help I should be able to do it in a week -- IF I had an uninterrupted week! Fat chance of that this time of year!

When I was taking apart the LF the other day, the inner bearing wouldn't come off the spindle. I had to cut the outer cage and then pry with a couple Wonder-bars to get the race past a *Badly* spalled spot on the underside of the spindle; so badly spalled the tire couldn't be properly aligned. I can't bring myself to put a new bearing on a spindle in that condition.

In order to change the spindle the front suspension must be dropped; in order to drop the front suspension the engine must be supported independent of the front cross member; to do that I need to find a way to ..... you get the idea.

Things that MUST be done before the car can be driven at all, let alone safely, are layer upon layer upon layer. We have so much time and money into it now that we're committed; or should be.

To quote Roger Mabry:
I think Roger's estimate is WAAAAYY short for my project, on both time and money.
(';')

 

Ugh!! Budget and old cars is a non sequitur!!!


I kept one for while during the conversion of my car. Gave it up. I was going nuts. At the time, I was working, and some of my cases included serious number crunching. I used many an EXCEL spread sheet for that.


That inner race thing has perplexed me a tad. At times, I get the idea, that it should be a firm fit and not turn at all!! Why would one want the race to spin on the spindle? That would seem to defeat the purpose of the bearing rollers and the outer race.


Now, if the seat on the spindle is so bad that the bearing's race can not sit squarely, that is a big issue.


Back in time: My T Ford used Timken roller bearings. Good stuff, no question. The inner race on the outer bearing threaded on to the spindle. No spin there.


So, is the preload on NIX's front bearings intended to seat the inner race firmly, I am not sure???


Others will opine.


Starter saga continues. Urge to hijack thread repressed!!!


Carl

 

I found the best way to deal with the rear brakes is to drop the IRS. That way, you can clean everything up, and address any issues that may arise with calipers, emergency brakes, and you can clean up your springs and replace the shocks while there. It took us 2 days to get it out, clean it up, install the parts, and get it back in. Here it is on the floor. just before we re-installed springs 3 and 4.

 

For your spindle, you do not have to drop the entire front suspension. Do the following:

1. Undo your brake caliper and hang it;
2. Undo your outer tie rod end from your steering knuckle;
3. Support the bottom control arm with a jack or jack stand;
4. Undo the upper and lower ball joints and separate them from the steering knuckle;
5. You should have the spindle and steering knuckle in your hand.

If you post a picture of the bad part of the spindle, we can look at it and see if it can be cleaned. It may be in a spot that is not going to cause issues.

 

Thanks, Guys,
I'll reply in the Rolling Stock thread since we've drifted Way far off the floor pan subject.
(';')

 

Speaking of floor pans, we are welding in the right floor pan as a Valentine's Day gift to the car! While your car is Nix...mine is Nigel.

 

Your car is a boy?! I only know of one other Xj6 with a boy's name, he's also Nigel!! What are the chances? I'm sure you aren't the same person though, not even in the same country. I bet he appreciated his gift.

I cleaned up the jacking stud yesterday. It was quite a mess after welding; so much so that the jack stand adapters wouldn't fit properly.

However, with judicious application of a cut-off wheel and a chain saw file it looks Much Better. Not only that, the adapters now fit! Bonus!
(';')