Ok,Ill check that reading out and focus on ign amp.
It seens I'm running out of possable causes.
I know I have 12v on that thin signal wire to ecu.and 5v on wire to ats,3.6v to cts,TPS checks out,inj harness now is good.I have 12v to one side of all inject through pink and black wires.New fuel pump and filter.Car should run.
Katoh sent me some good readings on his running car,and mine check the same.
Dont understand it.
I,ll let you know what happens on ign amp.
thanks Guys

 

Mate I've basically run right out of suggestions, possibly you have two dud ECU's? maybe those resistors to the injectors? just a lot of maybes, if you need me to check anything on mine just ask, that's about as much as I can do now.

 

Have you tested the non-opening injectors with a individual 12v shot to see if they click and open?

Greg

 

I Totally understand,And appreciate the time and effort,you have actually helped me alot.
If I buy another ecu and this thing doesnt start,I will literally have a bonfire.lol
I have done basicly all I can do.Its probably something simple.
Although,I dont want to give up.At least not yet,I have to much time invested.
Ill get it eventually.
Thanks Katoh..

 

That is a very good idea.I never thought of that.
So what you mean,if I understand,is take a positive wire and touch the one side of the injector?
I know when i use testlight and touch either side of injector have 12v.So what side should I supply 12v to? the pink and black wire from main relay is energized with ign on.And since the injector is like a coil normally closed.voltage feeds through to orange wire on other side of injector.Do I supply the jolt of 12v to Orange wire on injector?Or disconnect injector and touch one side with 12v?

 

ok,I just talked to a jaguar mechanic locally.
He said to correctly check if there is a puls going to injector to do this:
using a volt meter,set it to DC 20 volts,take the black lead and put it on positive side battery.Then take red lead and plug it into one side of injector end plug,either side dont matter.Crank eng and if volt meter shows volts jumping from 0v up to 12+v up and down then injectors have pulse.
Mine do just that.I check one inj on each bank,and both injectors show the pulsing volts.
so I have pulse after all.GOOD NEWS..
SO WHY IS IT NOT STARTING?I'm going to check each injector,one at a time.
What else can keep it from starting??

 

Ok,I ohmed out cts and ats both have the same ohms 1.49 on a 2k setting but if I try ohming in 200 setting they both show open.
If I check voltage at ecu on the o/u signal wire comming from cts to ecu I get 3.6v
on ats signal wire r/u to ecu I get 5.3v at ecu.So guess that ecu is getting both of those signals.
If I retard my dist all the way I can then car starts but runs a bit ruff then dies.If I try to feather it with throttle it wants to die.
wierdest damn thing..

 

Physically blocked injectors. No fuel pressure. Maybe get them cleaned and checked.
Greg

 

I also noticed in reading this that the "coax" cable has been replaced by a standard electrical wire? I can tell you from aviation experience you cannot substitute a standard wire for a "coaxial" coaxial cable has a source wire then a shield then an outer "ground" sleeve and they all must work together for the common good of the task at hand. I don't know if it's adding to the problem but I wouldn't try to substitute a coaxial with a standard wire and expect it to perform correctly.

 

well I guess its physically possable all injectors could be pluged.I ohmed all inject and none are shorted.They ohm out ok.
I guess I can pull the inj rail,and charge it and see if some injectors spray at all.
I'll try anything at this point.
Im just wondering if since this car was sitting for a long oeriod of time.Maybe enough crap got in fuel line,small particles.that it could have plug most or all injectors.
Thanks for the suggestion Greg..

 

Yes, you may be right JT.I put the coax wire back in circuit.but I noticed as I mentioned a few post back the outer mesh(shielded mesh around inner thin wire on coax wire) isn't grounded at ecu like it shows on the schematic.And not grounded at amp either.I did ground the single black wire that runs in that same insulated loom with coax wire to the base of ign amp.
Maybe I should somehow ground shield mesh somewhere what do you think?

 

Is it the wire itself is not up to snuff? David Boger may have a spare, good used one.

 

Im sure its ok,its not cracked or brittle and when hooked to ign amp with ign on,I have 12v at ecu plug.
I posted this morn that I have injector pulse.I check it with my volt meter.read posting.
I am now going to check my injs by pulling rail with everything hooked up and see if injs might be pluged.
Greg made good point about possable pluged injs.
I'll let you know what I find in a couple hours.
Thanks for the thought

 

Taken from another Forum.....


