Floor pan is all welded in, epoxy primed, and then given a coat of rust paint. Once that dries, we will apply the seam sealer the top and bottom seams. Then, a little trick from my GTO tickle trunk...we will spray a pick up truck box liner into the inside floor pans to protect it from any moisture, and we will spray a mixture of diluted tar on the underside to give it the factory look.

Note what we have affectionately named "the box" which is the area between the footwell and the inner fender, along the front rocker panels. We had some rust issues in there, very common as a result of the water drain tubes. We cut out any rust and welded that up as well. Its been epoxy primed and painted inside the rocker to prevent recurrence of damage. Once that is dry, we will saturate the inside of the rocker with Rust check, using the access holes in the inner rocker sills.

 

Bed liner on the INSIDE! Husband asked me if that's where I was going to put it but I didn't know one could put in on the inside of the floor. I don't know why, it never occurred to me until he asked. Now that you mention it, Myke, I think I'll do that! Thank you!

I had planned to spray Corrosion Block into all those drains in the rockers. I *REALLY* don't want to lose those to Iron Lace.

I'm also thinking of cutting/grinding slots in the inner rear wheel wells to spray some in there and then plug the slots with 'rubber' plugs. I have one burst bubble on the RR flare and I really don't want it to grow. I don't drive it in the rain so any moisture will be only from the air.

Husband feels quite energetic today for a change, adapted the last 2 jack stands for the jacking studs. Nix is now properly supported on all 4 of her jacking points. Then he told me to go away while he removes the stands from under the cross member and does some other stuff. He'll sleep well tonight!!
(';')

 

When I restored my GTO, I had to replace the entire trunk. Like the jag, water would get inside due to design flaws, so when I restored it, I cured the rear window leak the GTO's were famous for, and just to be safe, I blew a truck bedliner into the trunk, and then painted over that with the speckle paint to give it the factory look. It worked fantastic, and my trunk will never rust from the inside out again. The issues I saw in the XJ6 were similar. Water was leaking into the floor, rotting it from the inside, not the outside. A good bedliner will coat the floor in a durable plastic, putting a protective layer between the steel of the floor, and any water that may arrive.

 

I just have to show my North American car off...sorry...

 

LNR: There should be no need to drill holes in your inner fenders to get rust protection into your rear quarter panels. Simply pull the back seat out, and it will expose factory access holes that you can use to spray corrosion protection into the rear panel recesses.

 

Myke, thank you for the Heads Up about those access points to the rear inner fenders!! I'm adding that to my list this very day!

No need to be sorry for showing off your GTO, it's a Beauty!. (My uncle used to say that stood for Gas Tires and Oil. He may have been speaking from personal experience. and then he's say, "Here come da judge, here come da judge" and laugh<shrug>.)

That trunk looks Really Good!! I was also thinking of putting a patch of bed liner just behind the front tires on the rockers where gravel takes off the paint. No one will ever see it if I'm careful but that's still in the 'I'm thinking about it' stage.
(';')

 

Passenger side floor pan is completely done. Now we are working on the drivers side. There was considerable more rust damage to that side, especially to the area around the foot board...which Ron had to completely rebuild. The center frame support for the floor pan suffered great damage as well, so lower tabs had to be built. Now this is not a high mileage car. as a matter of fact, it only has 70,000 kms on it, which is about 42,000 miles...but just from sitting for years, it has suffered internal rust damage that could not be seen from the exterior of the car. Here are some shots of some of the repairs as we prepare the drivers side to receive its new floor pan:

Center brace tabs welded in





Closer view of repaired center brace





Pillar damage repair

 

Myke, SIII might have those access holes but SII certainly doesn't!

I took the seat out today and was met by a solid wall, except for the cow bells. That wasn't a total loss though, because the seat belts never looked right to me, and then I saw how Roger Mabry had his rear belts set up and it looked Much better! So while I had the seat out anyway I changed them around to my liking.

Anyway, back to the access holes, there is a 'vent' for lack of a better word, in the very top of each rear wheel well. I could easily stick the snoozle in and soak the inner fenders with corrosion block. I was pretty sure I had enough in when it started running out the seam at the rear of the door and dripping off the lower inner fender flare just ahead of the gas tank.

Picture below:

I also ripped out the tunnel carpet today and hosed off that cola syrup that's been collecting dirt for several years. I was thinking maybe the PO's grandkids were to blame but the more I think about it, when that car was restored the PO and wife were in their early 40s; a good enough age to set a Big Gulp (32 Ounces) or Super Tanker (64 ounces) of cola on the console lid and hit it with an elbow.

It not only spilled on the passenger seat but on the carpets on Both sides of the tunnel, soaking the carpet around the seat belt anchors, impossible to clean without removing seats, the console and ripping out the carpets. No wonder no one addressed that for so long!

The sticky syrup mess is the reason No One will be allowed to have such things when she's back on the road. I'll wait for passengers to finish before hitting the road again.
(';')

 

Hi LNR:

I have attached a picture of the holes on a series III. Not sure if a series II has them. I thought they would be similar. There is an access port on the bottom of the wheel well where it meets the seat floor for wiring, and a large one above it that is taped off. I just removed the masking tape, and I can see the entire inner fender.

