Well the good news is the Teves system is easy as pie to diagnose. There are a few people on here that are "Teves whispers" in fact. So lets start!

Remove the drivers side protective cover in the trunk and locate the ABS/Teves brain on top of the rear fender. Undo the rubber strap and pull the unit out towards the rear through the access hole. You will see a small plug with three wires I believe, you want to jump the black and pink wires and watch for the blink codes on the light on the dash. If it displays the generic "21" then we will start with some other tests as that's a bogus code.

No since you said you have a hard brake pedal, the simple stuff can be checked first, like power to the pump. Check the fuse in the passenger side fuse panel, it's a 30 amp and I think it's the last fuse on the fuse block. Of course even before this just open the hood and turn on the key, do you hear the pump energizing?

 

 

Just for understanding:

you pressed the pedal and nothing happend? As if it was disconnected from the cylinder?
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Calsjag,

As TimePilot has mentioned, the Teves ABS system is quite complex but it is possible to diagnose most issues in a pragmatic manner, particular if you run the 32 continuity diagnostic tests.

Fundamentally, the Actuation unit (I think that's what you mean when you say "master cylinder") doesn't go wrong. Yes, I guess it's possible, but I've never heard of one fail. The thing that does go wrong is the ABS valve block that is atached to it.

If you have an instantaneous loss of pedal pressure and it then goes away, it can be symptomatic of a valve jamming open with tiny debris holding the valve open.

Read up on the operation of the brake system in the workshop manual, understand fully how it works and then run the first set of diagnostic tests.

good luck

Paul

 

Hi Calsjag

Just to add to what Paul (Ptjs) was saying (who has taught me lots of stuff all about the Teves ABS)

Having microscopic pieces of grit jamming one of those Valves open, is the Number one reason, why when replacing the Calipers and or the Brake Pads

You should never ever lever the Caliper Pistons back, without having the 'Bleed Nipple' Open, or you could send microscopic particles of 'Crud' the wrong way up the System which could jam one of the Valves Open in the ABS Valve Block

Which appears to have happened in your case, just as Paul was saying, though in the event that its working again then you can count yourself extremely lucky, which is one of the reasons why you need to change the Brake Fluid on a regular basis

 

 

Hi Calsjag

The Valve Block is all part of what is called the Master Cylinder Actuator but while the Master Cylinder Part seldom gives a problem, the Valve Block on the side of it sometimes does

So that is why the Valve Block often gets referred to if or when something goes wrong with the unit as a whole