I am new to this forum. I have come across a 1985 XJS V12 coupe for $500. and seller will probably take much less. It is not running. First he said it was the distributor cap and then updated to say it was the ignition module. Also he says it leaks coolant at the rubber ring that goes into a rail. He has a new ring. It has some rust and needs paint. It is definitely a project. However, I think if he does not sell it it may go to the crusher, and that really bothers me. I would have to find a place to store it, but I would work on it as time and money permits. I do own other classics so you know how that goes. I am able to do a lot of work on the cars. I have owned an XKE many years ago and did all of my own work. I do not have a large sum of money for this XJS, but over time I can invest into it. With that much info am I crazy to buy it? I've never driven a V12 and even driving it a little might be a real blast. Any advice is appreciated as well as things to look for before purchasing it, if I do. I just do not want to see it destroyed. Thank you, George3405

 

MAAAAAATE, you can park it at my place!!!!!!.

WELCOME to the forum.

The water rail o/rings (4) are easy to fit, VERY time consumning, but easy.

Distributor cap/rotor/leads/spark plugs, about 2 days work first time around.

Ignition module, about 15 minutes, and remove that silly condensor inside the amp whilst its apart, they leak to earth, and kill the spark circuits.

GO FOR IT.

There is NOTHING hard about an '85 XJ-S, UNLESS it has been overheated, then run like hell.

 

Grant, I believe he mentioned that it has an overheating problem because of the faulty o-rings. I am thinking, like other cars with aluminum heads, that when it overheats the heads warp. Is that the problem with a V12 that has been overheated, or is there something else? Thank you, George

 

George,

There is overheating, and OVERHEATING.

Hard to pick that fine line, sadly.

The biggest issue with the HE is the valve inserts in the cylinder heads, usually #6 on the B bank, drop out. This is not usually heard or found until the engine is started again.

A very LOUD clatter is the give away.

The engines are forgiving, REALLY, but absolutely cooking the beans out of it will destroy it in a heartbeat.

No real easy/cheap way to find out either. A compression test "may" detect something, but if that valve insert is still in place (and most are) that test will prove it has compression. Whoopee.

The heads are fine, again, forgiving to that point. If it gets cooked, the heads will be deemed "soft" and unusable, so a throw away item.

I have seen some seriously HOT HE's down here, and they have survived well.

The engines hold about 20ltrs of coolant, so that would help a small amount, until its gone, but compared to other cars that barely have 6ltrs, it has a good buffer in my opinion.

Those rail seals would have had coolant running onto the exhaust manifolds, and the smoke etc created by that would have made even the dumbest driver pull over, I HOPE. It dont take much coolant to lay a smoke screen.

 

At 500.00, well worth a shot Temptation!!! good thiong it is across the USA, or....


Realism. Not at 86, should I do that again. Ten years ago... .. Yup, I 'fixed" my
XJwuzza six.


Just missed an XJs V12 in distress.... It's shift tower is in my car now!!!!


Carl

 

good find the car is worth saving unless the rust monster has been chewing on it. If he has you will end up with lots of usable parts

 

If all else fails you could part it out for 2-3 times what you paid. Offer $300 and see what happens.

 

Get a look for rust through at the floors in front and the trailing arm mounting points for the rear suspension.

 

Fear of rust might be worthy or might be overblown. THe floors and rear suspension pick up points are relatively simple while windshield posts etc can be a absolute nightmare.

I bought an early 1975 with some rust. Repairing the rust to a driver standard took me less than a day* and yes both rear mounts were in bad shape.

By driver standard I mean you could clearly see where the repairs were made and no attempt was made to hide them. (It was going on the race track and not the show circuit)

Had it been a high dollar restoration several weeks could have been used.

* repairs started after the car had been completely stripped and undercoating and body seal removed. ( which is or should be part of any racing preparation) I also worked on a rotisserie which greatly eases working. Finally I simply cut the solid pieces from a previously wrecked chassis and welded them in using careful measurements to determine alignment.

 

HEY MG , that car was sold 4 years ago??

Please look at the date of the posts you are looking at!
ron

 

You are right, I failed to notice the date. On the other hand it’s not like the rust issue has disappeared, I’ve seen more than a few Jaguars crushed because of relatively minor rust issues.
Heck, I admit throwing away a nice 1965 XKE roadster with rust in the rockers as it’s only flaw. I pulled the engine and trans and sent the rest off to the crusher.
(of course that was back in the 70’s when cars like that were $50. )

 

MG also a good point!
you can always tell when there to much money in the world, when people are trying to return to the WOMB!

they try to resurrect junk and pretend its back in time,, JUNK IS JUNK and always will be JUNK!
lottsa money is what makes them think that way, if they needed money to just barely survive , they would not waste it on JUNK!
ron