 

Oh, There! On the side wall!
It may very well have that but I can't get to it anyway. There's Leather glued all over that part and they did a Really good job, not like some things they glued down which I can simply pull off!

It's OK though because I'm pretty sure I got everything treated that really needed it.
(';')

 

Both floor pans are in. We have re-attached the gas pedal and the emergency brake cables. The fuel lines are being custom fabricated, so for the moment, we just have rubber hoses running so we can move the car in and out of the garage. The panels are etch primed and a coat of rust paint has been applied. All in all, not too difficult a job. Once we seam seal them, we will do the final prep for the box liner to be sprayed on the interior and put a coat of undercoating on the exterior.

 

 

WOW! What a difference with a lift, know-how capable help and proper tools!
If I could work that fast I would have been completely finished with Everything and back on the road next week!

Good Job, Myke!
(';')

 

This stuff is FUN!
I ordered it on Roger Mabry's recommendation; turns out it's a Canadian product, comes from Lethbridge, Alberta! That's just a short way North of where I grew up!!

It also came 2nd day International FedEx! What a deal!

Anyway, it's quite heavy, as in, it weights 16 pounds/50 ft. roll, which is 12 inches wide. The top is a heavy weight waffle pattern aluminum foil bonded to a sticks-to-Everything rubber backing which in turn is covered with a heavy paper.

It cuts easily with scissors while the backing paper is in place and with a razor knife from the foil side when the backing paper is stripped. It works Very easily and it sticks to Everything (as mentioned), even less than squeaky clean surfaces.

Best of all, if you get it wrong, just Jerk it up quickly and it lets go if you haven't let it set long enough to actually bond to the surface. It Really likes to stick to itself!

If you encounter a raised obstacle of some sort, it's easily cut with a razor knife.

Roger posted pictures of it in his car earlier in this thread, post #6, so you can look there as his is a much better job.

I took the back seat out earlier in search of rear fender access so I'll put this B-Quiet on all surfaces there, and take up the rear carpet and put it on the rear floor.
(';')

 

After I finished yesterday's post at 7:45pm Pacific time I went back out in the shop and spread B-Quiet until after 11. It rained today so I couldn't work, so I finished up with that and started putting the car back together CLEAN!! What a Great Feeling!! And I still have insulation left to do one door at a time as I have to take them apart for some reason.

I've got the back seat in, all the padding on the floors except for driver front because I have to be working under the dash and the insulation is quite reflective so my visibility is Really Good! I also put the back tunnel carpet down. It looks *Much* better after a bath, without all that cola syrup and the collected dirt.

In fact, after I took up the rear padding I could see the extent of the spill. There was cola syrup clear back to the rear seat mount! Someone must have spilled a Super Tanker to make that kind of mess! I may have mentioned that No One will be allowed to have drinks in the car after I get all this done.
(';')

 

if it's not impolite to ask, what do the half-pans go for?

 

If you google "Wolf Panels Canada" you will get their website. The half pans are 100 dollars for the passenger side and 105 for the drivers side (presumably to cover the welded bolts for the accelerator pedal). I am thinking those are Canadian dollars, and if they are, then that would reduce the price to about 80 dollars US, as the Canadian dollar has taken a huge plunge of late. The panels are 18 gauge steel, which makes them perfect to replace the thinner 20 gauge steel pans that the Jaguar was originally manufactured with. I highly recommend them. They are located about 20 mins from the US border at Upstate NY, so shiping to the US should be relatively quick!

 

No,Curt, I don't think it's impolite to ask such a question. How else are you gonna know? Besides. Prices could change overnight anyway.

In October of 2014, the Wolf Enterprises left (driver) side half pan listed for $135 Canadian. Husband paid $119.98 US, to which his credit card company added $9.99 US "Foreign Fee." Worth Every Penny, I say!

I agree with Myke's recommendation but I would also add this warning; the nuts for the accelerator pedal may not fit your car Exactly. They didn't fit mine; only one of the three was totally correct.

There are 3 holes in the bracket. its original shape and condition upon removal from the car shown in the first picture below. One of the 2 at the rear (Green Arrow) had to be elongated (toward the pedal) with a chain saw file so it would rotate on the other bolt and square up to correctly mate with the accelerator rod. The 3rd nut was completely useless to me, the hole shown by the red arrow in the second picture below, well out of its correct position.

I had to rebend the bracket (necessary because the Wolf 'corrugations' are not as deep as 'factory,' and the bracket was made for much deeper troughs) which then made it Completely out of line with the 3rd (side) nut. It was so late I didn't even repaint the bracket properly. Maybe later.

Also, after I rebent the bracket there was not enough space in the remains of the hole for the 1/4-20 bolt like the others had, so it got a sheet metal screw which will keep it from rotating. (I'm Sure that two such bolts will hold the pedal in place, even through the most exuberant acceleration!)

I was on another roll that night and didn't Even think of a picture until I read this post. I do get focused!

I hope this makes things more clear.
(';')

 

I got lucky...mine bolted right up...but the factory bolts wont work, as the nuts that are welded in place are coarse threaded, unlike the fine threaded original nuts. But then again...I am not doing a nut and bolt restoration, Thank God!

 

I'm glad yours worked, Myke,
I wonder if that's a difference between SII and SIII.
(';')