What do you think RC or any injector cleaning shop uses? Hint, an industrial Ultrasonic cleaner! You don’t get the calibration or spray pattern but it is effective and works.

Injector Cleaning

The least expensive method I use for cleaning injectors is to go to your local drug store and pick up a dental ultrasonic cleaner under $30.00 or borrow moms jewellery ultrasonic cleaner, she will still love you. Go to Chevron and purchase a bottle of Techrolene (SP). Go by the grocery store and purchase a can of tuna, lettuce, jar of mayo and some cheap white Wonder bread. Fill the ultrasonic cleaner with the solvent to a level that will only submerge the tips of the injectors, up to the normal position of the sealing O-ring. Take a break, toast up the bread and make up a tuna sandwich. Use the cleaned out tuna can and punch four holes in the bottom to stand your injectors in. Place the can holding the injectors in the bottom of the ultrasonic cleaner; do not submerge the electrical connections. Turn the cleaner on; you can leave the injectors soaking 10 to 15 min, to soften stubborn deposits before power cycling. Pulse, cycle the injectors by connecting the injectors electrical connection to a 12-volt DC power source, less than 2 amps or even a small 9-volt transistor radio battery and cycle the power on and off. It is very important to not let the current run through the injector solenoid coil more than a short period, should be cycled on no more than a second, use an inline switch or you will over heat the coil and ruin the injector. Not required but you electrical and pluming guys can use a switching IC for cycling and a fuel pump to flow cleaner through the injectors. Cleaning time 5-8 min. If you need more details let me know!

 

That sounds slightly complicated but doable.Thanks for info..
cheaper than the alturnative.
I'll try that.If injs are truely pluged.I have never seen all inj plug at same time.

Ok,I ohmed each inj.Here is my findings.
On a scale of 200 ohms each inj ohmed about the same 2.9 average
Now on a 2K scale each one ohmed .003
is that within specs?I dont know what the specs are for this system.

 

I'm not sure what the specs are on injectors but another thought is to do what I did with mine, I put together a 9v battery with two leads one to a push switch then fitted them with two female connectors to fit the injector. I removed the whole FI system as one piece put it on the bench, blocked of one side of the fuel rail and filled it with fuel then applied 29psi of air to the other. With a plastic bottle over the injector went through and pulsed every one, by one to check. Then filled the entire rail with carb cleaner and did the same then filled with injector cleaner and did the same then filled with fresh fuel to clear everything else out and flush them.
I still have the bottle here with what came out of them and boy did some crud come out of them, cost me $5 in electrical parts, $12 for some carb cleaner and $10 for injector cleaner say $30 to clean 14 injectors and it did the job.

 

That sounds easy enough.
I went out and turned ign on an 1a inj sprayed as rail charged.
1b did not.when i cranked motor niether 1a or 1b sprayed.
If every injector is pulsing shouldnt the 1a and 1b spray when cranking?
I found out the specs on inj its 2.4 ohms mine are 2.9 Thats on a scale if 200 ohms.Im assuming thats what specs are using. all are pretty evenly ohmed.

 

ok pulled fuel rail up ,evrything still hooked up.cranked eng and a couple injs dribbled a little but the 1a injector didnt spray at all.I know its not pluged cause it sprayed earlier.so why did it not spray when eng was cranked.
Very frustrating..

 

Ok,One more test on these injectors.With fuel rail charged.If I take a positive 12v wire to one side of injector,and a neg ground wire and touch other side of injector,for just a second.will it spray?

 

If the fuel rail is charged, it must have pressure, of course it will spray if opened, please use a 9v battery instead of the car battery, just in case you overload the wiring in the injector.
If you hear a click and only have a dribble it could be either a blocked injector or lack of pressure. Try what I posted before, block off one side of the rail fill it full of fuel and bring it to 29psi with air pressure, then click em open. Plastic bottle over the injector and you can see what's happening with no mess, by the way the Jag injectors don't spray fuel it should come out like a straight jet stream, the only ones that spray are the cold start which you do not have.