1988 Jaguar XJS Alternator - Where to Purchase in US
#1
1988 Jaguar XJS Alternator - Where to Purchase in US
Alternator needs to be replaced on my 88 XJS. Apparently they are not produced any more and my local supplier here in the US cannot locate one. Have looked at most of the posts on the forum but they are fairly old. What can people recommend as a current alternative please ? Advised that R111268A is the 80 Amp Lucas remanufactured item with V pulley and R110634A is the 115 Amp Bosch remanufactured item with serpentine pulley. I have the Lucas but fine replacing with a Bosch if no problems will be encountered. Understand some people remove the air pump and fit a new alternator there with a different belt, my preference is to keep in the original location although it looks like I need to remove the air pump to get at it. Have already tried the repair route through a company in Houston so have decided replacement is the best option if I can find one. Currently just driving locally and regularly re-charging the battery but my spousal unit is becoming frustrated with this solution.
#2
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Grant Francis (02-20-2024)
#4
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#6
I am in a different world.
BUT
That year model possibly has that stupid "load dump module". Causes more strife than I can safely say on here.
DUMP (HAHAHA, I know) that thing, and retest the system.
AND YES
The alternator comes out from the top, and YES, the air pump, (no wonder I deleted all mine) AND its bracket, needs to be taken off, AND, sometimes the A Bank Top Radiator hose also. That depends on the angle of the dangle of your tongue in cheek. One of mine, yes, the others no, dunno why.
BUT
That year model possibly has that stupid "load dump module". Causes more strife than I can safely say on here.
DUMP (HAHAHA, I know) that thing, and retest the system.
AND YES
The alternator comes out from the top, and YES, the air pump, (no wonder I deleted all mine) AND its bracket, needs to be taken off, AND, sometimes the A Bank Top Radiator hose also. That depends on the angle of the dangle of your tongue in cheek. One of mine, yes, the others no, dunno why.
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JJS- Florida (02-21-2024)
#7
Well I got all excited there and went down the load dump module rabbit hole. After taking a look I do not believe I have this fitted as shown on the attached photograph unless someone tells me otherwise. Alternator has already been to a reputable rebuilder in Houston as the initial problem was overcharging and they replaced diodes, etc. i shall try looking for new at some the suggestions here.
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#8
Nope, dont see it.
While you are waiting and/or deciding, AND based on the comment of it being a rebuild due to overcharging in a past life.
Go to the other side of the engine bay, look, and look more carefully than you have before, at the British Earth Strap Fiasco around the LH engine mount. There will be 2 braided straps, one will be engine to cradle, the 2nd will be cradle to chassis.
Mainly, braided style cables were great when NEW, sot so now, and they reek havoc. Add to that, the fact they also break very easily.
I get a new Battery Cable, eyelet to eyelet, about 14" lond. Attach it to the engine and the other end to the Chassis, ignoring that silly loop nonsense.
Then back to the Alternator. Make up an Earth cable (6mm in Aussie Speak), and run it from the alternator casing to the chassis. Lots of places nearby, your imagination will be overloaded.
AND
Tidy up those +ve wires, they look yucky, and maybe are not doing what they should.
THEN
Go to the firewall, RH side and LH side and locate the +ve posts there. Undo the nuts, DONT DROP THEM, they are a Whiteorth thread, and hard to find outside the UK and OZ. Clean all the bits and pieces, reassemble.
While you are waiting and/or deciding, AND based on the comment of it being a rebuild due to overcharging in a past life.
Go to the other side of the engine bay, look, and look more carefully than you have before, at the British Earth Strap Fiasco around the LH engine mount. There will be 2 braided straps, one will be engine to cradle, the 2nd will be cradle to chassis.
Mainly, braided style cables were great when NEW, sot so now, and they reek havoc. Add to that, the fact they also break very easily.
I get a new Battery Cable, eyelet to eyelet, about 14" lond. Attach it to the engine and the other end to the Chassis, ignoring that silly loop nonsense.
Then back to the Alternator. Make up an Earth cable (6mm in Aussie Speak), and run it from the alternator casing to the chassis. Lots of places nearby, your imagination will be overloaded.
AND
Tidy up those +ve wires, they look yucky, and maybe are not doing what they should.
THEN
Go to the firewall, RH side and LH side and locate the +ve posts there. Undo the nuts, DONT DROP THEM, they are a Whiteorth thread, and hard to find outside the UK and OZ. Clean all the bits and pieces, reassemble.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 02-22-2024 at 03:40 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
Greg in France (02-22-2024),
JJS- Florida (02-23-2024)
#9
Thats what I did with me Ferrari Bosch alternator c 2009.
Used a local shop, new bearings, new brushes, new VR. It hadn't failed, but since it is royal PITA to access, I had it done proactively when I was doing some motor work in that area. I think they had it 3-4 days.
Doug
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