ok,So there must be a mix of water and coolant,and thermastats ok.Is 165° stats ok or do I need a higher temp?
also,I cant find a spigot thats not being used, for vacuum switch.Can I tap into any line comming off intake with a tee connector,or does it need its own source?

 

Stats fine. Tapping in to another from manifold end is fine. 50% antifreeze and water is fine.

Greg

 

ok,how critical is it that the thermostats have the little hole with jiggler? everyone i have found has no little hole with jiggler.what is that for? maybe if stat sticks closed?? just guessing.

 

The hole is important, the jiggle pin not so much, as it is an anti-squeak thing I think. the V12 system works by closing off the radiator when the stats are closed, and closing off the cross pipe when they are open. Both these functions are critical

The little hole prevents a pressure/vapour differential building up behind the stats going into the radiator when the car is warming up. I suggest you just drill a 3 mm (1/8th inch) hole in each stat on the flat bit of the wide round metal mounting that is between the centre works and the outer sealing edge, so that when the stat is in the housing the hole is not blocked by anything and so, even when stats are closed, a tiny hole allows coolant/vapour pressure relief into the radiator. Hole uppermost, remember!

Greg

 

sounds good,I can do that.
Also,I noticed my brake fluid reseviorhas a crack on one side and leaking.Ive check parts houses and all they have is the xj6 one avail.Do you know anyone who is parting an xjs,or have one laying around I can buy?

 

so,is antifreeze with low silicates ok for eng??
anyone

 

Having " just a hole" is not entirely a good thing, the jiggle pin or small ball bearing in a housing keeps flow only going " one way" and when just a " hole" is present the forces of the pump under acceleration cause a flow through the hole (which would normally be blocked by the bearing or jiggle pin) causing the temp in that area to drop prematurely of the thermostat. Aluminum engines don 't like " fluxing" temps. Drill 1/8" holes in your thermostats get it up to temp and then punch it and watch your temp gauge move down with the acceleration. Stats with jiggle pins/ bearing traps won't flux the temp like that as they allow only flow in one direction and aid in the filling of the system esp since the stats closed while filling. buy/install stats with proper jiggle pins/ BB traps, there's a reason they are there and it's to allow flow through the hole in one direction only.

 

I would use any GOOD quality coolant for the moment, coz it is going to be flushed real soon anyway.

Not getting into a match of any sort, I have drilled the stats in my V12's forever, and have no issues. Mind you I dont watch the instruments much when low flying, so the temp gauge fluctuation may be happening, but my engines dont seem to complain. I am more concerned with correct length stats that actually CLOSE that by-pass port when open, as the Jag ones I had many, many years ago were too short. I have a paper on that, with pictures, but it is about 7mb, and for some reason wont attach here. PM your email address if you want it of course.

I run 180f stats all year round.

Being an '84, the brake fluid container is remote mounted, RIGHT?, so is the S2 XJ6. Maybe USA got different bits, dunno.

Looks like this one???.

 

Ok,so I called the place I bought the stats from,and they said both stats are 180°f.They said they where for an 84 jag xjs so hopefully they are correct.Ill check and see if they have holes with jigglers. I should have them tomarrow.And I bought 5 gal of 50/50 low silicate coolant,says its good for all metals and aluminum.
and yes Grant,that is exactly what my brake fluid reservoir looks like, it is remote,up by brake booster,on same braket.I took it apart and cleaned the damaged area good with solvent,and alcohol.Then patched the crack with some adhesive epoxy that is gas and oil resistant.Hopefully its brake fluid resistant too.
Here is my email : camcbride1986@gmail.com
thanks..

 

Ok,Is there a way to turn idle down ? car is idling at 1200 rpms.
I found two blue wires comming off the vacuum throttle switch,im asumming they go to micro switch on throttle disc top of capstan.also my micro switch has one connector broken off.can I swith it out with the kickdown micro switch on throttle cable?

 

So its running OK at last?

Idle speed adjuster is this item:
If you look under the cabin end of the B bank (US driver's side) inlet manifold you will see this item

Believe it or not, the large bolt head you see is the adjuster! turn it in once the engine is warmed up so the idle is about 650 to 700 rpm. This adjuster mechanism is called an Auxiliary Air valve (AAV). If it is working properly the car WILL idle at about 1200 RPM when cold and when warm it should slow down. They do go wrong and jam and fail to slow down the RPM, in which case the car will start to hunt between 1400 RPm and zero, up and down. If this happens do not panic, search the archives or post again! there are cheap and not so cheap remedies... Also be sure there are no other air intake leaks.

