-12 - Convert from Cylinder head studs, to bolts?
#1
V12 - Convert from Cylinder head studs, to bolts?
Does anyone know of a conversion from cylinder head studs, to bolts? I am particularly interested in the long studs being replaced with bolts. I am currently in the long process of attempting to get the heads off to address what I believe are valve issues, and really don't want to go through the pain of a removal this difficult in the future! Any suggestions, or comments are appreciated!
Grant
Grant
Last edited by grantp; 08-19-2014 at 03:31 PM. Reason: missed the V in V12!
#2
Does anyone know of a conversion from cylinder head studs, to bolts? I am particularly interested in the long studs being replaced with bolts. I am currently in the long process of attempting to get the heads off to address what I believe are valve issues, and really don't want to go through the pain of a removal this difficult in the future! Any suggestions, or comments are appreciated!
Grant
Grant
#3
OK, I gotta know - why won't it work? Pull the valve train, torque new bolts before re-installing the valve train, and 'presto', no more long stud hang up on dis-assembly. Seriously though, I can't figure out why not? Can someone clarify why a bolt cannot replace a stud in this application? I have not been able to find anything yet that precludes this substitution. Help me understand before I make a grave mistake!
#4
Well first off bolts aren't as strong as studs. For two reasons.
1 studs have torsional twist as they are tightened where as a stud should not.
2 you are no longer using the full thread potential of the block.
Some of the studs sit under the intake side and need to be torqued with a crows foot.
If you're really having trouble, double nut them and pull the stud from the block. (Have friends who do this with lsx blocks)
Alternatively I have a stud removing plate that I could rent you if you're interested.
I have also gotten a head off with plastic wedges (+/- 10) and a deadblow hammer.
1 studs have torsional twist as they are tightened where as a stud should not.
2 you are no longer using the full thread potential of the block.
Some of the studs sit under the intake side and need to be torqued with a crows foot.
If you're really having trouble, double nut them and pull the stud from the block. (Have friends who do this with lsx blocks)
Alternatively I have a stud removing plate that I could rent you if you're interested.
I have also gotten a head off with plastic wedges (+/- 10) and a deadblow hammer.
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grantp (08-20-2014)
#5
Thanks calvindoesntknow. You brought back a memory bit from the past with the stud vs. Bolt for heads - I remember a friend who swore by studs in his (relatively high compression) competition Healey 3000 - went through a lot fewer head gaskets after the conversion. Maybe if it hadn't been 24 years since the heads were off this engine, and maybe if a Dealer had not strictly followed the service manual annually (replacing glycol, and adding the obligatory 2 containers of Barr's Leaks) they would be more forgiving in the removal process. In my case, with direct line of sight on a 1990 5.3L, I can get at the head nuts without a crows' foot (with camshaft carrier removed). Double nutting does not yield the studs from the block, so welding nuts onto the studs, and replacing all the long studs appears to be my recourse. Thankyou again!
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