Ok, in relation to fuel pump and fuel filter,they are both new.
when I turn on ign,not cranking motor,The fuel pump comes on for 3 to 4 seconds to charge fuel rail.
Ill have to have someone check and see if it is coming on while cranking eng.
Ill try the test on TPS and let you know.
Ill get a battery strap and put it on eng cradle to body and see if that helps spark.thanks for great info

 

Ok I tried the TPS test.I left the TPS pluged in,and checked voltage between yellw and red wire.Ign on,with throttle closed,( not touching it ).Im showing .12 to .17 when I slowly open throttle it gradually goes up to aprox 4.6 v I also notice when my test lead jumped across the red and green wires,I can hear injectors click.I did remove fuel pump relay for this test.
I also checked fuel pump flow,buy disconecting fuel line at fuel cooler,and turning on ign with fuel pump relay reconnected,it has good flow.

 

Sweet.

The voltage you have is TOO low, and the ECU is not reading that, as it is not designed for that low a setting.

This is where the JD really helps.

Disconnect the 2 cross rods at the capstan.

Remove the 4 nuts that hold the capstan plate, and lift it up and turn it over.

Loosen the 3 screws that hold the TPS solid, CAREFUL here please, just loosen them enough so the TPS slides with a FIRM action. Turn ON the ign again, meter attached of course, and rotate that TPS until you get 0.34v on the meter. Tighten the 3 screws, CAREFULLY, as that TPS is PLASTIC and EXPENSIVE. Check the reading, it can/will move as you tighten, so some more JD and fiddle with it until you get that 0.34v reading.

Now invert the unit and refit the 4 nuts, and cross rods. Check the readings again, as once more they can move. Laugh, this is LUCAS, then keep at it until you get what I have stated.

You are done and a GOLD Star is coming your way. Really, I jest sometimes, but if that TPS is set out of range, the rest of the system simple will not react.

Those errant wires can be sorted once its is running. With that Blue/White not connected it will be a tad rich when it runs, worry not, the main aim I think at the moment is to actually get it running.

 

great,I hope this is it Ill try this before it gets dark here and get right back to you.
thanks..

 

ok,first checked fuel pump while cranking eng pump is running.I disconnecter fuel ine at fuel cooler and it does run when eng cranks.
Now,as far as tps setting I adjusted it so it has 35 36 thats as close as i could get it.cranked eng and it didnt start but tried to.I messed with timming and probably screwed it up.so ill rest it tomarrow,with the blowing thumb off 1a again and set it at timming mark 10° btdc with dist scale at full retard position and go from there..

 

ok,I know we have been over this a few times,but I want to clarify one thing.
when I have my finger over 1A spark plug hole,and eng is cranked.as it blows my finger,I stop at that point.Should the A mark on crank pully,be lined up on 0° at that exact point?Or do you still have to turn crank pully to line up 0 on scale.
reason im asking is because,when i did this before,when my finger blew off hole i went down to check position of timming mark on scale.it was about 28 to 30 degress btdc.I had to turn it to 0°

 

The position you are trying to get the engine to is to have the piston at Top Dead Centre (TDC - the highest point up the cylinder) on cylinder A1. The scale by the crankshaft pulley is not the reference point. You are trying to be certain that piston A1 is at its highest point in the cylinder on the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke).

Placing your finger over the plug hole ensures that it is the compression stroke (if it was the exhaust your finger would not be popped out as the pressure would exit the exhaust valve. Once you know it is the compression stroke, the next step is to accurately find TDC. You cannot rely on the crankshaft pulley scale to do this.

One way to find TDC is to hold a long piece of stiff wire into the plug hole so it touches the piston top. Hold the wire as close as possible parallel to the angle of the V so it is at or near 90° to the piston top (remember the plug hole is NOT at right angles to the piston top, so the wire needs to go in at an angle to the threads). Then get someone to turn the engine by the crankshaft bolt and stop when the wire is pushed up the most. Carefully mark the point on the wire level with some fixed point, then you can find TDC again if you have to.

This may take a few turns to get 100% correct, and remember that having found the compression stroke, it will take TWO turns of the crankshaft bolt to get to the next compression stroke.

Once you have TDC, scribe a line on the crankshaft pulley so it lines up with the 0° on the scale. Providing your crankshaft pulley and its rubber vibration damper is all 100% and NOT slipping, you can then carefully rotate the engine to any desired timing position using the scale pointer by the crankshaft pulley.

Apologies if you were clear about all this, but I hope this helps.

Greg

 

Jagurnut you better get this motor going soon, frustration is starting to set into me also! lol!
to summarise a little, we have have spark, we have pulse to the injectors and the pumps pumping, filter is unblocked and we assume fuel is getting through?
I see that we are going back to timing, if you have it set on the position it can't be too far off, the motor will still run just fart and carry on a bit. I still lean towards a fuel starvation rather than an ignition trouble.
With your timing though when you put your finger over the hole on compression stoke, you will need to turn the crank twice to reach that point again, I'm sure you must realise that.
Try one other thing, just to isolate the trouble, remove injector 1a or 1b as there is a little more hose and put a plastic bottle over it, crank the motor, see if anything comes out at all, maybe just blocked injectors or a blocked fuel line. Other than that Grant has some good thoughts, Ill have to get a chance to go through the service manual on checking the throttle potentiometer to see if your readings are correct.
Good Luck

 

Great info,thanks Grant,Katoh and Greg.The igni timming is more clear now.I will set it again today as described in detail.
In regards to your theory on fuel blockage Katoh,I will try a pressure test on fuel flow to see if there is a restriction somewhere.I think im getting close on hearing this baby purr..
If it wasnt for all the great info and knowledge you guys have on this site,I would have given up by now.Thanks again.

