Yes, and more. A CNC router for small stuff. Big hefty Bridgeport style mills for larger and harder material. Two rescued from production work as the controls exhausted. Serious up date in the motor and electronic controls.


Son and I just spoke. Ancient cogged wheel belt drive "jumping" on one machine. Worn teeth, kinda like gears in a transmission that climb!!! Not good. Has blanks, machine another....


At times, one has to stop work and fix the tools. Big shops, call in the tech or ordserr a new machine... Not my son.


Shameless promotion. Look up TPM.com.


Carl

 

Sarc,
I found a similar situation when I got my car, but as it has them in the B-post there was no damage except to the fixtures (melted) and lenses themselves. In fact, while trying to remove the driver lens to change the festoon, it shattered, scattering sharp plastic shards over the leather seat!

During the original resto-mod the door was open, probably for Hours at a time, effectively cooking the fixtures. I also decided for LED replacements for their cool running, but they're at the blue end of the spectrum, and give the interior a Very Sickly greenish cast. (sigh) Back to incandescents.

I did 2 things to fix the situation:
First I put the little clips on the door switches that Jose recommends on his site (modified to my own liking) so I could work with any door open and the lights didn't come on.



I put these on all doors.


Next I taped up the festoons to avoid short circuit and painted the backs with silver paint so that half the output wasn't wasted into the pillar.





This or course requires careful aiming to get the open side of the festoons in the correct position.

The result has been a Much brighter interior of the original pleasing warm color that complements the leather and headliner rather than clashing with them.
(';')

 

I like the switch over rides. And good thinking to paint out half the bulb.

I have ordered these.... https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...42mm-car/2038/ which solve the directional problem and also come in "warm white" which I hope will be pleasing to the eye. I agree "cold blue" doesn't work inside a classic Jag.

 

Looking forward to hearing how they work for you. There are so many choices for LEDs out there, that it will be nice to hear of some that work WELL (color, brightness) for someone…

Andrew.

 

Somewhere in the past I had a set of coloured filter samples which were quite useful for changing light shades. They were small (about 3" by 1") and I think they came form some company producing lighting filters for theatres and discos.

I have no idea where they are now but if you can blag some from a company or sales outlet, they could be useful.

 

LEDS are intriguing.


1. The pillar light switch on the driver's A post quit!!! I messed with it once. Too much slop. My effort to fix it flopped. But, exerting lateral pressure on it worked for a time?? No longer. I swapped in a switch from a rear door. It worked OK, for a bit. No longer??? Abandoned for now. I've no issue with entering the car in the dark!!! Passengers get light!!!


2. I have a small flash light on my night table. Old guys get up a couple of times in a night. It is LED, a bluish light, rather pleasant and yet effective. I like it.


3. The lamp on this work table is LED. A softer light than the incandescent it replaced, OK with me.


4. I saw an episode of "Ask this old House" on my new VIZIO LED-LCD yesterday. The star master electrician was helping a home owner that converted an old church with exterior lighting. Recessed can lights up high. LEDS. "don't worry about access to replace, they will last you forever". Well, an overstatement, but surely, long enough.


5. The little lamp that mounts on my head is LED. I tried it. NEAT.


6. I've a few LEDS around the outside of the house, solar rechargables. Interesting, as at times, they work others not so much!!!


7. A decade of more ago, dear departed wifey wanted a lamp post
at the entry to the front porch. Access to power, not good. Faked it.
Installed an incandescent bulb. Painted it silver so as to reflect light, added small mirrors at the base of the lamp. And a solar recharged LED assembly. It works at times. Wifey liked it. Reminescent of the dim light of the lamp post depicted in conjunction, with "Lili Marlene....".


Two NFL games today on the "wide screen"!!! 10 AM and 1 PM!!!


Carl

 

Couple of questions on this project if I may? Is this the Wizard Cooling XJS radiator with the integrated trans cooler? I may be looking at one of these for a future SIII V12 project and wondered what mods may be involved for fitment in a sedan (or coupe) vs. an XJS application.

It also looks like the one you have came without a bung on the left side for a temp sending unit, that some people end up plugging anyway.

What efans are you using? Thanks and good luck.

 

@winstonwolf.

We ordered custom, and got rid of the temperature bung as it's in the engine block itself and decided not to put the trans cooler in the radiator because we are putting in a separate trans cooler.

i don't see any differences with the xj12 and xjs radiators they should fit right in with no problem.

 

@winstonwolf.

as @smgdata said, plus......we'll know in a few weeks whether we are right. Work and travel are currently holding up the contract.

