I'm considering buying a 1975 xjs stopped for 15 years in a garage. I still have to see her. The seller claims that the machine has no rust and that the engine starts.

In addition to the various points of attention indicated in the buyer guides, which jobs might be needed to put the car back on the road, bearing in mind that the engine is already starting ? I try to make a list with a very approximate estimate costs (many jobs I can do myself):
- replacement of engine oil, transmission oil and filters ($ 300)

- replacement of spark plugs and spark plug cables ($ 300)
- air filters ($ 150)
- overhaul of the braking system with replacement of rubber hoses, brake oil, overhaul of the calipers and replacement of the pads ($ 1000)
- overhaul of the engine cooling system with radiator replacement, coolant, water pump, thermostat ($ 1500)
- replacement gasoline rubber hoses, fuel filter, check fuel pump status and fuel tank (from $ 400 to $ 2500 if fuel tank will be replaced)

I haven't read anything about the distribution chain yet. How often it should be replace? I think it should also replace the chain tensioner, correct? What amount should I charge?



Thank you a lot

Paolo

 

I would allow some cash for professional grade fuel and oil flush products as well as high quality grease, these cars have something like two dozen grease points often neglected. Diff oil aswell if you can reach in there.

Liqui-Moly makes great cleaning and additive products, but if using the strong stuff maybe look into having your injectors professionally cleaned afterward as the filter inside the injector is probably caked with resins and gunk.

Also going over resistor packs, engine plugs/ harness connections with electrical parts cleaner and a toothbrush won't hurt. Though all these things are maybe an extra $75/usd

 

Thanks VancouverXJ6.
What do you think about timing chain? It would be replaced?

 

Doubtful, those things are solid as ****, a new tensioner is like $350+ usd and a fair bit of work to get TO the part. If your going that far you might aswell rebuild other things...its a slippery slope.

Another part to consider which is critical is your fan clutch and the condition of your main fan IF its plastic...they cn rapidly fly apart at high speed, clutches are cheap easy to test to.

Generally the V12 engine itself is bulletproof, failures often trace back to faulty electrical or rubber bits. This applies to gaskets aswell you may want to look into a gasket and plug set, you'll know as soon as you redline the engine where the failed rubber is.


Smarter people than me will chime in shortly I suggest reading everything Grant and Doug say, re-read old threads on other people's restorations it'll tell you everything you need.

 

The timing chain is very durable, that won't be a worry. At that age, look at replacing everything rubber such as the brakes and fuel lines as you mentioned, but also suspension bushings and mounts, plus engine and transmission mounts. A big upgrade is polyurethane steering rack bushings, the originals will certainly be perished.

If it's original, it will have an OPUS style ignition system and those are well known failure points. Take a look at the reOPUS kit offered by various vendors

 

Yes bushings! Falls under the rubber bits category. I'm a huge fan of Superflex poly bushings, makes for an extremely tight twitchy ride but it depends on the driver most prefer the OEM Jaguar cloudlike ride. Steering rack poly bushings is a must though.

 

Hello Paolo

The car is 45 years old, hasn't been started in 15 years. Doesn't really matter what car it is - it is going to have issues to get her running/operational again.
But if you read some of the forum posts by our more experienced personal - there is the new XJS Ownership Service that we should all follow. The stuff on your list forms part of the JOS.
Another rule that has been ingrained in us new XJS owners club (myself included) is that we do things systematically, and don't just throw parts at her in the hope that that will fix the problem
The seller claims that the machine has no rust, there is a article out there (not exactly sure where on the www) that indicates where these car rust, so bring your magnet and have a good look in these areas.
Also the paint is 45 years old, most likely the paint could be really thin.
Costs - I am finding replacement parts quite economical as long as you shop around
Time - lots of it, I think I have installed, removed, reinstalled almost every part that I have attached during my re-build at least twice
I like the early XJS's compared to the later ones, suits my personality better

The chance to purchase a shedded, 1975 XJS, I would be interested
Cheers
Steve

 

A very good find in any sense of the word.

Your list is sensible, GOOD.

The rest of the advice is GOOD also.

15 years, as said, is a loooooong time.

"CLAIMS", are just that is my experience. He wants the car gone, and wants money for it, YOUR money, and all sorts of claims are made, SADLY.

Take care, leave emotion at home, it is a Business deal.

A PreHE without rust would be a RARE beast in any country. Floor panels, buttress edges, sills (whole length inner and outer), jacking points, gas tanks, boot floor, rear cradle mount beams, radiator lower support rail, A pillar where the door hinges bolt on, and the list goes on. TAKE CARE PLEASE.

BUT

GOOD CAR, and I would snap one up in less than a heartbeat if needed (age has me past that now).

One more thing

WIRING, and I mean ALL the wiring in the engine bay, it will be SAD, and reek havoc for reliability etc.

GOOD LUCK.

 

75,

in in my opinion, your estimates of oil, filters, hoses, etc. costs are a bit overboard. I did all of that when acquired my car and probably paid 1/4th or at most 1/3th of what you were quoting. Granted, there will be undoubtedly other expenses that will pop up here and there, but basic maintenance items for XJS are reasonably priced by “soon-to-be-classic” car standards. (And could be even cheap if you shop around)

Assuming you do it yourself, of course. Not asking an auto shop do it, in which case all bets are off

 

Thank you all for the advices!
I have read some guides about all the points where rust can be present and I'm scared of it. It also seems to me very difficult for a 45-year-old car to have no rust. Thanks for the advice to bring back a magnet!
The first step will be to get the machine back on the road and circulate it. Other works will be done in a second or third step.
One of the costs that I cannot quantify is the maintenance or replacement of the timing chain. How many miles is the chain to be replaced? The seller says that the car should have about 80.000 km. The timing chain, standing still for so many years, will be damaged? Will the tensioner probably not work well?