 

Mate stick with it, Ill hear the shouting from here when it fires up.

 

Ok,well Praise God,and all your guys help,I finally got the car started,and yes I shouted very loud,my wife came running out,to see what all the shouting was.
Anyways heres what I did.I re did timming,like Grant and Greg said to do,put 1A cylinder at absolute TDC.and then checked reluctor wheel and lined up sproket tip with middle of pick up by turnning adjuster nut on side of distributor.about half way between retard and advance.Then made sure rotor in distributor was lined exactly pointing at the 1 cast into dist cap.
Then I removed air cleaners and sprayed starting fluid in each intake,and turned over eng.I put pedal all the way down and held it there while cranking eng till it finally started.It took a while but fi.ally started.
It pop a little,but idled at about 900 rpms smoked a little from under hood.It was a little slugish with throttle reponse.being cold I didnt want to rev it to much.I only let it run for about 2 minutes.since I have no water in radiator.I shut it off and waited 5 minutes and restarted it,it started right up this time.I think it was so hard to start also cause it had not run for 8 years.
so now I just need to fine tune it correct?Oh and get the rest of the wires hooked up..
Ill put water and antifreez mixture in it tomarrow and let it run longer then try and drive it.Oh one more thing I noticed the oil pressure took about 10 seconds to respond and when it did it registered about75% is that ok?
YA HOO!!
You guys,are great!!
THANKS...

 

Good on ya!
Personally I would get the wires connected and put some coolant in the raidiator, like all things with these cars there is a special way to do that as well, follow the post by Doug https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-flush-37512/ . Then fine tune.
Criceky after 8 years you probly had a a nest of huntsmans, mice, rats or whatever else could live in there, nowander it had a hard time. The oil pressure sounds normal, mine usually sits up around 5-6 mrk then drops to around 3 when it gets nice and warm
Well Done!!

 

Fair Dinkum.

ABOUT time.

Now the fun begins.

As said, that oil pressure is about the standard. Jaguar Spec is. Oh I forget the numbers, but at 3000rpm, and the rest is of NO meaning in the big scheme.

Fine tuning will be after it has run for a few hours, and undone 8 years of whatever.

 

well,I will flush radiator today.and see about,wires,it was running pretty rich.I pulled a spark plug and it was pretty carboned up.Is there a good diagram of eng wiring on the site somewhere? some of the wires to a few things have been spliced into with new wires and connectors.and not hooked to anything.
So now when I fine tune,do I turn distributor by adjuster nut,or distributor itself?I dont have distributor fastened down tight,so as I could turn it for adv or retard..if I retard it the car starts better,and doesnt back fire as much.Also more I retard timming the higher the rpms.its sitting at 1200 rpms right now idling..

 

ok cant figure wires out so, I took out both thermostats the one on left side was in good cond,I put it in pan of boiling water it opened at about 170°F the other one on right side,had some kind of gel crystals caked all over it.and it is stuck open a little and won't open any more.
I figure that both thermostats should be the same correct?
also is there a trick to opening the petcock drain on radiator?

 

Yes, both the same. Replace the faulty one, or both, but make sure it is a genuine Jaguar V12 thermostat, as these ensure the cross pipe is closed off when the thermostat opens. Also check that both have the little hole in the outer disc. On reinstalling, the thermostat MUST be placed so that this hole (sometimes comes with with a loose 'jiggle pin' in it which you should leave in place) is uppermost (ie in the 12 o clock position as you look at the front of the thermostat in its housing).

If the tap is jammed, you can just unscrew the entire thing from the rad.
Good luck, congrats so far on what you have done.
Greg

 

I have an EFI wiring schematics somewhere.

I will go looking and post back when I find it.

Whilst those stats are out I strongly suggest flushing that engine good and properly. Those crystals are more than likely dried up coolant of some sort. There will be more throughout the cooling system, and heater core, and your best efforts now, will minimise overheating later on.

 

OK, found them.

It is confusing a tad. We are down here, as you know, and got a mishmash of emission junk. Sooooo, the UK/European, AND the USA schematics, are needed to read together for our cars.

The USA chart shows teh "micro AND the Blue/White as #349 & 326 respectively. We got em, but our schematics dont show them, see now why we drink so much????.

If some more clarification is needed, just ask.

V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf

V12 EFI Schematics USA cars.pdf

 

Thanks for info Greg and Grant..I orderd two stats from Coventry west a jaguar place here in the states.I will make sure I flush it good..
I found the wires for the one micro switch on throttle capstan.They trace back to the vacuum throttle switch.But there is a vacuum hose comming off it,that is not hooked to anything,where does that go to?
Oh,one more thing,will it do any damage if I leave thermostats out temporarily.Till I get replacements.Or is that a bad thing?I thought I would drive it around a day or two with just water in it and then flush it again,and fill it with antifreez coolant.

 

Do not run the engine without thermostats. the water short-circuits and the engine will melt!

The vac line on the vac throttle switch (the thing bolted to the cabin end of the A bank inlet manifold) goes to a spigot on the end of that manifold. The idea is that if you go to Wide Open Throttle, the vac switch does something that ensures the ECU fuels up enough to prevent piston burning through too weak a mixture. The trhottle capstan switch is doing the same thing (as in belt and braces!).

You are making progress, congrats

Greg