The Efans are these ones from Summit racing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4850/overview/

I should caveat that we don't have them fitted yet, so we can't vouch that they work. The goal is to provide fellow members a cheap alternative to other eFan setups "specifically designed" for Jags, which also typically have a "special" Jaguar high price. We also don't want to have to do any major fabricating, so if these fans require that, we'll also not deem the project a success (although we will make them fit our car one way or the other to confirm if they work or not) Initial impressions are good. They look and feel the part. They also have small balance weights on the blades which we take to be a good sign of quality. They also appear to pull a whole lot of air, based on running them from a car battery and trying not to get our fingers sucked into them. When we fit to the car we will do before and after anemometer comparison measurements with the existing stock set up. We also have 2 digital temp gauges fitted (see earlier post) so we will be able to compare temps before and after.

 

Maybe a dumb question but if the xjs rad fits then don't the fans from the same fit?
May be a cheaper option from a donor car

 

they have the same fan setup.

 

Yes, a fan kit designed for an XJ-S will fit the XJ12. The issue is these kits are usually in the $400 to $500 range. The fans we bought are about half that cost. I saw a recent thread on here where a fellow member got a set of fans from an XJ40/XJ12 very cheaply and modified them to fit an XJ-S.

So the choices (in the US) would be :

1. Get used fans from "something", mod and fit (less than $100)

2. Buy one of the official fan kits, containing new fans ($400 to $500)

What we are trying to evaluate is something in between ie new fans, with warranty, but at a price point around $200

 

I was thinking of option 1.

But $200 for a new kit sounds excellent.

 

I'm pretty pleased with the result...... nice and bright, but not "blue" Also runs completely cold as well.

 

I’ve done a few headliners before so I wasn’t too concerned about trying to do the Coupe. Usually the biggest challenge is getting the biscuit out of the car. Luckily this is a breeze on a Coupe as you can bring it out of the side windows !

I decided to do something a bit different and choose grey alcantara material, kind of inspired by my DB9.

Removal :

The side trims (with the interior lights) come out first. Carefully lift up the chrome caps on either end of the rear grab handles and unscrew the 4 bolts you have just exposed. The side trim is held in place now only with the pop fastener things. There are 2 at the front, and 4 at the back (shown as “A” in the below pic). Using a pry tool, carefully release the pop fasteners trying not to pull too hard as they tend to rip out of the card, which will require repairing before reassembly, so take your time here. Once the pop fasteners are out, disconnect the wiring to the interior light and tape the wires up to avoid them shorting out.

Once you have the side trim out of the car you have to separate it into the 3 pieces as they have to be stripped and covered individually. To remove the thick seam piece from the side trim, bend back the metal tabs shown as “C” in the below pic. You can then pull these 2 pieces apart. To separate the light unit, remove the 2 screws, shown as "B" below, holding it to the side trim. Note the metal brackets that come off and their orientation.



The front rail comes out next. Unscrew the sun visors and the rear view mirror. The front rail will now come out. There are no pop fasteners for the front rail.

The rear rail comes out next. It is held in place by 5 pop fasteners, so same as before, use a pry tool and be gentle.

You will now have a pile of trim pieces lying in the garage, however, the headliner is still in the car. It is held in place by a metal lip that runs all the way around the roof. The ROM says to get strips of Velcro and attach to the headliner so you can maneuver the biscuit out of the lip, but I can’t see how you could actually do that on a headliner that’s falling down, as the Velcro just pulls the headliner off. NOTE :: The biscuit board on the Coupe is made of fiberglass. It’s obviously very old (original) so there’s going to be some collateral damage as you take it out, so it’s a good idea to get a painters sheet and cover the inside of the car while you do this. This part caused a lot of cursing, but eventually I got the biscuit out, but my prying had caused some damage around the edges which would need to be fixed before the biscuit could be reused. I used fiberglass resin then sanded it back to get the same profile as the original biscuit



Stripping off the old stuff :

So, you now have all of the parts out of the car and separated, and you’ve repaired your biscuit with fiberglass and sanded it to original size and shape. Next you have to remove all the original headliner material. The easiest way I found was to pull the headliner material off, then use a strong vacuum to pull the foam off. This is a messy job but like most things, the better you prep, the better the finished job will be.

Applying the new material :

I have a hot tub with a good strong cover on it so I use this for headliner work. I buy multiple cheap plastic dust sheets and cover the hot tub with one to begin with. I use one dust sheet per part I am gluing. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. I spray the material itself and also the part it’s going on. I leave them to tack up for about 5 minutes (time varies depending on the product you are using, and the ambient temperature). I then stick the material to the piece and wrap the edges. Note for the biscuit, you don’t need to wrap the edges, just cut them off square. This is because it has to go back into the metal lip in the car and if you wrap the edges, it will be too thick.
I bought 3 yards of this stuff in Platinum color. Foam Backed Suede Headliner Fabric 60" Width - Sold by the Yard which turned out to be just enough……. I would get 4 yards the next time just in case I needed to redo a piece.
Once it’s all dried, you get to reassemble the side trim pieces again, then throw everything back into the car, reversing the order of removal.