Regards
Paolo

 

Hello Paolo

Generally speaking -
timing chains do not wear out - basically only change them out for complete motor rebuilds,
timing belts do wear out - change out every 80 thousand or so (or after X years).

The 5.3 has a timing chain, so as mentioned above - I would not be concerned about it with the following exception

The are quite a few forum posts that talk about rotating the motor backwards which can cause damage to the tensioner.

So as long as you rotate the motor in the right rotation, it will not hurt,

As mentioned above - any car that has been sitting (4,6,8 or 12 cylinders), needs care when bringing back to life, to me, the timing chain does not fall under this concern

Cheers
Steve

 

Another thing to watch with these early XJS is the amount of km are on the clock. The odometer only goes to 99 999, and then goes back to 0.

I can say that my 1980 has only done 12 000km's because that is what is on the gauge, but I can't say how many times she has been clocked.

Cheers again
Steve

 

Agree with Steve.

Chains, only when the engine is apart for something else.

That Plastic tensioner, weakest part I am afraid, BUT, they give little issues unless some Wombat rotates the engine backwards, as said, then the risk of snapping it is at about 70% ish. In other words, ALWAYS rotate the engine Clockwise when looking AT the front of the engine.

Our S2 XJ12, has clocked 640000kms. OK, it leaks oil, drinks fuel, goes like stink, LOVES the Redline, and runs hour after hour at speed, Aussie bush, LONG way between drinks out here. NEVER left us stranded. Most, near ALL, the items outside the core engine have been replaced, but the engine itself is as made in the UK.

Our XJS HE has taken us twice around the Aussie coast road, which is 25000kms each time, and took us a year each time, NEVER missed a beat.

THEY ARE THAT GOOD, but barn finds are "special", and with the right TLC, are incredibly reliable cars.

If you are going to be the "main maintainer",. simple, frustrating at times, for sure, but once all that 45 years of "catch up" is done, they are as simple to maintain as any car out there. If you are planning to rely on "someone else" to do the maintaining, oh dear, I will make no further comment.

 

Pictures?

You're in good hands with THESE folks... Lucky it's not a Porsche,,, the rennlist folks will have you seeking therapy, lol

 

Thanks to everyone for the precious advices. Next week I'm going to see the car.

If I buy it, I will do the maintenance myself.

What are the engine compartment wiring that can affect the reliability of the car?

Currently I have no photos to show you, but if I buy it I will gladly send them to you!

Thanks again
Paolo

 

At that age, ALL the engine bay wiring SHOULD be replaced. A decent weeks work, or about 36 beers in my table of time.

I did all mine, 6 and 12 cyl cars.

Started at the bulkhead connector, below the RHF door hinge, and ONE wire at a time, simply went for it. That simple task transformed all the cars, and reliability was never on the discussion table, EVER.

Sounds daunting, it is NOT.

 

I went to see the car. The seller asked me do not take pictures. Here are the comments:

PRO:
- there is very little rust: only a hole as big as 3 coins at the driver's feet. Some rust before the left rear wheel.
- the engine starts
- the car is complete and seems all original (I would say it is a survivor)

CONS:
- the engine coolant reservoir is empty. (I wanted to see the color of the liquid to see if a head gasket had problems)
- the left bank of the V12 sounds bad
- the right bank of the V12 loses motor oil
- the internal carpet must be replaced because it is rot
- the interior seats have to be redone (even the rear ones)
- there are mark on the bodywork. The paint has many small points (on the whole car) and some bubbles. Does it hide rust? I believe it is completely to be repainted
- the left windscreen pillar is damaged and therefore to be replaced
- the tires are to be replaced (I think they are at least 20 years old)
- the alloy wheels are to be completely repainted
- the ignition lock must be replaced
- the chrome of the headlights and the front grille are to be redone
- rear lights have all broken supports
- the roof covering must be replaced (typical of xjs)
- the radio is missing and an ugly cap has been stuck on the dashboard
- the machine is without a license plate and without an Italian vehicle registration document and therefore has to be re-registered
- there is no history of machine maintenance.

 

Although I intended to buy the car, I could not put myself in agreements with the seller for the price.
According to the most authoritative Italian vintage cars magazine, an XJS pre HE in marching machine condition but with mechanical work to do and lack of some detail is worth $ 9000.00. This machine has no document and no license plate. In Italy everything is more difficult than in other countries. Enroll a car like that can take more than 2 years, and more than $ 2500.00. The problem is that nobody can be sure of being able to register a car without documents. There is no guarantee. It is possible to spend a lot of money to restore the car and do the paperwork to get a license plate and then throw away all the work done and not being able to register the vehicle. I wanted to offer $ 6000,00 .
The seller asks between $ 15000.00 and $ 20000.00. In my opinion it is too much money for a car that requires a lot of work and could never be registered in Italy.

 

Get the information on the car and check with the automotive authority BEFORE doing ANYTHING... I'm sure this will not be the first time that they have run into a situation like this one and there IS a way. There has to be.

I am super interested in what others will have to say. I'm sorry I cannot offer more 😔

 

Hello JayJagJay,
I contacted ALL the authorities in question. But trust me, in Italy nobody gives guarantees. I sent emails via PEC to the Police and asked for the automotive authority, but nobody can tell me with certainty if I can register a car without documents of origin. In Italy, things do NOT work as in other countries. So for all that money I don't risk buying just an old iron that I will never drive on the street.