The full throttle enrichment system MUST be functioning properly. Either repair or renew the microswitch on the capstan. I am not sure what you are referring to about the wires from the vac switch, either check the wiring diagram, or can you post a photo?

Greg

 

Thanks for info and pic.I'll send pic of my wires on the vacuum throttle switch.
I'll try this adjustment today,and let you know what happens.

 

I'll use Grants term (not getting in a match of sorts) but if the AAV jams it will just stay at that idle, if it hunts you can bet you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If it idles "high" then hunts then the AAV was masking the vacuum leak problem and is "moving" as it should but then the vacuum leak takes over and it'll hunt up-down. In other words if it idles "high" till warm then starts to "hunt" up-down I'd assume the AAV is working fine and you have an vacuum leak somewhere, if it idles high and still high after warm I'd adjust the valve on the side and see if you can adjust it down. If the adjuster has little effect then you can assume the AAV is stuck. "hunting" up/down is predominately a vacuum leak where un able to adjust idle is normally a stuck AAV. There, clear as mud!

 

Great info,Thanks JT.Ill check all vacuum and the air valve.
once I get these wires all figured out and Idle,I'll be good to go..
Im going to take a couple pictures and post them in my garage.
I cant post on site for some reason.
anywas,my shop manual says,theres a throttle micro switch,with a WS wire white with slate tracer and a black wire.
also,a full throttle switch,same wires go to it.Im not sure what is what?so im posting pics like I said in my garage.
I hope this helps you to understand what I have.

Update.I found wires to micro switch on capstan(TPS).a white with slate tracer and a solid black.Now I switched the micro switches,because the one at tps capstan had a connector broke off.The one on throttle cable,has two connectors.I then hooked the white/slate wire to the side connector on micro switch and black wire to end connector on micro switch.I then tee'd vacuum from one of the vacuum nipples comming off rht hand rear of intake,to vacuum throttle switch.so should be correct.I just dont have the kick down micro switch on throttle cable hooked up.
Car starts fine and seems to be charging just under 13V on gauge.rpms are holding steady at 1500 but,if I advance dist a little,rpms go down to 1200 rpms.Should I leave it there.??
I noticed after running car for 5 min.temp gauge hasnt moved.anyone know where it hooks up on eng?

 

The temp gauge sender is on the A bank (US passenger side) front water manifold, just to the rear of the thermostat housing. The wire runs round the front of the valve cover and down the V.

Greg

 

for the timing even at 1200-1500 rpm disconnect your vacuum advance and set it around 10-11deg advanced, you should be that close you can do your final adjustments later. You temp sender is where Greg says, check your fittings and again its one of those cables put in the worse place possible, garanteed its nice and crispy as well and will be wanting repair in the near future.
I see the wiring is giving you a little drama ill post some pics of mine and maybe that will help you.


capR_zps6130f813.jpg?t=1403010747

 

Ok im a bit confused,just behind the thermostat housing on the water pipe I found a one wire sensor,it has a green/white tracer wire going to it.It heads back to rear of valve cover then crosses over vale cover and into harness,located to rear of B bank valve cover.is this it?
So coolant temp sensor up by air sensor on air cleaner intake.is just for computer temp sensing and has nothing to do with temp gauge??

 

I know on my X300 single wire temp sender is for gauge where multi wire temp sender is for ECU...the XJS gauge pack is subject to instrument failure due to delam in the circuit card behind the pack.

 

Now cant I take wire off temp sensor on eng and ground it.The gauge if it good should max out right?And if it doesnt move then gauge is bad.
Also,fuel gauge doesnt work.so I switched wires (brown/pink with light green/orange) left ground hooked up.Fuel gauge went to full.I know there is only about 6 us gal in tank.So I think fuel gauge is good.Bad sender unit..
Back to temp sender,can I connect a after market temp gaugr to sensor,temporarily?or will that not work?
Ok just grounded wire to temp sending unit and temp gauge on dash went all the way hot,so I know now its sender on eng thats bad.
so ill order one.

 

Yes, providing you are talking about the sensor on the A bank side. This has nothing to do with the ECU and runs the temp gauge on the dash only.

The ECU air temp sensor is on the B bank air intake trumpet. The sensor on the B bank thermostat housing with the plug that looks a bit like an injector plug is the coolant temp sensor for the ECU. On Lucas ignition cars at least, if this fails or the plug is pulled off the sensor, the engine will stop. This sensor has nothing to do with the dashboard gauge.

Greg