I used the LEDs mentioned in the previous post to avoid the issue I saw when I started the disassembly (ie burnt material due to the wrong wattage bulb in one side)

In summary, the Coupe is easy in regard to getting the biscuit out of the car, but the extra trimming needed for the side, front and back pieces makes this a long job. The fiberglass biscuit is a major weak point…. I wish there was an alternative.

The finished product…..

 

So, this weekend was the install of the Efans and the Wizard aluminum radiator.

Since bringing the car back to life we have seen some issues with keeping temps. I have a Wizard rad in my XJS and it's been great, so that was a no brainer for the Coupe, especially as the Wizard rad is cheaper than an OEM rad. Our car has the black metal fan and "rev 1" of the fan clutch unit, which was not known for its performance. The cost to replace the fan clutch was around $170. I got to thinking about whether I could use standard off the shelf Efans....... which could end up being better than the mechanical system, and a similar price of just the fan clutch alone. I gave the known options for Efans in a previous post and hypothosised there was a mid way point where you could get new fans..........

So, how did it turn out ?

Pretty well actually.

I won't do a step by step guide because the procedure is spelled out in the ROM. The only points I would make are that you don't need to crack open the A/C system (you can move the condenser to the side out of the way) and you don't need to disconnect the oil cooler. It also helps a lot of you remove the hood/bonnet.

We ran into an issue where the oil cooler is actually bolted to the bottom of the radiator. These bolts (actually screws) are accessible through the 2 plastic bungs in the lower valance. Of course these screws had never been out in 40 years, so they were not coming out now. We had to remove the lower valance and use side grips on the screws to get them out. On my XJS there was no connection holding the oil cooler to the rad, so this could either be a S2 thing or an early car thing.

Upon removing the rad we found the usual gunk between the rad and the condenser. Inspecting inside the rad using an endoscope showed the passages to be in reasonable condition at the ends, but obviously we couldn't see all of them or what they were like inside.

The radiator was a direct drop in replacement with no modifications required. We had specified the rad to have no hole for the temp sensor (ours is in the water pump housing on the front of the engine) and also we decided to go with no trans oil cooler in the rad, opting instead to mount a separate unit which we sourced from Summit racing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-331000/overview/. We mounted this just in front of the condenser. We used new hose to connect from the metal tubes that come up to the side of the engine into the cooler. The hose size is 5/16" About 8 feet was plenty.

The mechanical fan and shroud were removed from the car, which allowed us to have 1 less drive belt, and a lot more room around the front of the engine.

We bought this Efan kit from Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4850/overview/ mainly because of the price point. When the fans arrived they looked very well made and came on a nice shroud with a rubber surround to allow them to be mounted directly up to the radiator. They also had 4 mounting "legs"

I was all for making our own brackets, but @smgdata managed to workout how to use the original legs with some minor modifications. This enabled us to mount the fans on the existing 4 mounting bolts that the previous shroud was on. We had to get longer bolts than was supplied with the legs because the rad is set well back from the mounting panels where the original shroud went. You can see in one of the pictures below a close up of the long bolt and spacers we used to get the fans to be tight against the rad.





For powering the fans I ran a big fat wire directly from the battery on to the radiator top rail and fitted 2 relays up there. I also replaced the existing headlight double fuse box with a new 4 circuit blade fuse box so I could use the extra 2 fuses for the fans. The fans are wired as follows :



Basically the right hand fan comes on with the ignition. The left hand fan comes on when the temp switch closes. It is also connected to permanent live, so it can run on after the engine is shut off. I have an extra circuit connected through a switch, which I will fit into the cabin which would allow me to turn the second fan on manually if needed. This switch will also have an indicator light in it which will show when the second fan is running (regardless if it was manually turned on, or by the temp switch closing)

We haven't been on a long run yet (as we need to paint the underside of the hood before refitting it) but so far we seem to run max 195 ~200F standing still with 1 fan running. This is not hot enough to get the second fan running, so using the manual override switch we were able to drop the temps by ~7 to 10deg to less than 190F almost immediately with the second fan on.

In summary : Although not exhaustively tested yet, it would seem these "cheap" $220 Efans are a more than capable replacement for the mechanical + electric stock set up. They can be fitted relatively easily to the existing mounts with minor modifications to the supplied mounting legs. If anyone is in the market for Efans, it would be good to see if we can get another success story out there to build more confidence.

 

@sarc. has again done a wonderful job wiring up the new fan system and creating that excellent diagram.

it was pretty straightforward putting it all together.
very ingenious idea of getting the summit fans. we can now share with the rest of the Jag forums that we were able to do it with a run-of-the-mill kit online. and it works absolutely amazing.

also I don't remember signing a release that said my head could be in one of the pictures ��

 

@smgdata

Please check with your agent :-)

 

Which blades did you specify? The straight blade fans or quieter s blade? How is the noise??
Great write up btw! All good info!!

 

Never mind, i found that the link does indeed say s blade, still like to know about the noise though.